The Hollows GC (27 holes, Cottage, Road & Lakes 9s)

Montpelier, VA  (just outside Richmond)

804-798-2949

1997, J.K. Timmions
Cottage/Road 9s:
Blue 5969, 67.9, 112, 70
White 5631, 66.4, 109, 70

From I-95, take 54 W into Ashland, L onto Rt 671, 2.5 mi. then L Rt 657, head on down to the fork in the road and turn R, the course is on the L.

Fees: ~$25 plus cart Wknd

Golfcourse.com Review: Three 9's. The courses feature a mixture of large and small greens. Water hazards come into play on 6 holes, and numerous bunkers have been positioned on the fairways and around the greens. In addition, young trees located throughout the course may alter shot selection.

Where To Grub: Locals say Hound's Tooth's tangy, tomato-based BBQ in Hanover is the area's best, and I have to agree they're probably right. Quaint setting, and a full plate for $7. How can it be bad when they're right across the street from a corner furniture store called "Two Frogs On A Bicycle"? OR try Bill + Ned's (?) BBQ, or the Smoky Pig in downtown Ashland isn't bad either. For dinner in historic downtown Ashland, hit the Ironhorse Restaurant (100 S Railroad Ave, 804-752-6410, www.ironhorserestaurant.com) with a great old wooden bar. My dinner companions raved about their various fish and pork preparations, but my strip steak was mediocre at best.

Best Bar Nearby, Richmond: I lived in Richmond for 2 years, so I know my way around, but it's been a little while. You'll find a suprisingly Southern city for one so close to the Mason/Dixon line. As a transplanted Yankee, I found the prevailing attitude to be, "If it don't get done today, it'll get done tomorrow."

For a great Gentlemen's club, try Paper Moon (3300 Norfolk, Downtown; 6710 Midlothian Tpke, Southside; 804-674-0790, www.papermoonclub.com) I once picked up a dancer there and took her to Vegas for the weekend. Disastrous trip, but a great story. Or Pure Pleasure (68 Labrook Cnc, Southside, 804-232-5711).

Sports bars: Glory Days (10466 Ridgefield Pkwy, West End; 6151 Harbourside Centre Lp, Southside); Champps (9202 Stony Pt Pkwy, 10 mins S of downtown); Buffalo Wild Wings (7801 W Broad West End; 1501 E Cary, Shockoe Bottom); Mulligan's (1323 Main, downtown); & Hooter's (1211 Huguenot, Southside; 2401 W Hundred Rd, Chester; 7912 W Broad).

Shockoe Bottom is the best downtown pub & grub district, although an '04 flood wiped out many former hotspots. Hit Tonic (14 N 18th St, 804-648-4300) for serious martinis and a cutting-edge wine list. Try the house-specialty drinks: Champagne & Strawberries, or a Carmel Kiss.

Where To Grub: Downtown, you gotta get to Joe's Inn. Great little unassuming Italian joint, outstanding house dressing, and try the Spaghetti ala Joe, baked with mozarella on top. Avoid the meatballs. Tobacco Company in Shockoe Bottom (12th & Cary, www.thetobaccocompany.com) is a popular upscale spot set in an open 3-story former tobacco warehouse. A little fern-bar-ish and full of Yuppies, but good food in a nice setting. Way off the beaten path is a hole-in-the-wall with great Italian: Mammazu (Spruce & Pine, Oregon Hill; check out the Southern folk-rockers Cowboy Junkies' tune "Oregon Hill"), order veal marsala and the rockfish, family-style. Strawberry Street Cafe has a great Sunday brunch, a salad bar in a bathtub, and the best Snicker's pie on the planet. VA-based regional seafood chain Awful Arthur's (101 N 18th; 7408 W Broad) brings former locals back. Try Double T's for Best Of Richmond BBQ (2907 W Cary, across from Byrd Theatre). Post last-call, hit 3rd Street Diner (218 E Main) for a taste of Richmond's freak set.

Where To Stay: If you're liquid, the historic Jefferson Hotel has been a bastion of Southern hospitality for generations, with a staircase rumored to have inspired the one in the film Gone With The Wind.

Further Distractions: Carytown is the local artists' hang, with unique shopping. Hit Carytown's Byrd Theater for $1 2nd-run movies with the 1930's interior and pipe organ still intact, and the popcorn girls wear flapper costumes. Atlanta Braves' AAA farm club is a family-friendly outing (check the home schedule at www.rbraves.com). Tour a typical Southern estate at Berkeley Plantation (Rt 5, 22 mi E of Richmond, 888-466-6018). Hollywood Cemetery has plenty of history. The Civil War Visitors Center (5th & Tredegar) starting at Tredegar Iron Works is a nice walk. Or check out nearby King's Dominion (www.kingsdominion.com).