TPC Sawgrass
Jacksonville / Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
1981, Pete Dye
TPC 6954, 73.3, 138, 72
Blue 6514, 71.5, 133, 72
White 5815, 68.2, 128, 72
'09 Greens Fees: $375 High Season; $275 June 1 - Sept 1 (plus $20 minimum forecaddy tip)
Advance tee time access is limited to guests of the Sawgrass Marriott and the World Golf Village, or the public can book within 14 days of play on the TPC website.
Directions: From I-95 going S, get off at the Butler Blvd exit and turn right, proceed for 12 miles then turn right on Route A1A, in just a little while you will see the sign for the club.
#6 Golf Magazine Top 100 You Can Play
#14 Toughest Course in America, Golf Digest 2007: "Renovated last year to make it even tougher, it's only navigable if you keep the driver in the bag to avoid cross hazards that abruptly end most fairways. Monstrous rough. The island green 17th is on your mind all day--it's a depth charge waiting to sink any round."
Fat Guy Review, TPC Sawgrass Stadium Course (2009): All I can say is, "Wow."
After years of watching even the pros struggle with Sawgrass at The Players, it definitely lived up to the billling. This is a trophy round, so bring your digital camera, your video cam, controlled cuts and draws, your best conservative course management mindset, and your sense of humor. Check your wallet and your ego at the door.
There's an obvious shift from the types of golf courses you're probably used to playing from the moment you arrive at the manned security gate on TPC Blvd. The surrounding shops and houses all have that same subtle, upper crust feeling you'll find on Hilton Head or Kiawah. And from the manicured landscaping right down to the understated brick speed bumps, every blade of Bermuda hints at the attention to detail you're about to see on the course.
The impression steps up another notch as you pull up to the MASSIVE, tastefully ostentatious $36 million Mediterranean-revival clubhouse that seems almost too big, even for a stage this grand. While the clubhouse architecture matches the Flagler-era style of many of the buildings of semi-nearby St. Augustine, the impressive lines nonetheless seem a hair out of place at the prototype Florida golf resort. Even the two-story halfway house, done in the same style, is bigger than most upscale town houses.
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After our round we took a walk around the clubhouse, and it's so well-appointed and mouse-quiet that you almost feel like you're entering off-limits areas. There are members-only locker and dining rooms (locals Furyk, Vijay, and Funk have wine lockers here), and we were afraid to even entertain a meal after the round for fear the dining room was for members only. I felt like an 8-year-old visiting an uppity aunt's house, just trying to not get yelled at or break anything. The display of clubs used by past Players champions was pretty cool, and I think they house the real President's Cup trophy here. They even have a guy whose title is "Sawgrass Story Teller" whose sole job is to give tours of the place sharing anecdotes about the clubhouse, course, tournament, and past champions. The pro shop is stylishly expansive and top notch. There's plenty of upscale attire, and [Thurston Howell underbite tone here] while there's certainly not anything as gauche as a sale rack, they had some nice lower-end stuff too. Surprisingly, I found a nice souvienir golf shirt for $45.
The metal TPC bag tags engraved with your name included in the greens fees are a nice touch. The range is what you'd expect from a course designed to host a major PGA Tour event, but they were in the process of re-building the putting green when we were there in June '09. Our forecaddy was very knowledgable about the course. As we talked with him throughout our round, we found out he was, not surprisingly, a young pro golfer who plays the Florida and Carolina mini-tours plus a few Nationwide qualifiers. His sage course management advice was simple and spot-on, and his putt-reads more accurate than most caddies I've had. But even more importantly, his invaluable forecaddying saved us from would-be frustrating hunts for our sprayed tee balls throughout a cart-path-only day.
Tip: I'd highly suggest putting a minute's thought into choosing an appropriate set of tees, and try to take your ego out of the equation for once. This is a brutal test of golf. We played from the Whites, and as semi-big-hitter high handicappers it was plenty of course from there, not to mention that even at 6,100 yards it still slopes out at 137. The "Blended" tees are an interesting option (which more courses should probably use), utilizing either the White or Blue tees on certain holes, and mixing to a 143 slope.
Tip: Don't leave anything valuable, shiny, or edible unguarded in your cart (i.e. cell phones, PDA's, rings, wallets, etc.). A cagey racoon quietly made off with our bags of chips on the 3rd and we barely ever laid eyes on him. Our forecaddy told a horror story of a coon making off with some guy's Rolex, never to be seen again.
The course is Pete Dye at his most diabolical. The short 1st looks benign enough from the tee at 360 yards, but even if you find the fairway, the fun is just starting. The elevated green is surrounded by atypical collection areas, pockmarks, sandy slopes, and sculptured swales. And you may as well get used to it, as you'll see more of the same all day.
All day our forecaddy was giving us good advice on target lines and which half of the fairway to hit for the best (and often necessary) angle to approach the greens to avoid the myriad of hazards guarding them. Unfortunately I'm under the mistaken impression that I can work the ball, so I played right into Dye's gambit. I'm not a "hit the left half of the fairway" guy; I'm a "try not to hit it O.B." guy. Naturally, my hoped-for cuts and draws came off the club as slices and hooks more often than not, which usually left me in some bunker or a nasty swale.
It's nearly unfathomable that Dye designed Sawgrass almost 3 decades ago. The par-5 11th (below) is a great example of his re-defining target golf: Off the tee in the background, aim right of the mid-fairway tree to avoid the bunkers on the left, then play your second left of the same tree to the landing area shy of the water crossing hazard, then your approach must carry water, a wrap-around bunker, and a railroad tie wall to a narrow green with pot bunkers left. Easy peasy lemon squeezy, right?
#11
Water is used somewhat sparingly as a defense relative to many Florida layouts, or at least you really have to shank one to find it alot of the time; That is, until you hit the famed closing stretch. On occasion, Pete will suddenly drag the water to the fore, such as up against the nasty underrated par-3 13th, with a bulkhead green poking out into a pond offering up tempting sucker pin placements, remiscient of Dye's trophy one-shotters at Harbourtown.
#13
The frighteningly tight bowling alley tee lanes and overhanging Spanish-mossed oak limbs you've seen at The Players on TV are more forgiving with easier angles from the shorter White tees. But even so, Dye is practically begging you to shape shots off the tee. Take the par-4 dog right 15th below, with a crescent left-to-right fairway, trees left, water near right, bunker deep right, and an overhanging limb impinging over the water off the tee from the right. Pete visually traces the line of the perfect cut for you.
#15
The numerous floral flourishes throughout the course invoke a Florida version of Augusta-in-April, but remain tasteful and stop short of being overdone.
The great thing about Pete Dye's crazy mind's eye is the creativity with which he thumbs his nose at convention. I popped up a drive on 12, then cleared a rise only to find my ball on the 45-degree slope of a dot bunker (it was too small to even call a pot bunker) which shouldn't have been there and wouldn't have been there on any other course. The resulting pull from an awkward stance left me with a short-sided flop wedge over another greenside pot bunker onto a narrow green shelf, which I promptly over-flopped straight into the bunker after two maintenance workers pulled up to watch. Then my buddy Jeff hit a booming slice on 16 up onto one of the stadium gallery hills, and arrived at a leveled area 3/4 of the way up the slope, only to find yet another bunker that shouldn't have been there. Yet there it was. Dye sticks the needle in every chance he gets at the Stadium.
Honestly, the closing stretch is even harder than it looks on TV. The second shot on the par-5 16th requires such precision to avoid the overhanging oak on the left that you have to the cajones to put it about 15 yards from the bulkhead water's edge on the right to have a clear shot at the green.
# 16
The island 17th was every bit as fun as you'd expect. Here's what it looks like from ground level (with the typical FLA summer afternoon storm blowing up behind it):
Looks shorter on TV, doesn't it? After the obligatory sacrifice to the golf-water gods, I'm whining that my still-climbing mulligan is fat and wet when our pro caddy pipes up, "Actually I think that's pretty good," almost amused. When the ball met the horizon it bounced and zipped to a stop, just 6 feet over the bulkhead and 10 feet short of a pin just 4 paces on the front. Yes, I missed the 10' mulligan birdie putt. Hey, the greens were aerated, and my nerves were shot from Pete Dye kicking my ass all day.
Our caddy remarked that the 18th reminds some vaguely of Pebble's closing hole, with water close all down the left side of the cresent-shaped bulkhead fairway.
It's similar in concept but not half as picturesque, although the new clubhouse beyond the distant green and a new stand of oaks on the right give it more visual appeal. Even so, it's a tough hole, and you can't help but let out a low whistle then you turn around and see where the pros play it from. I dead-pulled my 4-iron approach from mid-fairway for no good reason, and watched it justifiably splash down well out into the drink. At the end of the day, I accomplished my goal, which was to break 100, but just barely... unbeknowst to me at the time, my final 2-footer for double was for 99.
Don't make the mistake of dismissing TPC Sawgrass as a $400 greens fee just to make the inevitable quad on the island green. It's a unique, picturesque, and brutally testing course full of hero-shot dares from beginning to end. It's also a shrine to Pete Dye's evil genuis, and it'll leave a tortured, begrudging smile on your face all day. If you like to be challenged, the Stadium course is right up your alley. If you're the type who kicks the dog when you get home from a round where you didn't shoot your handicap, you may want to play elsewhere. Course conditions were great, and the peripheral landscaping you can't help but realize you're paying handsomely for is as much a part of the experience as Dye's crazy bunkering. Honestly, any course charging $400 really should come with a limo ride to the course, a crab cake lunch and a filet mignon dinner, your own personal caddy, and a stripper in the cart. But outside of Pebble Beach and Kiawah's Ocean Course, this might be just about the closest a public-access course can come to being "worth" those kinds of fees, but obviously only if you're liquid.
If you're seriously liquid and an inside-the-ropes wanna-be, go for the full pro experience at TPC's PGA Experiences (www.pgatourexperiences.com). Personalized golf clinics, your own caddy with your name on the back of his bib, and all the amenities you'd expect from such a package.
Golf Magazine Review, Stadium: The first stadium course is still the best. Don't make the mistake of treating the opening 15 as an appetizer to the famed closing holes; or you'll end up being the main course. From the first, this is a superb, unrelentingly punitive layout through to the famed island green 17th, named as one of Golf Magazine's 2003 "50 Coolest Places In Golf", and the 18th, a distilled Dye risk-risk par 4.
T&L Golf says don't overlook the sister Valley course ('09 Greens Fees ~$104). Almost as fun as the Stadium, but not quite as strenuous. The Valley has more undulation in the fairways than the Stadium. There are water hazards that come into play on every hole, and the greens are large. Because this facility is situated only one mile from the ocean, the wind can become a major factor. Golf Magazine was only slightly less impressed, saying "The sister Valley course is very good, but no Stadium. With repititive hole designs, and a few Mini-Me Stadium hole copies, it feels like Deja Dye. But don't dismiss it, it's well worth a visit."
When To Go: Go just after The Players Championship, around the second week in May, to experience conditions approaching what the pros just faced (assuming you can land a tee time). Sawgass is usually closed to public play for a solid 3 weeks before The Players, plus a few days after. They also typically aerate the course a few weeks after the tournament (around June 1), so expect bumpy greens throughout the month of June. High season is mid-February to mid-April, but there should be some tee times available during high summer Florida heat.
Temps average in the 60's Dec-Feb, 70s Mar-Apr & Oct-Nov, and 80s in May-Sept. April, May, and October produce the best weather, with average highs right around the 80 degree mark, but again skip any (playing) visits from mid-April to early May due to The Players. The lower summer fees do come with the caveat of regular hurricane season Florida afternoon thunderstorms, so realize that you're rolling the dice a bit on the weather during summer if you're only in the area for a day or two.
Best Bar Nearby: Cocktailing at Sawgrass Marriott's V. Kelly's, the Lobby Bar, or the poolside cabana bar named The 100th Hole, are highlights of a stay at the resort. I normally wait until Memorial Day to start ordering my summer drink of Tanqueray & tonic, but Florida in mid-May feels close enough.
V. Kelly's 
Lobby Bar 
100th Hole
Best Bar, Jacksonville: Honestly, we found nightlife to be severly lacking in both Jacksonville and Jacksonville Beach (granted, we were only there for a Monday night).
Per T&L Golf and Golf Magazine, Monkey's Uncle (10601 San Jose Blvd, 904-246-1070), which was once a hangout for PGA Tour caddies, who loved to do karaoke there. Fat Guy says skip the over-hyped Jacksonville Landing (www.jacksonvillelanding.com). This area along the St. Johns River was once a hub of Jacksonville nightlife; home to clubs, restaurants, bars, and anchored by a Hooters. But it's fallen off considerably since the economy tanked (see more below). If you do go there, hit The Landing's Twisted Martini for upscale ambiance and the Beautiful People crowd. Voted Best Martinis, Best Bar Food, and Top 3 Jax menus.
In Riverside, UrbanSpoon.com users rated Kickbacks Gastropub (910 Jackson, 904-388-9551, www.kickbacksgastropub.com) as Jacksonville's best sports bar (huge beer selection, huge menu, but stick to the bar food and sandwiches), so we checked it out. They get kudos for having 65 beers on tap and another 350 bottled beers on the menu, but due to the nearby university, the vibe is more college grunge than sports bar. Our skunk-mohawked waitress didn't seem to know a ton about the beers or sports, as she'd never heard of the Versus network when we requested the Penguins game on the set by our table. Wing Depot was rated Best Wings in Jacksonville 2009 (University Blvd N, 904-744-5959, www.wingdepotjax.com).
Jacksonville is still a military town in many ways, so it's no surprise that there are upwards of 21 Gentlemen's clubs in Jax proper per TheUltimateStripClubList.com. The general consensus of dozens of reader reviews seemed to be that despite the number of clubs, Jax is lacking in quality clubs and quality talent compared to the rest of the country. I'm not sure what the Florida regs are around Gentlmen's clubs, but there seemed to be only two types: Bikinis-only clubs, and all-nekkid clubs that don't serve alcohol. Of the nudie clubs, only the Dollhouse came highly recommended despite a $7 cover, no booze, and $5 sodas, for it's friendly vibe and "extremely accomodating" dancers. And Sinsantions got an OK-but-still-middle-of-the-road rating. Of the bikini clubs, Emperor's, Gold Club, and Wacko's got some of the best (although still semi-lukewarm) ratings.
Where To Stay: Fat Guy Recommendation- They call this area the First Coast, and I'd recommend you base any First Coast golf trip in nearby St. Augustine rather than Jacksonville. St. Augustine is the oldest city in the country, pre-dating the Pilgrim's landing at Plymouth Rock by 55 years, and it's one of those increasingly rare American cities with genuine character that hasn't been overrun with homogenized sprawl. It's got a vibe akin to Old San Juan Puerto Rico meets Nassau Bahamas meets New Orelans meets Key West. There are great restuarants, bars, and shopping, with lots of quaint little spots hidden in cobblestone alleyways, and the World Golf Village's two quality courses are just 20 minutes up the road. See Fat Guy's review on the St. Augustine/World Golf Village area for full details.
On the flip side of the coin, Jacksonville is, well... Jacksonville. Granted, we only spent one night there, and a Monday night at that, when many restaurants and nightlife spots are closed. My internet research prior to our trip had showed Jax's waterfront development The Landing to be a hotspot, so we booked a room at the nearby Omni for a reasonable rate of $165 (of course, 'til they got done with local taxes and valet parking it was $200). Turns out The Landing, not unlike similar spots such as Baltimore's Inner Harbor, has been hit pretty hard by the economic downturn. It had more vacant storefronts than open restaurants. A steakhouse named Benny's looked overpriced from a quick once-over of their menu and outdoor area, and an Italian joint called Vito's looked OK but not great.
An inquiry at the Omni front desk led us to explore the trendy nearby Riverside district instead. Riverside was fairly cool, but the redeveloped section was only a block-and-a-half long.
From there we headed for Jacksonville Beach, figuring there had to be a cool oceanfront beach bar or three there. We were surprised to realize Jax Beach is over 30 minutes from downtown on stoplight-laden Route 90, that it sports more of a blue collar feel than you might expect, the bar and restaurant district is only about 8 square blocks amid condo complexes, one of the two beachside bars was an outpost of the Joe's Crab Shack chain, and both beachside bars closed around 9PM on a weeknight. The place felt more like Ocean City Maryland in late October than a Florida beach in June. You could almost imagine tumbleweeds blowing across the road.
Per Golf Magazine, the runaway winner in the Jacksonville hotel value department is the new Holiday Inn Express Jacksonville Beach (904-435-3000, www.hiejacksonvillebeach.com). It's less than a mile from the Atlantic, only seven miles from the TPC, offers wireless Internet, flat-screen TVs, a free hot breakfast, fresh cookies at happy hour — and it's only asking $145 a night during the tournament.
For advance-booking access to the TPC courses, Sawgrass Marriot (800-457-4653) overlooks the Stadium's 13th, with pleasant rooms and two good restaurants. Per Golf Magazine '09, a week after The Players rooms plummet to $165. Or tack on Sawgrass as part of your World Golf Village and Golf Hall Of Fame vacation in St. Augustine, which also provides advance tee time access.
For other upscale area lodging options, try the Mediterranean-flavored Lodge & Club at Ponte Vedra Beach (800-243-4304) offering 24 sumptuous suites overlooking the ocean, a fitness center and access to the 2 courses at the Ponte Vedra Inn & Club down the street: the Ocean, which was to host the 1939 Ryder Cup until WWII intervened, and the Lagoon, dripping with Spanish Moss. The Lodge also has a bang-up continental restaurant, The Innlet, available to guests only. T&L Golf likes the Sheraton Vistana at World Golf Village (800-477-3340, St. Augustine).
Fat Guy Recommendation- For a better value option, stay at a B&B or a budget motel in St. Augustine (www.oldcity.com/hotel-motel-bed-and-breakfast-information.cfm), and book your Stadium course tee time through TPC's website (www.tpc.com) for 14 day advance access and slightly cheaper greens fees without the resort premiums tacked on.
If you just gotta be stumbling distance to the Hooter's at The Landing, crash at the Hyatt Regency Jacksonville or The Omni Jacksonville (www.jacksonvillelanding.com/visitor/hotels). Both run about ~$165-plus/night, and both are on the same side of the river as The Landing.
Where To Grub: Fat Guy Recommendation- A local business acquaintance took me to Clark's Fish Camp (12903 Hood Landing Rd), a kitschy backswamp joint with gators in a water pen out front, and gator on the menu. Eat on their screened-in porch with all the stuffed gators and animals, and watch swim-trunk-and-bikini-clad locals arrive by boat. A fun atmosphere, good for the whole family. Most entrees under $10?! All the fish and seafood is good, or try the gator tails. For some great SouthWestern food, hit the Moss Fire Grill in Riverside. Named after a 1901 fire started in the moss-drying operation of a nearby mattress factory that destroyed much of the city, they have tasty tequila mojitos, great handmade salsa, an outstanding SouthWestern steak sandwich, good smoked pork enchiladas, and an inexplicably high ratio of female patrons.
David Toms and Fred Funk rave about the BBQ shrimp app and the filet at Ruth's Chris Steakhouse (904-396-6200), always an upscale favorite. Rocco Mediate likes Old Siam (1716 3rd St, Neptune Beach, 904-247-7763) for Pad Thai. Local boy Jim Furyk recommends Dwight's Bistro (904-241-4496, dwightsbistro.com), a tiny eatery hidden in a Jacksonville Beach strip mall that serves memorable crab cakes with a wine list to match. Budget-minded fans of smoked meats lacquered with tangy, mustard-based sauces will find their tastes satisfied at any of the area's Bono's Pit Bar-B-Q locations (www.bonosbarbq.com). Travel Channel digs Al's Pizza as Jacksonville's best.
At the Sawgrass Marriott, Golf Magazine digs the huge pasta dishes at Cafe Italiano, the great steaks and wine list at the more formal Augustine Grill. Or try the lagoon-side Aqua Grill for great seafood and steaks, just a 2-minute drive from the resort.
Near the course, PGATour.com likes:
• Lulu's Waterfront Grille: On the Intracoastal Waterway, Lulu's is an unassuming local favorite with the menu of a classy uptown restaurant. If the view over the water doesn't do it for you here, the food will. Try the Intracoastal Scampi -- it's garlicky delicious.
• Barbara Jean's: Lulu's neighbor, Barbara Jean's is another local favorite just up the road also on the Intracoastal with the best she-crab soup you've ever had. This restaurant shares the jungle-like view of the palm-tree-lined waterway but offers more down-home style cooking than Lulu's, and they recently started selling their cookbook -- she-crab soup recipe not included.
• Sneakers: Sometimes, it's just too hard to turn down good old American food. You know what I'm talking about: Cheese fries, ranch dressing, burgers ... and, of course, wings. Sneakers wings come with a choice of a bajillion flavors; all of which are pretty tasty, but I recommend the blackened or the spicy Cajun ranch.
• Beach Diner: For a true taste of Ponte Vedra, grab a table at the Beach Diner for breakfast, lunch or dinner. This place is so popular that you sometimes can't see the beachy white-paneled walls for all the people in there. If you're in the mood for a big breakfast, go for the crab and shrimp omelet with hollandaise sauce, tomatoes and onions. Oh yeah, it's good.
Cap’s on the Water: Located on the Intracoastal Waterway, this institution offers fresh seafood in a casual outdoor environment as well as in a more formal dining room that is more intimate.
Nineteen: Overlooking the 18th green of the Players Stadium course, the TPC Sawgrass’ signature restaurant is the perfect place to cap a memorable day at one of golf’s finest addresses.
Restaurant Medure: Perfect for special occasions, this culinary institution recently reopened after a renovation. The atmosphere and food, like barbecued braised short ribs on creamy polenta, are better than ever.
Other Area Tracks To Play: Golf Magazine recommends former Players Championship host Sawgrass Country Club just across the street. An Ed Seay routing with fewer water hazards, and risk-reward holes. Or Travellin' Joe says hands down the best value in Jacksonville is Windsor Parke Golf Club (904-223-4653, www.windsorparke.com). This 1991 Arthur Hills design boasts an array of strategically placed trees, lakes and bunkers and while there may be one too many houses to please purists, the price is right: $55 weekdays for non-residents through May and $70 weekends. Another solid choice, especially if you crave a stern challenge, is The Golf Club at North Hampton (904-548-0000, www.hamptongolfclubs.com; $75-$85), a 7,171-yard, par-72 Arnold Palmer design situated in Fernandina Beach, a half-hour north of Jacksonville. Timuquana has a Donald Ross course that dates to 1923, and the Jacksonville Open was a regular stop for Hogan and Snead and Nelson. For some years in the '40s and '50s, the tournament was played at Hyde Park, a simple and enjoyable public course now co-owned by two former Tour players, Billy Maxwell and Chris Blocker. Hyde Park is thought to be a Ross course, and it is surely the course where Hogan once made an 11 on the par-3 6th. Or, local PGA Tour caddies have a regular Thursday game at Jacksonville Beach Municipal, a Links Mag fave. A recent renovation has given a fresh look to Jax Beach's municipal layout just up the coast from Ponte Vedra that offers a low-key golf experience that is a welcome respite from Sawgrass’ demands. T&L Golf likes the Golf Club at Fleming Island Plantation (7195 yards, $30-$56, www.flemingislandgolf.com) in Orange Park. Opened in 2000, this Bobby Weed design was deservedly hailed as on of Florida's best new public courses. A relatively open front turns into the woods for the back, weaving through thickets of palmetto and myrtle and strands of pine and live oak.
See also: Golf Magazine's Travel Guide To Jacksonville During The Players Championship, Amelia Island GR, and Fat Guy's review of the World Golf Village/St. Augustine.