TPC Louisiana @ Fairfield
T&L Golf, March 2004
Top 10, 2004 Golf Digest's Best New Upscale Public Courses
Play Away: Pete Dye, Cajun
by Dave Lagarde
Think Harbour Town Golf Links. Think Kiawah's Ocean course. Think TPC at Sawgrass. That's the trilogy of Pete Dye's heralded tracks that he has channeled into the TPC of Louisiana at Fairfield, a sensationally conceived, low-profile layout whose crafty design is an architectural ode to swampy southern Louisiana—albeit one without railroad ties or island greens.
When this daily-fee course opens in April—a mere fifteen minutes southwest of New Orleans's French Quarter—its presence will single-handedly elevate the stature of Crescent City golf. And at a cost of thirty million dollars, it should. Granted, three million of those dollars were spent on constructing a state-of-the-art drainage system, designed to control the lowland's water table on this 250-acre site and handle the deluge of southern Louisiana's fierce thunderstorms. But the rest went to manufacturing the secluded layout, which is bordered by canals, crafted to mirror the characteristics of the below-sea-level land, and lined with stately oaks, tupelo gums and towering cypress trees.
How good is the result? The TPC of Louisiana is already slated to host the area's PGA Tour stop in 2005.
Indeed, Dye is up to his usual tricks of illusion and deception on this par seventy-two, filling out the layout with freaky little undulations to direct shots hither and yon. He's also up to some serious length; from the tips, the course stretches to a mammoth 7,519 yards and features two par fours of almost 500 yards each and two 580-yard par fives that will put all the game's technological advances to the test. But not to worry: Four sets of tees will accommodate those who don't have a driver that carries 280 yards in their bags. Avoiding the six man-made lakes and more than thirteen acres of stern, pointy-faced bunkers—many in the form of devilish potholes requiring sideways escapes—is something different altogether.
Indeed, the bunkering here should prove harder to escape than a New Orleans jail, and that seems to be what pleases Dye the most. "It wouldn't be a golf course of mine if some players won't scream and yell about it," Dye told T+L GOLF, laughing. "But that's the idea. As an architect, you want to get into a player's head."
As usual, mission accomplished.
Greens Fees: $140-$155. Tee Times: 866-665-2872 or visit www.tpc.com
Best Bar Nearby: Assuming you're staying in The Big Easy, it's not like you can go wrong in Satan's lair. Everyone knows to head to Bourbon St. Pat O'Brien's (718 St Peter St) is famous for Hurricanes and has some great New Orleans ambiance with a nice outdoor courtyard. But I liked John's Open Door Saloon on Bourbon Street better, with live blues and the best Hurricanes (WARNING: 6 IS TOO MANY!!!). OR, per US Air Attache' magazine, hit Mid City Bowling Lanes (aka The Rock-'n-Bowl, 4133 S Carrollton Ave, New Orleans, 504-482-3133) for 18 lanes of crashing pins New-Orleans-style, with blistering live blues, and a hoppin' dance floor. Travel Channel says LaFitte's Blacksmith Shop (914 Bourbon St) is the Best Dive Bar in The Big Easy, and possibly the longest continually serving bar in the country. Take in the Old World ambience in this shack, rumored to be a hideout of the famous pirate LaFitte. They've never bothered with modern day conveniences like electric lights; nighttime brings candles as the only lighting.
Where To Grub: For grub on the company's dime, the famed Emeril's does 3 seatings per night, but reservations are hard to come by. Call months in advance if Emeril's is on your Must Eat list. Commander's Palace (1403 Washington Ave.), where Emeril perfected his Cajun touch, is one of The Big Easy's oldest grand places to eat. Great filet, awesome jumbo Shrimp apps, unbelievable desserts. Features an open kitchen with a bar inside the kitchen. A classic place to wait for a table. OR, Philly Metro Paper says it's a Big Easy tradition for upper crust families to treat their sons and daughters to a 16th birthday celebration at Galatoire's for the famous trout meuniere amandine ($16), "one of the simple joys of Creole cuisine." OR, Playboy named Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse one of the 10 Best Steakhouses in America. Owned by the same family that has Commander's Palace, Dickie's doesn't skimp on ingredients or portions. Everything they serve gets the creole touch. Here in the subterranean dining room decked out with swords and rifles, the strip steaks aren't grilled or broiled- they're slapped onto red-hot cast-iron skillets and seared to give them a delicious crust. Sip a Sazerac cocktail in the masculine bar up front, then order fried oysters, a robust Rhone wine, and a thick Porterhouse. Or try the mixed grill of andouille sausage, filet mignon, or chicken and pork tenderloin served with 2 sauces and lyonnaise potatoes on the side. A bananas Foster bread pudding with a rum-raisin creme anglaise and a snifter of Maker's Mark bourbon is the perfect capper.
OR, if you're on your own wallet and want true Cajun, try Mulate's, 201 Julia St across from the Convention Center. Great family-style cajun restaurant, try the Crawfish Etoufee. Live cajun music nightly at 19:30. For quick sandwiches, try the Home of original Mouffalotta sandwich-- foccia bread, ham, salami, and olive salad dressing at Central Grocery Co. on Decautur St. The Food Network recommends the authentic Cajun cuisine at K Paul's, but leave plenty of extra time to deal with the line to get in. Food Network and Bon Appetite Mag love the fried chicken at Willie May's Scotch House.
What To Read Before You Go: Horny? New Orleans by Ian McNulty. Self-explanatory.