T&L Golf, Jan/Feb '08
Back to the Big Easy
Before Katrina struck, New Orleans golf was finally making a name for itself. Now the city's courses are thriving anew.
From January - February 2008
by Bruce Selcraig
With all the sorrow inflicted by Hurricane Katrina, it may seem like a parody from the Onion to be writing about golf in New Orleans, but the battered city is definitely rebuilding and the game is boogying on back. At the time the storm hit, in August 2005, New Orleans was finally starting to establish itself as a golf destination. The historic downtown Audubon Park course had undergone a multimillion-dollar renovation. Pete Dye's TPC Louisiana had just hosted its first Zurich Classic, the city's PGA Tour stop. A superb David Toms course had opened, and plans were afoot to restore the Big Easy's most fabled golf landscape, City Park. Then, on one horrible day, sustained winds of more than 150 mph splintered clubhouses, cart barns and tens of thousands of trees. When the levees breached, two cherished courses drowned for weeks under fetid saltwater, and they may never return. Now, the good news. Many of the best courses were not severely damaged and have reopened to even more appreciative audiences. And New Orleans remains a complex but, ahem, intoxicating city, built upon world-famous jazz and jumpin' zydeco, sublime food and barely licit delights.
Orientation
Wedged between the Mississippi River and Lake Pontchartrain, New Orleans is flat and swampy. Some of the area's courses are squishy for days after downpours, so be sure to call ahead. The region's prime golf season is October through May, when daytime highs range from the low sixties to the mid-eighties. Although several of the finest courses are private, most allow reciprocal play or can be booked through Big Easy Golf (www.bigeasygolf.com). To make the most of the city, stay in or near the French Quarter. That means driving an hour or more to outlying courses, but you can pass the time by listening to WWOZ-FM (90.7), the marvelous jazz, zydeco and blues station.
Where to Play
Just across the Mississippi is the stately TPC Louisiana. This monument to earth-moving lies among languid wetlands and gnarly cypress trees (although far fewer since Katrina). It's also wondrously walkable. Initially, some Tour players grumbled about what they considered to be too-similar holes and tiny, unfair pot bunkers, but some careful tweaking during the course's ten-month closure after the storm smoothed out the rough edges.
The previous site of the Zurich Classic, English Turn Golf & Country Club, is an exacting Jack Nicklaus layout. Its mature oaks and plantation-style elegance survived Katrina quite nicely. Tiered greens, forced carries, water on every hole and a relentless, tournament-deciding final hole—471 yards into the wind—create all the drama you need.
Now for your road trip. Across the narrow, twenty-four-mile-long Lake Pontchartrain Bridge, head toward Hammond on Interstate 55. At Springfield, you'll find Carter Plantation, a David Toms design that has joined the state's impressive chain of environmentally sensitive courses, called the Audubon Trail. The layout, which can be played on foot, reveals itself with wide fairways cut from forests of tall, spindly pines, ghoulish cypresses and leafy gums. On your way back, stop in the town of Akers and treat yourself to a meal at Middendorf's, a revered down-home seafood shrine (see "Where to Eat").
Two club pros and a waiter in the French Quarter told me not to miss Money Hill Golf and Country Club, in Abita Springs. Named for pirate treasure believed to be buried on the grounds, it's a private Ron Garl design built on a seven-thousand-acre, red-clay estate that once housed a tung-oil factory. The Goodyear family, the estate's longtime owners, have created wildlife sanctuaries on the course. You should have little trouble getting off the tees—the fairways are generous—but more than eighty bunkers, plush rough and long carries over water, including at the 198-yard par-three fourth, keep you alert.
In a category all its own, Audubon Park Golf Course, an 1898 urban landmark operated by the Audubon Nature Institute, is not to be missed. The course, which occupies eighty-one acres off St. Charles Avenue, survived the hurricane because, like the French Quarter, it sits on high land known as "the sliver by the river." A $6 million renovation in 2002 has turned it into a 4,200-yard, par-sixty-two delight. Laugh not; this is serious fun. Twelve par threes, four par fours and two par fives make this honest, oak-lined layout a singular experience. Think three-hour rounds, smooth greens, an engaging Glaswegian who works in the pro shop, and a renowned zoo next door.
Alas, another New Orleans classic, Eastover Country Club, hasn't fared so well. Once a portrait, many hoped, of golf's future, this racially integrated thirty-six-hole club, which hosted fifteen state championships, experienced some of the hurricane's worst flooding. In late October, after struggling for months to keep one of its nines open for play, Eastover closed for good. "It was a great place," said Jeff Cohen, founder of Big Easy Golf and a member of the club, "and it was very disappointing to see it go."
Where to Stay
For an immersion into the city, it's hard to top the stone-cool International House, set in a redone 1906 Beaux-Arts bank building just blocks from the French Quarter. You're greeted by jazz in the lobby, and each of the 117 rooms features an iPod dock and vintage photos of jazz musicians. Another fine option is the Quarter's opulent Hotel Monteleone, a favorite of writers including Hemingway, Faulkner and Richard Ford and one of only three hotels in the country to be designated a national literary landmark.
Where to Eat
In this holy city of gastronomy, you can only scratch the surface on a short visit. That said, Mandina's, a beloved Italian-Creole place on Canal Street, has built a cult following for its trout amandine and turtle soup. Family-owned since 1918, genteel Arnaud's, on Bienville Street, specializes in fresh seafood and alligator sausage served against the aural backdrop of Dixieland. Other all-stars include Galatoire's, for classic creole; Herbsaint, for a contemporary and worldly take on classic New Orleans flavors; and Serio's Po-Boys & Deli on St. Charles, whose third-generation owners recently won a Food Network "throw down" against Bobby Flay. On the drive back from Carter Plantation, Middendorf's is a chowhound's find: an authentic Depression-era landmark beside Lake Maurepas offering shrimp remoulade and peach-bread pudding, as well as fried catfish that can make grown men weep.
Other Activities
Above all else, indigenous live music is what gives the city its pulse. The 500–600 block of Frenchmen Street churns with jazz, blues, zydeco and Brazilian music at venues such as the Spotted Cat, d.b.a. and the Blue Nile; Snug Harbor stands out for American jazz. Should you be interested in seeing the storm damage, Gray Line offers a three-hour Hurricane Katrina tour. On a lighter note, the innovative Audubon Park Zoo has more than thirteen hundred animals and a 1930s-era Louisiana-swamp exhibit with white alligators and a re-created Cajun village.
Authentic New Orleans: Street Life
RESTAURANTS
Tally-Ho 400 Chartres St.; 504/566-7071; breakfast for two $15.
K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St.; 504/524-7394; dinner for two $110.
"K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, which is a lot more civil these days, now that Paul Prudhomme isn't the celebrity chef du jour. Skip his signature blackened fish, which I always thought was a misconceived gimmick, and try the Cajun meat loaf, which manages to be comforting and spicy at the same time (the true New Orleans mix)."
Antoine's 713 St. Louis St.; 504/581-4422; dinner for two $120.
"Take St. Louis Street to Antoine's, founded in 1840. Bernard Guste, the fifth generation of his family to run this Creole shrine, has changed almost nothing, thank heaven. For my next birthday I plan to eat there with a few friends, begin with oysters Rockefeller (which they invented and still make without spinach), and then have the trout amandine. Antoine's has been called a tourist trap, but to get the full experience, it helps to book a specific waiter—ask a local for advice. Over the years my favorites kept dying on me, so I now have latched onto the youngest one, a third-generation server named Charles."
Alpine 620 Chartres St.; 504/523-3005; breakfast for two $15.
Café du Monde 800 Decatur St.; 504/525-4544; beignets and coffee for two $6.
Irene's Cuisine 539 St. Philip St.; 504/529-8811; dinner for two $60.
BARS AND CLUBS
Napoleon House 500 Chartres St.; 504/524-9752.
Maspero's 440 Chartres St.; 504/524-8990.
Keuffer's Bar 540 Chartres St.; 504/523-8705.
Preservation Hall 726 St. Peter St.; 504/522-2841.
Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro 626 Frenchmen St.; 504/949-0696.
SHOPS
Crescent City Books 204 Chartres St.; 504/524-4997.
Civil War Store 212 Chartres St.; 504/522-3328.
Whisnant Galleries 222 Chartres St.; 504/524-9766.
Faulkner House Books 624 Pirate's Alley; 504/524-2940.
Librairie Book Shop 823 Chartres St.; 504/525-4837.
HOTELS
Chateau Hotel 1001 Chartres St.; 800/828-1822, fax 504/525-2989; doubles from $109.
Soniat House 1133 Chartres St.; 800/544-8808, fax 504/522-7208; doubles from $195.
Zane Lamprey's Drinking Made Easy Guide To New Orleans (2010):
What drinking show would be complete without a visit to one of the greatest drinking cities in the United States? New Orleans, or “The Big Easy” as it’s often known, with its French and Creole influences, is the largest city in Louisiana and one of the top tourist destinations in the United States. Known for the renowned French Quarter with its notorious nightlife on Bourbon Street, it’s also home to world famous annual events like Mardi Gras, a two week long celebration with parades, balls and parties leading up to Fat Tuesday, and Jazz Fest, an annual celebration of music and culture. In a city where beads are the currency and drinking in public is not only accepted, but encouraged, Drinking was Made for The Big Easy.
THE FRENCH QUARTER
In 1718, when New Orleans was founded by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, the city was originally centered on the French Quarter. Also known as Vieux Carré, it is the oldest and most famous neighborhood in the city. The district as a whole is a National Historic Landmark, and contains numerous individual historic buildings.
Located in the district and established in 1840, Antoine’s Restaurant is the country’s oldest family-run restaurant. For over 160 years, their excellent French-Creole cuisine, service, and atmosphere have combined to create an unmatched dining experience for both locals and visitors to New Orleans. Unlike many grand restaurants, which have only one central dining room, the century-and-a-half-old Antoine’s has 15 dining rooms, each of them with their own unique history and charm. Serving up some recipes for some classic cocktails like the Sazerac (a simple 19thcentury drink and possibly America’s oldest cocktail), they are known for combining their two loves: alcohol and caffeine, with the Café Brûlot.
Café Brûlot
3 oz Kirschwasser
3 oz Curaçao
3 oz Brandy – Jacques Cardin
Light on fire, mix together
Add Cinnamon sticks, Lemon Peels, and Cloves
Put out flame and add Coffee
*Makes 4 drinks
Warning: Don’t try this at home!
Sazerac
Rye whisky
Peychaud’s bitters
Line/coat glass with absinthe
Rim glass with Lemon peel and put it in drink
Antoine’s Restaurant | 713 Saint Louis St., New Orleans, LA | (504) 581-4422
For some more French Quarter history, journey to the French Market District, a six block area that houses over twenty unique retail shops, performance venues, restaurants, cafes, a flea market and a farmers market. Know as “America’s Oldest Public Market”, it has existed on the same site since 1791.
BOURBON STREET
One of the most notable streets in The Quarter is Bourbon Street where much of the city’s nightlife flourishes.
Many famous drinks were created in New Orleans. Probably the most widely known is “The Hurricane,” whose creation has been credited to Pat O’Brien. Originally a speakeasy during Prohibition, Pat O’Brien’s became a legitimate drinking establishment in 1933. In the 1940’s when rum was available in excess and other liquors like scotch and whiskey were harder to get, O’Brien needed to create a new drink to help him get rid of all of the rum that local distributors forced him to buy before he could get the more popular liquors that were less available. Out of necessity, The Hurricane, a mix of lime juice, passion fruit syrup and rum served in a special glass shaped like a hurricane lamp, was born. Also known for other specialty drinks, like “The Cyclone,” made with vodka and an original Pat O’Brien’s orange blend, you can’t get much more New Orleans authentic.
Hurricane
4 oz of Amber Rum
4 oz Hurricane Mix
Fill with Crushed ice
Garnish with an orange slice and a cherry
Pat O’Brien’s | 718 St. Peter St. New Orleans, LA 70116 | (504) 525-4823
That is, unless of course you visit Tropical Isle, the home of another popular drink that was locally born, “The Hand Grenade.” Created by Pam Fortner and consisting of rum, gin, vodka, grain alcohol (like Everclear) and melon liquor, this high octane drink will knock you off your feet. First made at the 1984 Louisiana World Exposition, it’s known as the strongest drink on Bourbon Street and is equivalent to about 4 ½ standard drinks. Other popular drinks include the “Shark Attack” and the “Tropical Itch.”
Shark Attack
Combine Crushed Ice, Vodka, Sour Mix, Lemon Lime and Grenadine
Tropical Isle | 721 Bourbon St. New Orleans, LA 70116 | (504) 529-4109
Just down the street is Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar, a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. Built between 1722 and 1732 by Nicolas Touze, and located at the corner of Bourbon Street and St. Philip Street, it is reputed to be the oldest structure used as a bar in the United States. Tradition has it that the Lafitte brothers operated this blacksmith shop as a legitimate appearing business, serving as a front for their privateer enterprises. One of the brothers was the infamous Jean Lafitte, Privateer, and co-hero of the Battle of New Orleans.
Known for the “Voodoo,” a frozen mixture of Bourbon, Everclear and grape flavoring and for fruit soaked booze like “The Cherry Bomb” (maraschino cherries that have been soaking in Everclear for several days), they also carry local New Orleans and Louisiana brews.
Voodoo
2 oz bourbon
1 oz Everclear
4 oz grape juice
1 cup crushed ice
Blend and serve
Jean Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop | 941 Bourbon Street, New Orleans, LA 70116 | (504) 593-9761
In the heart of the French Quarter, at the corner of Rue Bourbon and Rue Bienville, sits the almost 200 year-old Old Absinthe House. Celebrities like Oscar Wilde, P.T. Barnum, Mark Twain, General Robert E Lee, Franklin Roosevelt, and Frank Sinatra have visited this historic bar since its opening. Absinthe was introduced into the establishment in 1874 when mixologist Cayetano Ferrer created the famous ‘Absinthe House Frappe.’
The original Absinthe House bar was to be destroyed at the start of Prohibition as a powerful message to proprietors that Absinthe was to be abolished from the US. Under the cover of darkness the original bar was moved to a warehouse on Bourbon Street to save it. To this day, many of the original decorative elements are still a part of the bar’s charm. It is now operated by Tony Moran, and the building housesTony Moran’s Restaurant, Jean Lafitte Bistro as well as the tavern known as Jean Lafitte’s Old Absinthe House.
Absinthe Shot
Place a sugar cube on an Absinthe spoon over the top of a glass
Pour Absinthe over the top of the cube and light it on fire
Allow the sugar to melt into the glass
Put out the flame with a small amount of water
Drink as a shot
Old Absinthe House | 240 Bourbon St.
New Orleans, LA 70112 (504) 523-3181
Tony Moran’s Restaurant | 240 Bourbon St, New Orleans, LA 70130 | (504) 523-3181
ONLY IN NEW ORLEANS
For as many cocktails that have originated in New Orleans, there are just as many beers and spirits that were conceived locally. One such spirit is Old New Orleans Rum. Born in the back streets of the 9th Ward, this distillery creates some of the world’s best rums. They feature unique spirits like their Cajun Spice, a blend of rums that are combined with a kick of cayenne, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves.
But while cocktails and spirits might seem synonymous with this party town, beer has also been an important part of the city. Founded in 1907, one of New Orleans’ oldest breweries, the Dixie Brewing Company makes Dixie Lager, Dixie Jazz, and its new specialty beers, Blackened Voodoo and Crimson Voodoo. A historic landmark, the brewery was severely damaged in 2005 during Hurricane Katrina. The brand remains in business, brewed under contract by breweries elsewhere.
Following the closure of Dixie Brewing Company, the city gained a new brewery, New Orleans Lager and Ale Brewing Company, commonly called NOLA Brewing Company. Founded in 2009, they produce beers with names that are a tribute to the city, like the Hurricane Saison and the 7th Street Wheat.
Probably the most well known beer to come out of Louisiana is Abita Beer. Founded in 1986 it is brewed in Abita Springs, about 30 miles north of New Orleans. With flagship brews like the Purple Haze, Turbo Dog, Jockamo and Amber, they also create some amazing season craft brews like a Bock, Fall Fest and Christmas Ale as well as like the Harvest series featuring Pecan Harvest Ale, Strawberry Harvest Lager and Satsuma Harvest Wit. Their brews can be found all over the United States.
For a truly unique drinking experience, pull into the drive thru of the Daiquiri Bay Café. Much like a fast food joint, you can pull up to the drive thru window, but instead of ordering a burger and fries, you can order a drink of the alcohol variety. With flavors like Jungle Juice, Pink Lemonade, Piña Colada, White Russian and Margarita you can order any of your favorite flavors. If you can’t decide, try The Kitchen Sink, a mix of all of their available flavors. While not exactly promoting drinking and driving, the lax open container laws of Louisiana allow open alcoholic beverages in moving vehicles as long as they’re not being consumed by the driver.
Daiquiri Bay Café | 1001 Veterans Memorial Blvd. Metairie, LA 70005 (504) 838-2295
MARDI GRAS
Having become synonymous with New Orleans, Mardi Gras or “Fat Tuesday” as its translated to in English, takes place yearly in March or April, in association with Lent and the Western Christian calendar. Technically the day before Ash Wednesday, Mardi Gras refers to the practice of eating richer, fatty food on the last night before the ritual fasting of the Lenten season begins, and generally takes place in March. Because of its strong French influences, Mardi Gras is celebrated annually in New Orleans and is known worldwide as one of the biggest parties on earth. In a more traditional sense, it has become synonymous with excessive celebratory drinking, masks, costumes and parades and Bourbon Street has become the U.S. epicenter for these annual activities. Other international cities that host large celebrations include Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), Sydney (Australia), Quebec City (Canada) and Mazatlan (Mexico).
A popular edible custom during Mardi Gras, and the culinary symbol of the season, is the King Cake, a circular, braided cinnamon coffee roll, 12″ to 24″ in diameter, with lots of pretty purple, gold and green icing. Each cake has a plastic baby inside and the tradition is that the person that gets the piece of cake with the baby inside has to buy the next King Cake. The King Cake custom, which dates back to the Middle Ages, began as a celebration of the three Magi, and the Twelfth Day of Christmas. Today, the King Cake is more associated with Mardi Gras.
While many people associate plastic beaded necklaces with Mardi Gras, the tradition of throwing trinkets (including beads) into the crowds from parade floats was started in the early 1870s. Called “throws,” other popular items thrown from floats include doubloons, or aluminum medallions, cups, and stuffed animals