Napa Valley Golf Weekend
Golf Digest, 10/11 & 8/11
Drinking Made Easy, 2011
Additional research by Fat Guy
Golf Digest Away Game October 2011: Napa's Silverado Resort
It's Miller Time. Again.
By Matt Ginella
Photos By Alexandra Tremaine
October 2011
Silverado Resort
Major General John Miller was a decorated Civil War veteran and U.S. senator who pieced together 1,200 acres in Napa Valley in 1881 to build what he called the La Vergne Estate. Seven decades and a few owners later, it became the Silverado Resort, which emerged as the booming wine region's premier destination. Over time, though, the resort faded as its two Robert Trent Jones Jr. golf courses, built in 1967, became nearly obsolete. "I guess we've got a new general in town," says Johnny Miller, the two-time major champion, Hall of Famer and outspoken NBC analyst. Miller and two partners -- executives with the Rug Doctor company -- bought Silverado for $25 million in July 2010.
Though Miller's of no relation to the major general, he'll need to channel the original's leadership on today's courses-and-resorts battlefield. "There are great lodges in Napa," Miller says, "but there aren't any with 36 holes of great golf, so we have an advantage there."
Miller and his partners purchased 36 holes, the range, 17 tennis courts, 10 swimming pools, three restaurants, a spa, a gym, a salon and a conference center. The 439 one-bedroom suites are privately owned but managed by the resort.
Although Miller wants to update every aspect of the resort, he started with what he knows best. "If you have great golf, you usually do pretty good," he says. After adding length, removing trees, planting grass and repositioning almost every bunker, the 7,223-yard North course reopened in May. "Everything about it is dang near different, except for the routing," says Miller, who has designed 34 courses. "Not taking anything away from Robert Trent Jones Jr., but these were among the first courses he did. He was begging to be involved in this redesign, but I had this course pegged 20 years ago. I knew exactly what I wanted to do."
Miller made the North course longer for men but shorter for women. "In Northern California, the air is like mud," Miller says. "At 5,700 yards, it used to be the longest ladies' course in the world, so we added a set of tees at 5,200 yards." Miller compares the North's new look to a former nursery in Georgia: "It looks like Augusta National. It has the deep-green color, the white sand is a knockout, and you can't get better oak trees than what we have at Silverado."
Significant changes to the South course might not happen for a year or two. "I have two partners," Miller says. "I'll start getting grass stains begging to redo the South." Grass is just one of the issues at the South course. Besides its odd mix of strands, the bunkers need moving, there's an overgrowth of trees, and by today's standards, it's short. But also a lot of fun.
Napa has never struck me as very kid-friendly, but I was raised in a neighboring county and used to come over to Silverado as a budding hacker and to watch the PGA Tour and Champions Tour events it hosted until 2002.
I never appreciated Napa for the food and wine back then, though I made up for it on a visit earlier this year. There are two main paths to touring the wineries: Highway 29, described by locals as "new Napa," and the Silverado Trail, or "old Napa." Wineries such as Castello di Amorosa and Rubicon have impressive facades with pretentious tastings, but when I go back to Napa, I'll spend my time and money at smaller wineries like Duckhorn and Fleury. A few glasses into the tasting at Fleury ($35 per person, by appointment only, but they "rarely turn people away") and the animated host, Eric Fleury, offered some advice: "If you don't waste a little bit, you'll get wasted."
I plead guilty, which is why I know more about the ins than the outs of the sizable barrel that Fleury converted into a bathroom. More good advice: Use a car service for your afternoon of drinking. I used Royal Coach (www.royalcoachlimousine.com) and had a driver who knew more about the wineries than the World Wide Web. Town cars are $65 an hour, plus fuel and a suggested tip of 15 to 20 percent. Limos for larger parties are $75 an hour, with the same fuel fee and gratuity.
As for the dining, foodies are writing poetry about Thomas Keller's French Laundry. I couldn't get a table, so I went to Bouchon, one of Keller's three alternate dining options in the Napa area. The cozy French eatery pinned down my taste buds and stole my wallet, but it hurt so good. I can recommend assiette de charcuterie (a board full of dried meats), steak frites, and if I said I sampled only one dessert, I'd be lying.
Miller is also part owner of Bistro Don Giovanni, which is in northern Napa and serves Italian food. "I'd say Napa Valley, for a rural area, has by far the best food in the United States," Miller says. "Because of the wine combination, the best chefs are flocking here." I'd also suggest Bottega and Rutherford Grill, where, when I asked what I should order, one local told me, "Close your eyes and point."
Miller, who has owned a home in Napa and lived there part-time since 1970, has long been associated with Silverado. Now that he owns a stake in the resort, he says he'll be there at least several winter months a year -- not unlike what Arnold Palmer is to Bay Hill in Orlando.
"I know every inch of the place," Miller says. "With the economy the way it is, it's not easy to take something that's pretty good and put more money into it, but I really think this is the first step to bringing Silverado back to where it should be."
Fat Guy's Where To Play: When in wine country, how can you not tee it up at a course named Chardonnay GC (Napa, $86, www.chardonnaygolfclub.com). Six par 5's and six par-3's meander through 150 acres of Chardonnay vineyards in Jameson Canyon. The routing features numerous lake and creek crossings, abundant wildlife, and great natural settings. Golf Digest gave it 4 stars and rated the 8th hole as one of their "Most Fun Holes In America". Eagle Vines GC (Napa, $88, www.eaglevinesgolfclub.com) is a first-class Johnny Miller design routed through similar terrain, with cherry and oak trees, 27 acres of vineyards, babbling creeks, an island green, and outstanding conditions. Silverado R&S (Napa, $100, www.silveradogolfresort.com) has 2 championship courses. Both courses were designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. with more of a parkland feel, routed through stands of oaks, water, and elevation changes. The North Course was renovated by new resort owner Johnny Miller in 2010. The resort hosted a Senior Tour event from 1989-2002. For something more affordable, tee it up at Napa Valley MGC at Kennedy Park (Napa, $48, www.playnapa.com), a flat, playable layout in respectable shape with some quaint tree-lined vistas.
My Town: Johnny Miller's Napa Valley
This California region's versatility makes it a very tough place to leave
By Ryan Herrington
Photo by Alexandra Tremaine
August 22, 2011
When Johnny Miller first spent significant time in the Napa Valley, it wasn't so much what he saw that wowed him, but what he smelled. "With all the oak trees in the area, I'd never smelled anything like it," Miller recalls. "It was this amazing aroma."
In 1970 the Hall of Fame golfer and his wife bought a condo there and have had a home in the area ever since. It's the summers, in particular, that Miller is partial to, the sun-drenched weather making it tough to hit the road and broadcast tournaments for NBC.
"It feels like you're on vacation when you go home," Miller said. "There aren't that many people who move to Napa and leave."
Miller became even more connected to the area in 2010 when he purchased the Silverado Resort and Spa along with two other investors. With the food, wine -- and golf -- that the area affords, Miller believes that Napa continues to be a versatile destination spot, good for a romantic getaway with your spouse or golf trip with the guys.
COURSES
Silverado Resort will always be special to me. I played in the old Kaiser International event there as an amateur and won it twice as a pro on the PGA Tour. My affinity for it is why I was happy to help in the redesign of the North course. Sure, I'm biased, but the work that's been done makes it one of the best anywhere. We stretched it out to 7,200 yards and redid the bunkering. It was more than just a few cosmetic changes. It reopened earlier this year, and I hope we'll hold another pro event here soon. Meanwhile, the South course gets a little overshadowed, but it's also fun to play.
Eagle Vines Vineyards & GC and Chardonnay GC are two other nice courses. Both play right into vineyards, which makes for a scenic, peaceful round. If you're coming from the Bay Area to get away, it's easy to forget the rat race out there.
On the south edge of the valley is Napa GC at Kennedy Park. It's a municipal course that's held qualifiers for some bigger tournaments. It's a very good layout.
WHERE TO STAY
One of the reasons a lot of pros liked to play tournaments at Silverado is because of the resort itself. You have everything you could want on the property: good food, shopping, a nice spa, tennis courts. It's not a Mickey Mouse resort.
The Villagio Inn & Spa and the Hotel Yountville are fantastic places as well. They each have plenty to offer to make your stay special. And if you want to go ultra high end, there's the Auberge du Soleil.
DINING
I have a few places I go with family and friends. There are two Italian restaurants, Bistro Don Giovanni and Bottega, that are excellent. The chefs at each, Donna Scala and Michael Chiarello, are whizzes. Given the vineyards, you have to have French fare, and you can find that at Bouchon and The French Laundry.
Another fun place to try is Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc. The menu changes daily; you have to check in and see what they've got going each night. If there's fried chicken, be sure to go. It's killer.
DON'T MISS
You can't come to Napa and not visit the vineyards. I'm partial to Altamura Winery. I took my NBC partner Dan Hicks and his wife Hannah Storm there earlier this month. A lot of the places in the valley are owned by big conglomerates, but that's not the case here. Frank and Karen Altamura are hands-on owners, working daily on this former cattle ranch. Wine Spectator rated their 2007 Cabernet No. 5 on its top 100 in 2010.
Given the great weather, you can do lots of other outdoor activities as well. There is kayaking along the Napa River and some good biking opportunities. The Silverado Trail goes to Calistoga, and it has a big bike lane so it's safe to ride. Cycling has become a big thing.
Zane Lamprey's Drinking Made Easy Guide To Napa Valley (2011):
The Napa Valley, a world famous winemaking region located just north of the San Francisco Bay area, is one of California’s most popular tourist destinations. With a population of about 110,000, it receives more than 5 million visitors each year. Internationally known as one of the world’s greatest wine regions, it is just one-eighth the size of another great winemaking region: Bordeaux, France. Early pioneer George C. Yount is credited for growing the first grapes in the Napa Valley back in 1864. The wealth of post-Gold Rush San Francisco created a huge demand for wine and by 1891 there were 619 vineyards throughout the valley. Prohibition threatened to destroy the industry and it took more than 30 more years after Prohibition ended for the wine business to recover. Today, viticulture in and around Napa is thriving and while wine is clearly the county’s primary industry, you’ll also find some locally made spirits and a blossoming craft beer scene.
WINE COUNTRY
The Napa Valley at 30 miles long, with more than 45,000 acres planted to grapes, is segmented into five incorporated cities: Napa, Calistoga, St. Helena, Yountville and American Canyon. Nearby Angwin, Deer Park, Lake Berryessa, Rutherford and Oakville are all communities with post offices but aren’t actual towns. Widely considered one of the top American vinticultural areas, it has prospered after setbacks like 13 years of Prohibition and an infestation of the phylloxera insect in the late 19th and 20th centuries. Over a hundred grape varieties are grown in California including French, Italian and Spanish wine varietals. Napa Valley features more than 450 wineries that grow many grape varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Zinfandel among others.
The city of Napa, with more than 60,000 residents, is the county seat, founded in 1848 by Nathan Coombs. Wineries are plentiful, but for a more unique experience, you can catch the infamous Napa Wine Train from the train station on McKinstry Street in Napa. The Wine Train provides a 36-mile roundtrip journey from Napa, through the famous wine valley, passing through Yountville, Oakville, and Rutherford, to the quaint town of St. Helena and back. Tour packages vary, but generally include a winery tour (or multiple winery tours) with a gourmet meal and wine tastings (on the train) all the while enjoying breathtaking views of the valley.
Just to the north of Napa, along Highway 29, is Yountville. With a population of just over 3,000, and only a mile long in length, Yountville is a “walking town”, filled with restaurants, shops and lodging. It was founded in 1831 by George Yount and later named in his honor. Yount is generally credited to have been the first to grow grapes in the Napa Valley. Famous wineries in Yountville include Domaine Chandon, which was the first French owned winery in the United States to produce sparkling wine when it opened in 1973. They continue to specialize in sparkling wines, but also produce Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Just north of Yountville, as you head towards St. Helena, is Rutherford, an unincorporated community that is home to some of the region’s best wineries. Rutherford is at the valley’s widest point, giving it longer sun exposure and the perfect terroir for wine grapes. Just off the main road is Peju Province Winery, whose vineyard is part of a six square mile region, called the Rutherford Appellation, which allows ideal conditions for producing handcrafted, organically farmed wines. Tony Peju purchased the winery in 1982 and has produced a number of award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon’s (also their flagship wine), Cabernet Franc’s and others. Their 30-acre estate features a 50-foot tasting room tower, delectable food and wine pairings and pristine gardens.
Peju Province Winery | 8466 Saint Helena Highway, Rutherford, CA 94573 | (707) 963-3600
Just across the road is the historic Rubicon Estate. The property, formerly known as Inglenook Winery, was established in 1879 by Captain Gustave Niebaum and was the first Bordeaux style winery in the USA. In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola and his wife Eleanor purchased a part of the property and started Niebaum-Coppola Estate Winery. In 1995, Coppola purchased the remainder of the estate and in 2006 renamed it as Rubicon Estate. Today the 235-acre estate is known for producing award-winning wines, like their 2006 CASK Cabernet, which has also gained critical acclaim.
Rubicon Estate | 1991 St Helena Hwy, Rutherford, CA 94574 | (707) 968-1100
St. Helena, affectionately known as the “Heart of the Napa Valley”, is the next city along Highway 29. Founded in 1853, it is still a small town with less than 6,000 people. In a valley known for its Michelin-rated restaurants, it’s fitting that St. Helena is home to the Culinary Institute of America. Begun in 1946, it’s the only residential college in the world devoted entirely to culinary education. St. Helena is also home to the first winery founded in the Napa Valley, the Charles Krug Winery, in 1861. The Mondavi family purchased the winery in 1943, and today they are the producers of award-winning wines.
One of St. Helena’s most interesting wineries is Charter Oak Winery. Known for its exceptional, and award-winning California Zinfandel, Charter Oak is an “old-world” family- run boutique winery.
After learning the process of winemaking from his Italian grandfather, and inheriting his winemaking tools after his death, Robert Fanucci, along with his son David and friend Jim White opened the Charter Oak Winery in 1986. Among the hundreds of other wineries in the valley, it is truly unique in that it is one of the only wineries that does mostly everything by hand; all of their wines are made with naturally occurring yeasts, hand-pressed in a 100-year-old basket press and punched down by hand. Their 2007 Monte Rosso Zinfandel recently gained notoriety in the international wine community, receiving the best in show, out of 730 entries, at the Millennial Winemakers Challenge.
Charter Oak Winery | 831 Charter Oak Ave, St. Helena, CA 94574 | (707) 963-2298
A little further north is Calistoga, which was developed in the 1860s. The name of the city is said to have been accidentally coined by town founder Sam Brannan who apparently intended to refer to it as the “Saratoga of California” (referring to Saratoga in upstate New York), but instead, after having had a few drinks, came out with “the Calistoga of Sarafornia”. Calistoga it stayed.
Located in the city of Calistoga is Chateau Montelena, a winery that is famous for winning the white wine section of the historic “Judgment of Paris” wine competition in 1976. Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay was in competition with nine other wines from France and California. After a blind tasting, all 11 judges awarded their top scores to either the Chardonnays from Chateau Montelena or Chalone Winery, from Soledad, California. Chateau Montelena was victorious. This win was not only a surprise to many, as France was generally regarded as being the foremost producers of the world’s best wines, but it put California wines on the map and was a significant part of drawing attention towards Napa Valley vineyards.
American Canyon is Napa County’s newest and second largest city, incorporated just a few years ago. Located just south of Napa, they also have a few wineries.
LOCAL SPIRITS
Grapes are not the only thing fermenting in the Napa Valley.Charbay Winery & Distillery is the only legal distillery in Napa, and they are makers of wine, port, vodka, brandy, tequila, whiskey, rum, grappa, liqueurs and aperitifs. Charbay Vodkas come in flavors like blood orange, ruby grapefruit and pomegranate and their 80-proof clear vodka, which is made using American Midwest corn and rye, was voted the #1 Vodka in the World by Spirit Journal for two years in a row. Their Brandy No. 83 Folle Blanche was distilled in 1983 using rare Folle Blanche grapes and small batch distilling. 27 years of aging make this a premier brandy that goes for about $350 a bottle.
Affectionately known as “The Still on the Hill”, Charbay is a 27-year-old independent family business owned by the Karakasevic Family. Miles and Susan Karakasevic are the owners and co-founders and their son Marko, is a 13th generation winemaker and distiller.
Charbay Cocktail
Charbay Green Tea Aperitif
Lemonade
Charbay Winery & Distillery | 4001 Spring Mountain Rd., St Helena, CA 94574 | (707) 963-9327
For a truly unique local cocktail, look no further than Bistro Don Giovanni whose bar makes a Yellow Bloody Mary, using yellow tomatoes, instead of the traditional red. Their Italian-inspired menu offers culinary delectable’s like gourmet pizzas, Fritto Misto, rabbit Pappardelle, shrimp Risotto and a wild boar Rigatoni Bolognese.
Blondie Mary
Yellow Tomatoes
Green Tabasco Sauce
Lea & Perrins Marinade (light Worcestershire sauce)
Charbay Pepper Vodka
Rim glass with lemon, add salt and pepper
Pour into glass, garnish with cherry tomato and bean
Bistro Don Giovanni | 4110 Howard Lane,
Napa, CA 94558 | (707) 224-3300
Outside of Napa, in the town of Sonoma, you’ll find HelloCello Limoncello di Sonoma. Founded by husband and wife team, Fred and Amy Groth, they use 100% certified organic ingredients, like Eureka lemons that grow year round in California. Limoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur, traditionally made from Sorrento lemons, whose peels are soaked in high proof distilled grain alcohol then mixed with sugar and water. At HelloCello, they use about 3,500 to 4,000 lemons per batch, which are all peeled by hand, combined with 180 proof brandy, which when added to water and agave for about 14 days, brings it down to about 62 proof.
Limon Nitro
Soak raspberries in Liquid Nitrogen
Add frozen raspberries to a glass with peeled lemon wedges, simple syrup and Limoncello Di Sonoma
Add ice and a shot of Peruvian Pisco
Top it with Pellegrino on top and add the rest of the frozen raspberries
NAPA VALLEY BEER
Napa Valley also has its fair share of breweries. Locals flock to Downtown Joe’s, a neighborhood watering hole that makes its own brew, operating as a regional microbrewery. Established in 1994, Joe’s head brewer Colin Kaminski creates beers like their most popular, the Tail Waggin’ Amber Ale, the Golden Thistle Very Bitter Ale, and the Old Magnolia Oatmeal Stout.
Just up Highway 29 between St. Helena and Calistoga is the Silverado Brewing Co. Located inside the historic Freemark Abbey Winery building, which was built in 1895, Silverado opened in 2000 and has been serving award-winning ales and lagers and a menu featuring fresh and organic ingredients to locals and visitors alike. Their year-round beers include an Amber Ale, Pale Ale, Stout and Blonde.
The more popular and notable breweries in the surrounding area include Bear Republic Brewing Co. in nearby Healdsburg, makers of the popular Racer 5 IPA and Lagunitas Brewing Co. in Petaluma, a brewery that has been making big waves in the craft beer community with brews like Hop Stoopid Ale and Little Sumpin’ Sumpin Ale.
One of the most prominent breweries in the Napa Valley area is Russian River Brewing Co. Founded in 1997 by craft beer pioneer Vinnie Cilurzo, RRBC has won numerous awards for its unique and cutting edge beers. Year round brews include Pliny the Elder, Blind Pig IPA and Damnation, but it’s their Barrel Aged and Belgian Style Ales that have been causing a stir. They also produce limited release beers like their 11% Triple IPA called Pliny the Younger which is in very high demand and is only brewed in very limited batches.