Kauai HI Golf Weekend
Golf Digest, 12/09
Away Game | Golf on Kauai
A Prince and a Saint
By Matt Ginella
Photos by Walter Iooss Jr.
December 2009
Bobbing on a crowded tour boat at the base of true beauty, sitting next to family and new friends, surrounded by passing pods of dolphins and an occasional sea turtle, I notice everyone is pointing and whispering. We are in the presence of greatness. A single life, certainly my life, at the face of 1,000-foot lava cliffs, sea caves and waterfalls, seems insignificant.
Kauai's Na Pali Coast and the scenes at Hanalei Bay were a bonus for me. As a certified golf junkie, I flew to Honolulu, jumped another plane to the Lihue Airport and drove 45 minutes north on a two-lane highway mainly because I wanted to play the Prince Course and see the new St. Regis Princeville Resort.
The Prince Course, ranked No. 67 among America's 100 Greatest Golf Courses, is a Robert Trent Jones Jr. design. As I navigated a round that cost me $200 and three sleeves of balls, I was intimidated, frustrated and amazed that Jones was able to turn the terrain into a golf course. With its elevated tee boxes, small greens, smaller landing areas and trouble that I'd call "jungle," it wasn't long before I switched to the compact swing I reserve for tough layouts. Still, I shot 15 strokes above my average.
When a course has a 100 Greatest ranking and a big green fee, the 15th club in my bag is always expectation. I give the Prince birdies on the spectacular-scenery scorecard, but it didn't leave me with that I can't wait to get back to the first tee feeling. (Tip: Don't go back any farther than the 6,521-yard white tees.) The course wasn't in great shape, either. It's a struggle for Bermuda grass to stay grown-in that close to salt water, especially with so much rain.
The neighboring 27-hole Makai Course, also a Jones Jr. design but with a different owner and management, just underwent a complete renovation and should reopen in early 2010. Jones and his staff switched to a more durable, salt-tolerant grass, reconfigured green complexes, rerouted cartpaths and reshaped bunkers. Some argue that the Makai is on more scenic property than the Prince. (The Makai was built first, in 1971, versus Prince in 1990, and is closer to the ocean.) My opinion: It's a nice resort-course complement to big brother Prince, which is a more difficult test and gets more national recognition. I'd suggest playing the Prince once or twice in a five-day stay and then playing more at the Makai if you want to maintain a sense of golf sanity.
The Makai Course is managed by Troon Golf and overseen by Cornerstone Real Estate Advisers, which spent a multi-million dollars renovating the adjoining Princeville Resort. Cut into the cliff overlooking Hanalei Bay, Princeville was suffering from age and mildew after years of ocean exposure. It reopened Oct. 1 as a St. Regis, the high-end of Starwood's multitiered properties. "I've been here for three openings of this resort," says Stephanie Kaluahine Reid, its public relations director. "The exterior footprint is the same, but as a Hawaiian I relate to this vision of the resort the best."
What used to be a European influence, with lots of green marble and a cramped lobby, has been replaced with Asian overtones, an organic color palette, dark wood floors, open space and floor-to-ceiling glass panels designed to emphasize the views of Makana Mountain and the bay. The resort remade all 252 guest rooms and added a 10,000-square-foot spa, a seamless check-in (straight to your room), an infinity pool, butler service for guests in its 51 suites and the debut of a Jean-Georges restaurant in Hawaii.
Though Kauai is Hawaii's first island -- discovered in A.D. 200, or about 500 years before Oahu, Maui, Molokai and the Big Island -- in many ways it's still the "rawest" of the bunch. Think "Jurassic Park" or the jungle scenes from the 2005 version of "King Kong" -- this is where those movies were shot. The eastern side of Kauai averages 40 inches of rain every year (20 fewer than Bandon Dunes). At the peak of Mount Waialeale, one of the dampest spots in the world, the average annual rainfall is 485 inches. The one-lane bridge from the resort to Hanalei Bay floods regularly, and in 1992, Hurricane Iniki devastated the island. Locals say the 160-mile-per-hour winds blew small farm animals and pets from one end of the island to the other, and 17 years later, the wild-chicken population reminds me of pigeons in Manhattan -- they're everywhere.
It's easy to understand why most tourists bring little more than a swimsuit and sandals. Anything with a formal twist, such as at St. Regis, might seem like a twisted concept here. But then, people also combine five-star luxury with a safari on the Serengeti, so maybe the white-gloved butlers serving $22 margaritas at St. Regis will work.
Through December, St. Regis is offering a garden-view room starting at $410 a night with unlimited golf for two on the Prince. Or you can take advantage of several golf-only packages at the Prince, such as three rounds in five days for $340.
But the best golf deal on Kauai is 30 minutes from St. Regis, where, on average, 200 locals (sometimes shirtless) tee it up every day. The host of three U.S. Amateur Public Links championships (1975, '85 and '96), Wailua Municipal is across the street from a small penitentiary, and that's where you should check your ego. But bring your camera and your A-game. Locals pay $60 a month for unlimited golf. You'll pay $60 on weekdays and $70 on weekends. There are six holes along the ocean, the best being the 173-yard 17th. Anything more than a four-hour round is unacceptable. My foursome was pressed by a sixsome that included a woman carrying a full set of clubs and pushing a kid-filled stroller. Now that will make you feel insignificant.
Zane Lamprey's Drinking Made Easy Guide To Kauai (2011):
For a 6 million year old island that’s home to one of the rainiest areas in the world and thousands of wild chickens, Kauai is anything but chaotic. Hawaii’s most green island is adorned with tourists and locals looking for the best ways to wind down and there’s no better place on the island to listen to the rainfall, then under the roof of one of the many local bars, pubs or watering holes. In this episode, Zane dives into the Pacific for some reef snorkeling, learns about the aphrodisiac benefits of honey mead, and mixes up some classic Hawaiian cocktails with some of Kauai’s best bartenders.
WHERE WE WENT
Merriman’s Fish House Set in an Old Hawaiian Plantation, they were one of the pioneers in the “farm to table” concept and serve only the freshest products, at least 90% which are grown or caught locally. Beautiful mountain and ocean views. Premium bar upstairs, casual dining downstairs and a wine cellar with more than 1000 bottles of wine.
2829 Ala Kalanikaumaka Street #G-149, Kōloa, Kauai, HI 96756 | (808) 742-8385
Keoki’s Paradise Traditional Polynesian atmosphere, it was styled to resemble a dockside boathouse, and includes a lagoon, lush foliage and a thatched roof. Featuring nightly live music and a daily happy hour from 3-5pm, it’s a great place for a classical Kauai night out.
2360 Kiahuna Plantation Drive, Kōloa, Kauai, HI 96756
| (808) 742-7534
Brennecke’s Beach Broiler Conveniently located across from Poipu Beach Park, it features open-air dining with amazing ocean views. Boasts a tropically-inspired cocktail list (and “mocktails” for the little ones), as well as daily happy hours and drink specials. Amazing sunset views.
2100 Hoone Road, Poipu Beach, Kōloa, Kauai HI 96756 | (808) 742-7588
Stevenson’s Library at The Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort Features an assortment of great cocktails in a relaxing setting. Reminiscent of a Victorian-era gentlemen’s club, this book-lined room boasts an extensive selection of Cognac and Port and live nightly entertainment.
1571 Poipu Road, Kōloa, Kauai, HI, USA 96756 | (808) 742-1234
22˚ North at the Kilohana Plantation In addition to the Kōloa Rum Tasting Room, you’ll also find 22 North, a bar and restaurant that subscribes to the “farm to table” philosophy and serves fresh cocktails, on the grounds of the Plantation.
3-2087 Kaumualii Highway
Lihue, Kauai HI 96766 |
(808) 245-5608
Nani Moon Meadery Specializing in dry meads, and made using honey, fruit and spices. It’s bottled and sold on site at their meadery and tasting room in Kapa’a.
4-939 D Kuhio Highway,
Kapa’a, Kauai, HI 96746
| (808) 651-2453
WHAT WE FEATURED
Kōloa Rum The only licensed distillery on Kauai, Kōloa Rum is handcrafted from the finest sugarcane and twice distilled in single batches. Their five different rums include a white rum, a dark rum, gold rum and spice rum.
Nani Moon Meadery The only producer of tropical honey wines in the state of Hawaii. Flavors include Cacao Moon, Pineapple Guava Sunset, Winter Sun, Laka’s Nectar and Ginger Spice.