Kansas City Golf & BBQ Weekend

Golf Digest, 6/11

T&L Golf, Sept/Oct '04

My Town: Tom Watson's Kansas City 
The legendary golfer can't hide his affinity for his long-time home

By Nick Seitz, Golf Digest

Tom Watson is the superstar who stayed home. Born and raised on the Kansas side of bistate Kansas City, he has moved from a residential neighborhood to a farm on the outskirts, but he's never been tempted to leave the all-seasons climate for warmer pastures.

The eight-time major champion is in the 40th year of his Hall of Fame career. Two years ago at nearly 60 years of age he came within a shot of winning a sixth British Open; last weekend, now 61, he won the Senior PGA, becoming the oldest player to win a Champions Tour major. He swings the club better than ever in the view of leading teachers and players. He is comfortable in the congenial and plain-spoken Midwestern atmosphere. Next on his agenda the day of this interview was a talk to a first-grade class taught by the wife of a good friend.

Watson enjoys giving visitors an inside guide to Kansas City's proud heritage of jazz -- Charlie (Bird) Parker, Count Basie, et al. -- and barbecue among other attractions. It's the Midwestern way.

COURSES
This is a very active golf area with a lot of fine courses. I have a special feeling for Blue Hills CC, where I won perhaps the most important tournament of my life when I was 14 -- the Kansas City Match Play Championship. It gave me a dream of becoming a professional golfer. My Children's Mercy Hospital Classic was played there for 25 straight years. And this year the Watson Challenge, an event I started to determine the best golfer in the area, is being held there, with a 48-man field of pros and amateurs.

For four years the Champions Tour was at Tiffany Greens GC, a spacious and challenging course near the airport that's open to the public. So is one of the last courses Tillinghast designed, Swope Memorial GC in Swope Park, one of the largest urban parks that also includes the zoo and a wonderful outdoor summer theater. I designed a First Tee course there where we stage a junior golf festival in the spring.

WHERE TO STAY
I recommend The Raphael to out-of-towners. It's an elegant boutique hotel on the Plaza, a renovated apartment building with vintage European charm but modern conveniences. An alternative is the Westin Crown Center, which is connected to a three-level shopping complex and the Hallmark headquarters.

DINING
My favorite meal has always been fried chicken. Stroud's has been honored by the James Beard Foundation and other food critics and is known for generous family-style portions.

Additionally, you can't come to Kansas City without sampling the barbecue. The American Royal barbecue contest is part of a venerable eight-week livestock and horse show. Arthur Bryant's is in a plain brick building in a redeveloped part of town. The sauce is tart and spicy and slow-cooked in. Writer Calvin Trillin called it the best restaurant in the world and suggested that the airport be named for Arthur. You carry your tray cafeteria-style past the pit. Ask for some burnt ends.

Kansas City is also famous for strip steak. Jess & Jim's is an old favorite for aged steaks. The historic Savoy Grill has good steak and a lot of seafood as well. Try to sit in the Harry Truman Booth.

DON'T MISS
Two well done historical attractions are the National World War I Museum at the Liberty Memorial and the Truman Library and Museum in nearby Independence.  The American Jazz Museum and Negro Leagues Baseball Museum are close together near downtown. The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art's sculpture garden features a dozen Henry Moore large bronze works. Indoors you can find numerous paintings by Kansas City's own Thomas Hart Benton.

Zane Lamprey's Drinking Made Easy Guide To "KCMO"

WESTPORT

Just south of downtown Kansas City you’ll find Westport, a historic district that is known for its restaurants, shops and bars. An original frontier village, dating back to the 1830s, pioneers who were traveling along the historic trails of the National Trail system (California, Lewis & Clark, Oregon and Santa Fe) would stock up on food, wagons, animals and other provisions that they needed for the journey West. After the Civil War, Westport declined as a major thoroughfare when Kansas City became the dominant community. Today, as a part of Kansas City, Westport still retains its own identity. Having become a premier destination for Kansas City nightlife, it’s filled with renovated and new buildings housing trendy shops, restaurants, and nightspots.

In Westport, the bar with the most historic significance is undoubtedly Kelly’s Westport Inn. Occupying the oldest building in Kansas City, it was built in 1850 and has housed a wide range of businesses over the years, including a grocery run by Daniel Boone’s grandson Albert. In 1947, it was an establishment called Westport Inn and Randal Kelly, an Irish immigrant, was a bartender there. His popularity over the years led patrons to start calling it “Kelly’s” and eventually he became a partner in the business. In 1977 it was officially named “Kelly’s Westport Inn” and has been a family run business ever since. Often called one of the best Irish pubs in KC, they recently opened a 1,125 square foot rooftop deck that overlooks Pennsylvania Avenue.

Kelly’s Good Bloody Mary
Vodka
Tomato Juice
Worcestershire Sauce
Tabasco Sauce
Lemon Juice
Celery Salt
Topped with 3 oz of Guinness

Kelly’s Westport Inn | 500 Westport Rd, Kansas City, MO 64111 | (816) 561-5800

Just across the street is Harry’s Bar & Tables. With 50 plus brands of scotch, 30 types of cigars, and numerous cocktails, this upscale cigar and martini bar serves excellent food, and is one of the coziest spots in Westport for people-watching.

Rosie Palmer (beer cocktail)
Boulevard Wheat Beer
Absolut Citron
Lemonade

Harry’s Bar & Tables | 501 Westport Rd, Kansas City, MO 64111 | (816) 561-3950

Another watering hole in the Westport area is Buzzard Beach. Self-proclaimed as “Kansas City’s Only 5 Star Dive,” this bar features beer, shots and a colorful crowd. One of KC’s locally created drinks, which you can order here, is the Bergen Malt. Created in 1994 by Kansas Citian Mike Bergen, it’s a shot of Jagermeister dropped into a half pint of light beer, topped with Baileys Irish Cream and chugged.

Bergen Malt
½ glass of Bud Light (or light beer)
Jagermeister shot dropped in
Topped with Baileys Irish Cream and chug

Buzzard Beach | 4110 Pennsylvania Ave, Kansas City, MO 64111 | (816) 753-4455

The upscale Paris-style Bistro, Westport Café and Bar, offers a unique American menu inspired by classic French preparation and specializes in prohibition-style cocktails like the Westport Fizz, Whiskey Smash, and Rhubarb Cocktail. One of their popular cocktails is The Pendergast, named after Kansas City political boss, Thomas Joseph Pendergast. During the Great Depression “Boss Tom” Pendergast helped elect politicians, becoming wealthy in the process.

The Pendergast
¾ oz Sweet Vermouth
½ oz Benedictine
1 ½ oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey
Dash of Angostura Bitters
Fill with ice, stir and strain
Add lemon zest

Westport Café & Bar | 419 Westport Rd, Kansas City, MO 64111 | (816) 931-4740

Other Bars popular bars in Westport include the Dark Horse Tavern and Ernie Biggs Dueling Piano Bar.

KCMO BBQ

The Kansas City area is renowned for barbeque. With more than 100 different BBQ restaurants, it’s often considered to be “the world’s barbeque capital.” Kansas City style-BBQ refers to the specific style of meat (including pork, sausage, beef and chicken) that is slow smoked over a variety of woods and then covered with a thick tomato and molasses based sauce. The creation of Kansas City BBQ is attributed to Henry Perry, who served slow cooked ribs on pages of newsprint for 25 cents a slab in the early 1900s.

If you’re looking for some KC BBQ and great music, look no further than B.B.’s Lawn Side Bar BQ, where barbeque meets the blues. For nearly 20 years, B.B.’s has been serving slow cooked meats from its 60 year-old pit. Make sure you come hungry and try the BBQ Sundae, which weighs over 1 lb, is served in a mason jar, and consists of 6 oz pork, 5 oz coleslaw and 6.5 oz beans. In addition to barbeque, B.B.’s also serves signature Louisiana dishes like gumbo, jumbalaya, red beans, rice and goulash.

B.B.’s Lawn Side Bar B-Q | 1205 East 85th St, Kansas City, MO 64105 | (816) 822-7427

Arthur Bryant’s is a local BBQ restaurant with some real Kansas City history. Known as the “master of barbeque” or the “King of Ribs” Bryant created a sauce that has attracted US presidents and celebrities to enjoy KC style barbeque that’s slow-smoked with a combination of hickory and oaks woods. Arthur’s brother Charlie worked for Henry Perry, the man who Kansas City-style BBQ is attributed to and Arthur used to work for him. After Charlie died, Arthur took over and opened his restaurant on 18th and Brooklyn and it’s since become legendary. Today there are 2 other locations in KCMO as well.

Another local favorite KC BAR B-Q joint is LC’s Barbeque. Their burnt ends “sandwich” is an impossibly large pile of meat chunks doused with celery seed accented barbecue sauce and garnished with white bread.

BEER

There’s no beer more famous in Kansas City than those made by Boulevard Brewing Company. Founded in 1989 by John McDonald, Boulevard has grown to become the largest specialty brewer in the Midwest and their beers are currently available throughout Missouri, Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa, Oklahoma,Arkansas, Indiana, North Dakota and South Dakota with limited distribution in several other states. Their flagship brew, The Unfiltered Wheat Beer won the Gold Medal at the Great American Beer Festival in 2008, and is the best-selling craft beer in the Midwest. All of their beers are bottle conditioned, meaning that a secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle. With eight year-round brews, five seasonals and their Smokestack Series, a special collection of bigger, bolder, more complex beers that generally possess a higher content than their core brands, they are the 8th largest craft brewery and the 16th largest active brewery in the US. The brewery offers free tours from Wednesday to Sunday, but reservations are required.

Boulevard Brewing Company | 2501 Southwest Boulevard,
Kansas City, MO 64108

While Boulevard is the premier craft brewery in Kansas City, there are a number of brewpubs around town that make and sell their own beer. Among those are75th Street Brewery, which offers several brews on tap like the Cow Town Wheat, Muddy ‘Mo Stout, and Good Hope IPA. Patrons can also take home fresh beer in a ½ gallon growler or 32 oz Siphon.

McCoy’s Public House in Westport also makes their own beer. Brews like their Peach Wheat, Maibock andGinger Shandy are available on draft and also to take home in kegs and growlers.

Kansas City is also home to many specialty beer bars including The Foundry and The Beer Kitchen. With a beer list too complex to explain, The Foundry is a beer lover’s paradise. From local brews to rotating taps, bottles, flights and reserves, even the pickiest beer drinker is bound to find something here that they like. Located in Westport, The Beer Kitchen has a number of Belgian draft beers and an extensive bottle list. They also serve gourmet burgers, offer a build-your-own macaroni and cheese, and other delicious gastropub fare.

MARTINI CORNER

A unique combination of five local owner operated bars and restaurants that cater to just about every need and style, Martini Corner is Kansas City’s premier place to play. From martinis, to sports, to wine and outdoor patios, Martini Corner has it all within feet of each other.

Famous nationwide for its martinis and hand-crafted cocktails, the flagship bar of Martini Corner is The Velvet Dog. With daily entertainment and drink specials, this is a great place to go for a night out on the town.

Sea Cucumber
Muddle cucumber
Add 4 count of Gin
Top with Tonic and Lemon Lime Soda
Add a splash of Sour

Dragon Berry Cocktail
Strawberry Rum (Bacardi Dragon Berry)
Pearl Pomegranate Vodka
Black Raspberry Liqueur
Splash of Lemonade
Splash of Lemon-Lime Soda
Shake over ice and serve

Velvet Dog | 400 East 31st Street, Kansas City, MO 64108 | (816) 753-9990

Just across the street from the Velvet Dog is The Drop: Bar and Bistro, the home of one-of-kind martinis and edible cocktails. Owner Eddie Crane creates these edible cocktails, a type of “molecular mixology” and The Drop features flavors like the Lemon Drop, Mojito, Godiva/Grand Marnier, Port Wine and Hazelnut, Amaretto and Baileys Irish Cream and Coffee, all whose recipes are top secret. In addition to unique libations, this upscale neighborhood bistro also serves artisanal cuisine. The Drop has received titles like “Best Bar” and was named one of Kansas City’s Top 5 Best Restaurants.

The Drop: Bar and Bistro | 409 East 31st Street, Kansas City, MO | (816) 756-3767


Kansas City, Here You Come
by Matt Hendrickson (BBQ-obsessed Rolling Stone writer from Columbia, MO), T&L Golf

Annointed the "Paris of the Plains" in the 1920's, the jazz scene continues to flourish amongst a sometimes-European feel. The past 10 years have brought a golf-boom of 20 uncrowded new courses, with greens fees topping out around $70, even on Summer weekends.

Fly into K.C. Intl (Southwest offers the most direct flights). Rent a car; they don't stack things up in the Midwest. K.C. straddles the Missouri River, but most of the action takes place on the MO side. Downtown and Country Club Plaza are hotspots, featuring good hotels and nightlife just 20-30 minutes south of the airport.

Where To Play: Ironhorse GC (6988, 141, $62-70, '95 Hurdzan, 4 1/2 stars, Leawood KS, 913-685-4653) is a fave of local and visiting pro athletes (Roger Clemmons is a regular), and the back 9 may be the best collection of public holes in K.C.. Shoal Creek GC (6944, 130, $50-60, '01 Steve Wolfard, 4 stars, 816-407-7242) is city-owned with a private club feel, GPS, maturing quickly to primo condition with a tough back 9 featuring deep front-side bunkers demanding accuracy off the tee. Tiffany Greens GC (6977, 133, $55-65, '99 RTJ Jr, 4 stars, 10 mins from airport, 816-880-9600) with thick grasses, water on 13 holes, long par-3s and wind; the final 4 on the front roll sweetly through pastoral lands with nary a McMansion in sight. See Also: Prarie Highlands GC.

Where To Grub: Barbeque rules in Kansas City. While Texas BBQ is beef, and pork is the staple in North Carolina, K.C. barbeque doesn't discriminate. Travel Channel likes the down home style and thinnish vinegary sauce at BBQ icon Arthur Bryant's, where Presidents have been regulars since 1930. No-frills, order at the counter, and get succulent sliced beef and chewy burnt ends (a true K.C. BBQ staple). [Fat Guy Note:, I ordered their sauce off the internet and thought it tasted like someone pissed in a cup of coffee, but to each his own.] Gates & Sons ranks a close second to Bryant's. Other barbeque joints worth checking out: Fiorella's Jack Stack has the most extensive menu in town and actual table service; lesser-known stands such as LC's or Oklahoma Joe's (located inside a gas station) are the real treasures where meaty ribs and melt-in-your-mouth sliced pork are the respective kings. Stray from the BBQ track at Matsu for fresh sushi in trendy Westport; down the street is Harry's Bar and Tables, where convivial bartenders sling more than 20 scotches and tasty bar food in a more dignified setting than some wilder neighbors; Sharaz serves eclectic Meditteranean with a diverse wine list; suburban 40 Sardines offers contemporary American cuisine with classic French touches, hectic for dinner so hit it for lunch instead (order the to-die-for short rib sandwich).

Where To Hang: T&L Golf says hit the Crossroads district (centered near 19th St & Southwest Blvd) for a resurgent arts community worth a couple hours; take in the European feel of the bridges and fountains that dominate Country Club Plaza; the Grand Emporium is one of the nation's best live music clubs; Phoenix Piano Bar & Grill is a dark and gritty downtown music venue; the Blue Room (in the 18th & Vine district) adjacent to the American Jazz Museum is worth a drink or two; Harling's Upstairs (Westport) hosts a booze-soaked afternoon Blues bash Saturdays; the Mutual Musician's Foundation Jazz Jams start around 1 AM Saturday nights and go until dawn; the Kemper Musuem of Art opened in 1994 and is quickly building a collection; the Negro Leaugue Baseball Museum; and Arrowhead Stadium, home of the Kansas City Chiefs, is legendary for some of the most passionate and festive fans, and K.C.'S BBQ tradition puts it near the top of the list of the most kick-ass tailgate spreads in pro football.

Where To Stay: T&L Golf likes Country Club Plaza's venerable Fairmont, considered K.C.'s best. OR Art deco masterpiece Hotel Phillips circa 1931 recently underwent a $20 million renovation, giving the property sleekness while maintaining an old world charm. Check out the trendy 12 Baltimore Lounge downstairs.