Harbour Town GL @ Sea Pines Resort
Hilton Head Island, SC
1970, Pete Dye & Jack Nicklaus
Heritage 6916, 74.0, 136, 71
Men's 6119, 70.0, 126, 71
Fees: ~$225
#12 on Golf Digest's 2000 Top 100 You Can Play. Home of the PGA Tour's MCI Classic.
T&L Golf Review: HARBOUR TOWN GOLF LINKS
11 Lighthouse Lane, Hilton Head Island; 800-955-8337, www.seapines.com. Yardage: 6,973. Par: 71. Slope: 146. Architect: Pete Dye with Jack Nicklaus, 1969. Greens Fees: $179-$250. T+L GOLF Rating: ****1/2
Playing Harbour Town is like downing eighteen straight espressos: Each tastes equally good and yet you become ever jumpier. The agony and the ecstasy of this masterwork is that there's absolutely no letdown, not a single "let it fly" shot. It's as exacting as a New Yorker copy editor. The par threes are justifiably renowned as one of golf's best collections, all as precise (like the "split the oak uprights to the faux island green" seventh) as the famous waterfront seventeenth is gorgeous. It's the two- and three-shot holes, however, that are for us the heart of the course: Placement, trajectory and curvature must always be controlled for any chance of finding and holding the wee greens in regulation. One minor caveat: The conditioning on our last visit was fine, but not quite worthy of the big ticket—a longstanding issue here.
#17
Golfcourse.com Review: The Harbour Town Golf Links, which is home to the PGA Tour's MCI Heritage Classic, offers 18 memorable holes that require classic and demanding shots. The fairways were built on flat terrain and are lined by pine trees. The small greens are slightly sloped and have medium speed. The signature hole is #18, a 478-yard, par 4, requiring a long tee shot to a wide landing area jutting into Calibogue Sound. The customary rule is to aim your tee shot at the lighthouse, but beware of the out-of-bounds stakes lining the right side of the fairway. The Ocean Course, which was redesigned by Mark McCumber in September, 1995, is longer in distance, and said to be tougher than the "old" Ocean Course. The Sea Marsh Course was remodeled in 1990 by architect Clyde Johnston, and it course winds through lush forest and alongside tidal marshes. The fairways are tree lined but fairly wide, and the greens are well bunkered. The signature hole is #13, a 163-yard, par 3, requiring a tee shot over water to a well-bunkered and small green.
Fat Guy Notes: I've been to Hilton Head just once, on a Spring Break in college since my then-roommate Craig grew up here. We drank a bunch of Bud and vodka all week, and I think I'll remember a slightly-buzzed cruise around the back roads of the island on a starlit summer night piled in the back of his buddy Sam's beat-up '65 baby blue Mustang convertible with my arm around one of the girls we drug along as long as I live. We also snuck on a couple uber-exclusive country club courses Carl-Spackler-style in the wee hours of the morning, but at the time I was nowhere near being able to afford playing Harbortown (at least during daylight). We didn't even eat out much, plus my visit was a few years ago now. So here's what I've gathered in research from various golf mags and other sources:
Best Bar Nearby, Mid-island: Try the Old Oyster Factory (843-681-6040) on the water. It's an open space, loud and lots of fun.
Where To Booze & Grub: Word had it that Primanti's Bros. of Pittsburgh opened up a sandwich shop here, which would have been a Must Eat, but it may have closed again from what I've heard. Here are some local favorites per T&L Golf: Don't miss one of the two Reilley's Pubs. Family-owned local favorites, one is just off Sea Pines Circle (843-842-4414) in the south end; the other is at Port Royal Plaza (843-681-4153) mid-island. On the north end, Charlie's Crab (843-342-9066) and The Old Fort Pub (843-681-2386) both offer great seafood and great water views. On the south end, CQ'S (843-671-2779) in Harbour Town has general fare; there's not a bad dish on the menu. Fred Funk recommends the salmon at Chart House. Also, my buddy Craig used to work at Guisseppi's Pizza (The Plaza at Shelter Cove, www.giuseppispizza.com), which he always raved about. TravelGolf.com likes Jim N' Nick's Bar-B-Que in Bluffton. Order the chicken and baked beans.
Per T&L Golf:
STAYING
Sea Pines Resort on-premisis is a beautiful upscale resort with short- and long-term stay options (and price ranges), from the Inn at Harbour Town to villa rentals.
In town for a long golf weekend that'll take you all over the island? Think strategy. The island is divided into 3 parts: There's the south end, mid-island and the north end. The island measures only 12 miles by 3 miles, so outside the 10 private, gated communities, traffic is pretty ferocious. Where you stay can have a lot to do with where you choose to play.
If you select south end or mid-island courses, stay in those areas. If you play on the north end or off-island, stay mid-island or in the north end. If you've got a mix, call the pro shop of the various courses and ask how long it will take to get there.
DRIVING
When you arrive, you'll note there are very few easily visible signs and very few traffic lights. The island has tried hard to keep nature and man in balance. This little quirk, combined with the traffic, makes driving quite interesting. Bring your GPS, and be sure you and your companion(s) bring well-charged cell phones. You will get lost. But don't panic. Islanders are a rather helpful lot, so you can always ask for directions. It may not seem "manly," but you'll make your tee time.
And then there's the Cross Island Parkway. You'll see the signs for it as you come onto the island (north end). If you're going to the south end, take it. It costs you a buck, but time- and nerve-wise, it's worth it. Head for the booth with the green light. That's where you pay.