Fat Guy's Scotland Golf Trip

Fat Guy Review: The pentulitimate golf trip is to the birthplace of the game. The one thing I came away with is the feeling that goff in Scotland is a strikingly different game than in the States. It's tough to describe exactly why. Mostly I think it's the firm sandy soil, some of it is the everchanging elements, raw and untamed, some is the course designs, course maintenance, the terrain, the types of grass, the vistas, even the friendly locals... It's a different experience requiring different course management strategies and overall a different mindset than American golf.

My then-77-year-old grandfather and I played our way across Scotland for 9 days back in '96. Step 1 is getting hooked up with a good golf tour company. We went with a company called SGH Golf Tours (www.sghgolf.com), and I have to say they treated us pretty good. We were "self-guided", but they set up the rental car, the B&Bs, and all the tee times. We hit a Who's Who of Scottish golf:

Royal Troon-- I played possibly the best round of my life here (relative to the difficulty of the course), randomly paired with a 6 from Ann Arbor Michigan who raised the level of my game. Holed out once from 40 yards, shot 89, unfortunately with Ray resting back in the hotel after a morning 18 on the sister course. Troon is as true a seaside links as you'll ever play, with the legendary rock formation Ailsa Craig standing guard out in the bay. As the local saying goes, "If ya can see Ailsa Craig, it's about to rain. If ya can't, its already rainin'." Saw Steve Spurrier and his coaching staff in the clubhouse (this was back when he was still at Florida).

North Berwick- Pronounced "North Berr-ick". A sort of Scottish Pebble Beach, and among the quirkiest layouts you'll ever find.  From the dog right tee shot out over the ocean cliffs on the 2nd, to the rock wall guarding the 14th green, to the blind shots, to the massive gully in the 16th green, you'll never play anything else like this, ever.

Prestwick- Home of the first British Open, a quintessential example of Old Tom Morris' quirky genius, and a one-of-a-kind course that would never get built (or be left unchanged) in the U.S. today.  Heaving terrain, bunkers so deep they have steps built into them, blind par-3s with painted rocks for directional markers on top of the hill in front of you, blind camelback par-5s, crazy winds, you name it. Play a Mike Stranz or Stephen Kay design in the States and you'll at least get a feel for the Prestwick-style they're trying to emulate. An original, and quite probably the toughest course I've ever played.

Carnoustie- The nastiest elements I've ever dealt with in a single round.  6 holes of light rain were followed by 3 holes of hail, and 2 holes later I took my jacket off because the sun was out.  As the Scots say, "If you don't like the weather... wait 15 minutes." The history of the place exudes (just try and hit Hogan's Alley). The burn-snaked 18th was a novelty when I played it, even before VanDevelde's famous meltdown there.

St. Andrew's (New)-I wish I remembered more about this round.  I remember thinking, in any other setting (i.e. not next to the Old), this would be a classic links all on it's own merit.  Unfortunately, decent weather and the promise of playing the Old the next day have faded this one too far back in the memory banks.

St. Andrew's (Old)- The pentultimate's pentultimate. Click the link to the left for everything St. Andrew's.

On a subsequent trip I was able to play Gullane #2.  Windiest day I've ever attempted to play.  My pull cart blew over 12 times on the front 9 before I stopped counting.  Don't think I hit a club higher than 6 iron all day.  Nothing more satisfying than stiffing a low running 5 iron from 90 yards.  Great views of the bay from the hilltops.  The best 100 I've ever shot.