Fat Guy's Richmond VA Golf Weekend
I lived in Richmond for 2 years back in the '90's (and have made a couple trips back since), so I know my way around, but it's been a little while. You'll find a surprisingly Southern city for one so close to the Mason/Dixon line (don't forget it was once the capital of the Confederate states; they still call it "The War of Northern Aggression" here). As a transplanted Yankee, I found the prevailing attitude to be,"If it don't git done today, it'll git done tomorrow." Richmond does maintain a great sense of history, and has some cool urban renaissance areas like Shockoe Bottom and Cary Street, along with some new sprawl out to the west in Short Pump (which sounds redneck, but it's all the chain restaurants and bars you ever wanted to see).
To be perfectly honest, if I was going to make the drive to this area and spend good money for a golf weekend, I'd rather drive the extra 90 minutes for the better golf scene (and Busch Gardens) in Williamsburg. But if you're going to be in Richmond anyway for say, business or a family visit, then here's how to do Richmond right:
Where To Play:
Belmont GC is a good value warm-up course with a nice sense of history, and was my local haunt while I lived there. Belmont hosted the 1949 PGA Championship which was then a matchplay event, won by Slammin' Sammy Snead. It's the only course in VA to have hosted a USGA major. Not often you can play a course with a Tillinghast/Ross/PGA Championship-type pedigree for this price, but this thing is a long way from its glory days so don't get your hopes up too high. This course features small greens, and a local rule that allows a re-tee if you catch the powerlines on the 1st with your drive. 4 holes were modified slightly when a nearby road was widened, but it still plays nearly the same as the original design. A great value just for the history, and not a bad track on top of that. It sees lots of rounds, so the maintenance isn't perfect, but it's not bad for the greens fees.
Hunting Hawk is a parkland style course designed by architect Bill Love. The course takes advantage of the natural terrain, with many mature trees lining the fairways and natural wetlands. The fairways are generous, with wide landing areas. Strategic play is required in order to steer clear of the many bunkers, moguls and trees. Ponds come into play on eleven holes. The greens are large, undulating and moderate in speed. Several greens are multi-tiered to provide an additional challenge, and all are guarded by a variety of earthworks, from sand bunkers, to mounds and grass hollows.
The Hollows has three 9's that feature a mixture of large and small greens. Water comes into play on 6 holes along with a generous sprinkling of bunkers and younger trees.
Independence GC is a Tom Fazio course. Aside from being the only daily-fee public courses in the state designed by the legendary architect, this state-owned facility is also home to the VA State Golf Association headquarters, a museum dedicated to the history of golfing in Virginia, and an extensive junior golf facility. Fazio's routing is seamlessly blended into the local topography, a mixture of flat and rolling fairways, tree-lined yet wide enough to allow room to breathe. The greens are guarded by well placed bunkers, and water comes into play on several holes in the form of wetlands.
I hesitate to mention Sycamore Creek, but it might be worth a try. While it's a good course with interesting features, fairly good conditions, and some memorable holes (particularly the front 9 stretch routed through a creekside hollow), I did have a bad experience here. My buddy Jeff and I played late AM on a Saturday and proceeded to endure a 2:45 front 9. When we approached management about the pace of play at the turn, their answer was more or less, "And?....", as if a round approaching 6 hours was an acceptable everday occurrence. They did give us a rain check for 9 holes, but I wouldn't go near the place on a weekend due to pace of play issues. Stick to midweek rounds and it might be worth a try.
Best Bars, Richmond: Both bars where I was a regular during my Richmond stint have since closed down, so here's what I know:
Gentlemen's Clubs: Paper Moon (3300 Norfolk, Downtown; 6710 Midlothian Tpke, Southside; 804-674-0790, www.papermoonclub.com). I once picked up a dancer there and took her to Vegas for the weekend. Disastrous trip, but a great story. Or Pure Pleasure (68 Labrook Cnc, Southside, 804-232-5711).
Sports bars: Glory Days (10466 Ridgefield Pkwy, West End; 6151 Harbourside Centre Lp, Southside); Champps (9202 Stony Pt Pkwy, 10 mins S of downtown); Buffalo Wild Wings (7801 W Broad West End; 1501 E Cary, Shockoe Bottom); Mulligan's (1323 Main, downtown); & Hooter's (1211 Huguenot, Southside; 2401 W Hundred Rd, Chester; 7912 W Broad).
Microbrews: Legend Brewing's Brown Ale is a full bodied, malt forward British brown ale with mahoghany tones and hints of carmel, toasted nuts, coffee, and molasses, and finally fruity undertones from Legends' house yeast strain. Order one up at Legend Pub and Restaurant (321 W 7th, www.legendbrewing.com) on their riverside patio with Richmond skyline views across the James River.
Shockoe Bottom is the best downtown pub & grub district, although an '04 flood wiped out many former hotspots. Hit Tonic (14 N 18th St, 804-648-4300) for serious martinis and a cutting-edge wine list. Try the house-specialty drinks: Champagne & Strawberries, or a Carmel Kiss.
Where To Grub: Downtown, you gotta get to Joe's Inn. Great little unassuming Italian joint, outstanding house dressing, and try the Spaghetti ala Joe, baked with mozarella on top. Avoid the meatballs. Tobacco Company in Shockoe Bottom (12th & Cary, www.thetobaccocompany.com) is a popular upscale spot set in an open 3-story former tobacco warehouse. A little fern-bar-ish and full of Yuppies, but good food in a nice setting. Way off the beaten path is Mammazu (Spruce & Pine, Oregon Hill; check out Southern folk-rockers Cowboy Junkies' tune "Oregon Hill"), a hole-in-the-wall with great Italian. Order veal marsala and the rockfish, family-style. Strawberry Street Cafe has a great Sunday brunch, a salad bar in a bathtub, and the best Snicker's pie on the planet. VA-based regional seafood chain Awful Arthur's (101 N 18th; 7408 W Broad) brings former locals back. For BBQ, try Double T's for Best Of Richmond BBQ (2907 W Cary, across from Byrd Theatre), or in the Western 'burbs, hit Extra Billy's Smokehouse & Brewery (1110 Alverser, Midlothian, www.extrabillys.com), with a bar that features microbrew taps in the belly of a pig. Post last-call, hit 3rd Street Diner (218 E Main) for a taste of Richmond's college freak set. For the best pizza in town, hit Bottom's Up in Shockoe Bottom.
Where To Stay: If you're liquid, the historic Jefferson Hotel has been a bastion of genteel Southern hospitality for generations, with a staircase rumored to have inspired the one in the film Gone With The Wind.
Further Distractions: Carytown is the local artists' hang, with unique shopping. Hit Carytown's Byrd Theater for $1 2nd-run movies with the 1930's interior and pipe organ still intact, and the popcorn girls wear flapper costumes. Atlanta Braves' AAA farm club is a family-friendly outing (check the home schedule at www.rbraves.com). Tour a typical Southern estate at Berkeley Plantation (Rt 5, 22 mi E of Richmond, 888-466-6018). Hollywood Cemetery has plenty of history. The Civil War Visitors Center (5th & Tredegar) starting at Tredegar Iron Works is a nice walk. Or check out the cool coasters at nearby King's Dominion Amusement Park (www.kingsdominion.com).