The good news first:  The design team of Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, known for their minimalist approach, did a complete remodel of #2 in 2011.  After much soul searching, they decided to eschew the modern manicured look and take the course back to it's more natural Ross links roots--what today's marketers have us calling "rustic"--based on vintage aerial photographs and original irrigation patterns.  "This is how Ross designed it," they said.  Pinehurst No. 2 now has no rough – Coore & Crenshaw stripped out nearly every inch of it, replacing it with natural sand, wiregrass, and pine straw areas that the course originally had. Interestingly, this rough removal / natural area replacement has apparently produced another major change – fairway widths that have increased an average of 50 to 60 yards, opening up more “strategic playing options.” [GolfVacationInsider.com]

While #2 is often the central reference point for design characteristics attributed to Ross courses, I found a 2007 Golf Course Architecture article to be a fascinating contradiction... After a careful study of Ross courses by a modern architect who found many of today's Donald Ross Society's own members to be misguided by overly-simplified Ross course "traits" (often generating from #2), they claim that some of #2's most famous features didn't generate with Ross... the famed turtleback greens were a result of the single swipe of Pinehurst's 1970's management company's bulldozer cutting off the ledges on the edges of the original Ross greens to reduce maintenance... the shaved-down swales and green surrounds couldn't have been originally designed by Ross as such, since it wouldn't have even been possible to cut such areas with the mowing equipment of the early 1900's; they were originally designed to be covered in rough and a tough test of a golfer's chipping game... and the flat-bottomed, grass-lined bunkers many associated with Ross at #2 were originally designed to be sandy flashes as you see above; the grass-facing was the result of the greenskeeper trying to reduce maintenance costs back in the 1950's.

Now the bad news: You have to stay at the pricey Pinehurst Resort (www.pinehurst.com) to get an advance tee time on the famed #2. Their 2012 high season golf "packages" for a single night and a round on #2 run $574-$690--for double occupancy--plus taxes and resort fees. Ouch. Some of my web sources claim the resort has relaxed the access restrictions for #2 during the economic downturn, but only for last-minute/next day tee times (no advance booking). It's worth a phone call if you're in the area, though greens fees will still push the $250-$400 range.

Per Golf Vacation Insider:  "After No. 2, our first choice would be No. 4, a Tom Fazio design whose every hole offers unique variety, beauty…and challenge. It’s dotted with 180 sand traps, most of which are small pot bunkers clustered near fairway landing areas, at the bends of doglegs, and around the greens.

Nipping close at its heels is No. 8, a slightly more mounded and rolling Fazio design built in 1996 to celebrate Pinehurst’s centennial anniversary. Its greens lack the severity of No. 2, yet their subtle crowns honor Ross’ memory and roll fast and true. Some would argue that No. 8 deserves second-best status at Pinehurst Golf Resort, and you won’t hear us protest too much. In part, we give the nod to No. 4 as it is so easily walkable and located at the central clubhouse."

Traditionalists interested in an authentic throwback Pinehurst experience will favor #1 and #3, both designed by Donald Ross.

"Originally established in 1895 as a health retreat, golf came to Pinehurst (accidentally, actually) in 1897 when resort guests were spotted hitting white balls into the cow pasture. Founder James Walker Tufts asked a local doctor, Leroy Culver, to plot out the resort's first official holes for this emerging pastime. When Donald Ross arrived in 1900 from Scotland, it was transformed into a proper 18-hole course, which eventually became #1. Today, despite the boundless improvements to technology, the course's modest 6,093 yards and traditional design qualities remain a pleasant challenge. With minimal bunkering (often just to coral off-line shots from rolling off the golf course) plus smaller, flat greens, there isn't much that pops out at you on No. 1. The green complexes, seeded with similar Penn G-2 bentgrass as Pinehurst No. 2, have the occasional run-off area, but they're generally more benign than No. 2. Also adding to the traditionalist vibe, there are virtually no water hazards to speak of, unless you top your drive on the par-3 11th hole -- a 220-plus-yard brute. If you need any more evidence this course was built in another era, the 18th hole is a mild 152-yard par 3. Pinehurst No. 1 is an old gem in a new world of golf course technology. It's certainly been passed up by a century of newer, bigger golf courses. But the best golf course at less than 6,100 yards? Pinehurst No. 1 could certainly throw its hat in the ring. Unlike some other courses that date back to the early part of the 20th century, No. 1 never really feels all that cramped to the modern golfer. Playing corridors, while framed by Carolina pines, are still wide enough to at least toss the idea out there to hit the big stick. This is also a great option for a leisurely afternoon round. Course officials say less than four hours is usually the norm and 4 hours, 20 minutes is about as long as it gets." [TravelGolf.com]

"No. 6 is our choice for the best unheralded course at Pinehurst Golf Resort. Designed by George Fazio in 1979 with alterations by Tom Fazio in 1991, No. 6 commands hilly — often severe — terrain with steep falloffs and thick vegetation bordering several fairways. This is one Pinehurst golf course that consumes golf balls. And, although it’s set in a residential community with frequent out-of-bounds, No. 6 remains elegant and picturesque." [GolfVacationInsider.com]

In 2011, Pinehurst Resort also purchased The Pit, a 1985 Dan Maples design that had been a keystone building block in the development of the extreme target golf movement that began in the 1980's, and eventually led to target masterpieces like Mike Stranz' nearby Tobacco Road. However, The Pit went bankrupt and closed, after the economic downturn in the late Ott's killed off the excess demand for golf following the Tiger Boom of the '90's. It was then bought by Pinehurst Resort, as the course was essentially a donut hole in middle of the resort's other properties. Industry experts say The Pit's former layout is unlikely to become "Pinehurst #9" anytime soon, if ever, as the dormant infrastructure would require a significant overhaul including a new irrigation system.

Where To Play Outside Pinehurst Resort:

**Note: The greens fees listed below are approximations as of high season Mar-May 2011

There's plenty of other public courses to keep you busy if you don't stay at the resort.  In fact, there's upwards of 35 well-rated public/resort courses in the area outside the Pinehurst gates.  Here's how to do a Sandhills weekend right if staying elsewhere:

Good Values

The North Carolina Golf Panel (comprised of 135 members of the North Carolina golf media, club pros and managers, accomplished amateurs, and college coaches) ranked their 2011 Best Bang For Your Buck Courses in Pinehurst:

1. Southern Pines Golf Club, Southern Pines
2. Seven Lakes Country Club, Seven Lakes
3. Little River Golf Club, Carthage
4. Tobacco Road Golf Club, Sanford
5. Hyland Hills Golf Club, Southern Pines 

Beacon Ridge  West End NC  www.beaconridgegolfcc.com 

4 stars by Golf Digest, classic parkland, very little water.  A good “first round of the year” course.

Greens Fees:  March to mid-May:  ~$75 Weekend, ~$65 Weekday

Seven Lakes  Seven Lakes NC  www.sevenlakescountryclub.com

Pine-lined, plenty of water hazards, contoured fairways, island tee on 15^th,  4 stars by Golf Digest.

Greens fees:  $?

Southern Pines  Southern Pines NC  www.southernpinesgc.com

Classic Donald Ross, highly regarded by course critics, typical Pinehurst rolling sandy terrain, tough holes followed by birdie opportunities.

Greens fees:  $?

Legacy-  Aberdeen NC   www.legacygolfnc.com

Jack Nicklaus design, Top 50 public courses Golf World, wide fairways, minimal bunkering, a few approach carries, brand new greens.  A tough 18th features a downhill approach over a pond and flagstone wall.

Greens Fees:  Mar ~$85 weekend $69 weekday, Apr-early May ~$99 weekend $85 weekday, late May ~$85 weekend $69 weekday

Longleaf- Southern Pines NC www.longleafgolfclub.com  “Most playable in Pinehurst,” short, some features leftover from former horse training grounds, rolling elevations, a couple water carries.

Greens fees:  ~$89

One of my buddy Mark’s friends bragged up the value at Woodlake’s Arnold Palmer and Dan Maples 18’s (www.woodlakeCC.com), saying he often makes the drive down from Raleigh to play 36 holes for around $60, but you have to sign up for their email specials.

Upscale:

Tobacco Road    Sanford NC  www.tobaccoroadgolf.com

Tobacco Road is my favorite course in the U.S., period.  Golf Digest called it “Pine Valley as seen through a fun house mirror.”  Built on a former sand quarry site, target design genius Mike Stranz fashioned an Irish-style links with heaving sand dunes, cart paths that spill randomly into massive waste areas, blind shots, “fish hook” risk/reward par-5’s, and railroad tie stairs built into bunkers.  It’s a challenge, but it’s bark is worse than its bite as wide landing areas await high-handicappers on the other side of blind shots and tight-necked hazards, and there’s only one water hazard.  The most fun I’ve ever had on a U.S. golf course (with my clothes on).

Greens Fees:  Mar-Apr $134 Weekend, $107 Weekday.  May $89 Weekend, $69 Weekday

Pinewild CC Pinehurst NC www.pinewildcc.com

Magnolia Course: Local favorite, Top 5 Pinehurst Magazine poll, LPGA Tour host.

Holly Course: Gary Player design, fewer bunkers but more water than the sister course, waste areas, slightly easier than Magnolia.

Greens fees:  ~$135

Pine Needles L&GC  Pinehurst NC  www.pineneedles-midpines.com

The biggest "name" course in Pinehurst outside the resort. 36 classic Donald Ross holes, restored in 2004, 3-time U.S. Women’s Open host. 

Pine Needles Course:   $165-235 Weekend, $140-$205 Weekday

Mid-Pines Course:  $125-$180 Weekend, $105-$150 Weekday 

Where To Booze & Grub:  Most of the area bars and restaurants are concentrated in two areas; the first being the Pinehurst Village Historic District, a unique mix of New England and Southern architecture, with winding, park-like streets located across the street from Pinehurst Resort. Pinehurst's offerings include vintage taverns and Continental restaurants, while Southern Pines (15 minutes to the Southeast) is home to several local steakhouses, seafood restaurants, typical mid-scale chains, and a few fun bars. The overall vibe in the area is a bit more relaxed, country-refined, and early-morning-tee-time-oriented than the Myrtle Beach's of the world. So the nightlife is more on the mellow side, and the sidewalks tend to roll up a tad earlier, especially on weeknights. Weekends bring live music at many area bars.

What To Drink: Live the full Southern cliche' by sipping a Mint Julep in a rocking chair on the Pinehurst Resort's Ryder Cup Lounge veranda. Go the sweet tea route with a takeoff on an Arnold Palmer called a John Daly: a double shot of Firefly Sweet Tea vodka mixed with lemonade. So good, you don't even know you're drinking. It's actually dangerous. Microbrew lovers will dig local Rail House Pale Ale or Honey Wheat for perfect hot-weather session beers, or their heartier Oatmeal Stout after those chilly shoulder-season rounds, brewed in nearby Aberdeen (www.railhousebrewery.com).

Best 19th Holes:  Pinehurst Resort's Ryder Cup Lounge made Golf Digest's 2008 50 Best 19th Holes list. Named after the 1951 matches there, is just off the lobby of the resort's Carolina hotel; intimate bar and "great rocking chairs" on the attached veranda; "I'm waiting for Walter Hagen to wander in and order a drink." And it's not a bad spot for pub grub, either.

TravelGolf.com ranked the rest of Pinehurst Resort's 19th holes: "At the main clubhouse, home to Pinehurst No. 1 through Pinehurst No. 5, you can grab a drink at the Donald Ross Grill or adjacent, smaller 91st Hole. It's small given how many golfers play here, but there are spots on the patio to relax and watch some golf - or lawn bowling or croquet if you've always been curious. Please, no heckling the croquet players. A better option is to head to the Holly Inn's Tavern (take a quick shuttle there from the main clubhouse). It has just a couple tables and a small bar inside and is where many players stay and drink during the U.S. Open. In warmer months, the action spills out onto the patio, where golfers take in a late-afternoon cigar. Stop here for a drink before dining at the 1895 Grille, home to what I can confidently proclaim as the world's finest Mac n' Cheese: aged white cheddar cheese mixed with lobster chunks and broccolini. Yes, it's better than it sounds. Pinehurst No. 6's and Pinehurst No. 7's clubhouses are the weakest of the bunch at Pinehurst, but Pinehurst No. 8 is a stand-alone facility opened in 2005 that offers every player a member-for-the-day experience. It's worth sticking around for drinks in rocking chairs on the back patio that serves up a picturesque setting at sunset (no real estate on 450 acres of forest and wetlands), while there's also a restaurant and bar inside."

The North Carolina Golf Panel ranked their 2011 "Best 19th Holes in Pinehurst" to include Pine Needles Lodge and Golf Club, Pinehurst Resort, Forest Creek Golf Club, Country Club of North Carolina, and Mid Pines Inn and Golf Club.

Best Golf Bar, Off-Resort: Mr. B's Lounge (or the adjacent porch) at The Pinecrest Inn (www.pinecrestinnpinehurst.com) is also a great spot for a beer after a round. The Inn was once part-owned by Donald Ross himself. The small, homey hotel features nightly singalongs around the piano, a throwback to a simpler time. Named one of Golf Magazine's 2003 "50 Coolest Places In Golf", it also made Golf Digest's 2008 50 Best 19th Holes list: "Mr. B's Lounge is 'the watering hole for about 43 courses in the area'; decorated with photos and paintings of former owner Donald Ross; fireplace has a wooden slab with a bull's-eye hole: 'Chip balls through the hole; loser buys the drinks.'"

Best Bars, Pinehurst Village:  Other than resort and hotel bars & grills, Dugan's Pub is nearly all the Village offers in terms of nightlife. Walking distance from the "downtown" hotels and inns, Dugan's offers pub fare (including homemade potato chips) and a good beer selection (including a rarity in the South: Guinness on tap). TravelGolf.com says, "The place in the village to finish off the night is Dugan's, the largest of the pubs, and it features both an upstairs bar, dining room and downstairs bar, which often has live music and karaoke. To get downstairs we paid a $2 cover. It's by far the liveliest joint for locals. It's dark and loud, and it'll be last call before you know it - and thus realizing you're teeing off in just a matter of hours."  Also check out Hacker's Bar & Grill, The Manor Inn, or the Hickory Tavern (9735 US Hwy 15/50).

Upscale Dining, Pinehurst Village:  1895 ROOM (American) The Holly Inn, Pinehurst; 910-295-6811. $$$ "No matter where you stay, you should reserve a table at the 1895 Room, the exceptional restaurant operated in what was once the atrium-covered carriage entrance to the hotel. The food reflects the Pinehurst spirit as a mix of New England and North Carolinian cuisine. The menu changes seasonally, but look out for Jugtown oysters with andouille sausage, spinach, sambuca and fontina cheese as a starter and the roast tenderloin of veal with blue-crab hash and hollandaise sauce."  MAGNOLIA INN RESTAURANT (American) 65 Magnolia Road, Pinehurst; 800-526-5562. $$$ "Another of the finest restaurants in the area is located in an inn, but even if you're not staying at the Magnolia, you're always welcome here. Fantastic food and a cozy setting. Try the rack of lamb or Atlantic salmon." [T&L Golf].  For Italian, head 20 minutes out to the Seven Lakes for the Italian Table Restaurant (www.italiantablerestaurant.com), serving everything from Penne Quatro Fromaggio to Beef Wellington. Elliott's On Linden (www.elliottsonlinden.com) also gets nods for their farm-to-table cuisine, with a rotating menu based on the best of what local farms are producing that week.

Midscale Dining, Pinehurst Village:  The best wings in Pinehurst are at the Scottish-style Darling House Pub & Grill (40 Chinquapin Road). Recommended by native Buffalonians, and try the Beef On Wyck too. Locals say Maxie's Grill and Tap Room (35 McIntyre Rd) has "killer food, and it's a great place to have a beer and watch a game or a golf tournament."

Best Bars, Southern Pines:  Broad Street Bar and Grill (715 SW Broad, www.facebook.com/pages/Broad-Street-Bar-Grill/113501068684516).  "This local's favorite is a great place to hang out and watch the game, have a burger and a beer, or dance the night away on the week end. Broad Street Bar and Grill is open for lunch during the week with grilled chicken sandwiches, killer burgers, reubens and wings among other things. The laid back atmosphere and cozy pub style environment are just the cure for a long work week or a busy morning. Come as you are and relax with a cold beer and great food. Stop in and See Phil or Pops and they'll take care of you." The only Gentlemen's Club we found in the area was Pure Gold in Southern Pines, across the street from Shoney's on US 1; $12 cover, $4.50 beers, strong talent, tame $20 couch dances, crowded weekends.

Upscale Dining, Southern Pines:  JFR Barn (www.jfrbarn.com) is an unpretentious Southern Pines steak tradition that's been going strong since 1974, and yes, it's housed in an old barn. For seafood, locals head for Shucker's Oysters Bar & Grill (www.shuckersgrill.com). Rhett's (www.rhettsinc.com) gets rave on-line reviews for a limited Southern menu ($15-$22). Try the house-specialty trout or Southern-style chicken cordon-bleu.

Mid-Scale Dining, Southern Pines:  The Squire's Pub (1720 US Hwy 1 South, Southern Pines; 910-695-1161 $$) "The Squire's Burger has been rated the best in town, and out on the course you might overhear locals setting wagers for the delicious fish-and-chip dinners. More than 40 beers available, with many ales imported from England. Closed Sundays." [T&L Golf]. For those jonesing for steak but on a hamburger budget, Sagebrush Steakhouse (www.sagebrushsteakhouse.com) offers steaks for as little as $10, as well as scaling up to their $23 prime rib.

Best BBQ:  While there are nearly a dozen local BBQ joints in town, in a region famous for it's own style of vinegar-based BBQ sauce, overall reviews from local foodies said most Pinehurst BBQ tends towards mediocre. Two places stood out in on-line reviews: Dine-O-Mite.com says, "The Pik-N-Pig in Carthage (15 minutes north of Pinehurst, www.pik-n-pig.com) actually sits on a small airport reminiscent of the '80’s show Wings. Built out of what were the old Carthage Post Office and a building from Sandhills Community College, which were moved to the airport, Pik N Pig is sited just next to the runway. The pulled pork sandwich had a tender ropiness flecked with charred bits of the outer crust, offered with the traditional Carolina vinegar-based sauce or a more traditional tomato-based sweet sauce. The cornbread with jalepeno butter made the meal. Or Jackson Bros. BBQ (2440 Jefferson Davis Hwy, Sanford, www.jacksonbros.com, near Tobacco Road). The spartan little former ice cream stand is easy to miss, and everything is 'to go' so you'll have to eat in the car in the gravel parking lot. But Jackson's had better pulled pork than the Pik-N-Pig, and the hush puppies were unique and tasty. Perfect for a quick lunch on your way back to Raleigh-Durham Airport."

Where To Stay:  If you can afford the accomodations on the golf package, the lodging at the Pinehurst Resort (www.pinehurst.com) is top notch, and also required to land a tee time at #2. The real heartbeat of the Pinehurst area is the Village Green, a small town reminiscent of New England charm. Guests of The Manor Inn also receive playing privledges at Pinehurst #1, #3, #5, and #8. The town’s center is within walking distance to some of the finest old-world hotels in the South, including the Pine Crest Inn mentioned above.

Off-resort and on a budget, we stayed at the Hampton Inn (1675 US Hwy 1 S, Southern Pines, 910-692-9266). Clean, comfy, and it's stumbling distance to Pure Gold.

Buddy-trippers can also find plenty of golf condos for rent on-line that would be perfect for a foursome or two.

Golf Packages:  There are several local golf packagers that can get you some good deals on lodging, greens fees, and even meals.  Check out www.sandhillsgolf.com, www.tobaccoroadtravel.com, or www.homeofgolf.com. Request a copy of their snail mail catalogues for perusing on the thone; the pictures make it a much more pleasant way to shop for courses.

Download the Pinehurst Golf Travel App for I-Phone at:  http://bit.ly/x5fjbG.