Fat Guy's Ocean City MD Golf Weekend
If This Is A Honky-Tonk Haven, Then Color Me Honky
(that's funnier if you read T&L Golf's review of Ocean City golf first)
Fat Guy Review: When folks on the mid-Atlantic seaboard use the abbreviation "O.C.", they don't mean the enclave of suburban angst called Orange County California, made famous by the Fox TV series. They mean Ocean City, as in Ocean City, Maryland, aka O.C.M.D. (and not to be confused with Ocean City, NJ).
OCMD is an old stompin' grounds of mine: took family vacations there from ages 2-15, worked on the boards a summer in college, did boys-week post-college vacations there for a few years, plus more than a few golf weekends and family vacations since, and even got married down there once (oops), so I'd consider myself a fairly qualified tour guide for Ocean City. It's a clean, family-friendly resort town, and geared a little more towards blue collars than white. The charm of the place lies in its' notstalgically old-school character, particularly still evident on the boardwalk. New condo towers, golf courses, restaurants, and fun party spots help to balance the new millenium against the lingering post-WWII vibe.
FAT GUY'S OCMD LONG WEEKEND ITINERARY
Let's assume you're coming to OCMD during the season, when most everything is open. Drive in Thursday night after work and get checked into your digs. If your golf buddies are the type who regress back to their high school selves the minute they're out of the house without the wife-&-kids/girlfriend... on the north end of town try the bar grub at Kirby's (94th & Coastal Hwy). If there's not an open table at Kirby's, hit the lively Bull On The Beach sportsbar across the street for the 1/2 pound of steamed shrimp tossed with Old Bay. Down towards the boardwalk hit Pickle's Pub (9th & N. Philadelphia) for a solid joint with numerous pool tables.
FRIDAY:
Rise and shine early for eggs and Bloody's at Dr.Unk's (9636 Stephen Decautur Hwy aka Rt. 611, West Ocean City, www.drunksoc.com), a classy little bar that opens for breakfast at 6AM for the golfing crowd.
For spring golf trips, you'll want a good warm-up course to shake off the winter rust. Something suitably beachy, but hardly some bland rinky-dink track you'd find back home. Head for Ocean City Golf & Yacht Club's Newport Bay Course (www.ocgolfandyacht.com). Bring an extra layer and a good windshirt to fend off the bay breezes until the sun burns off the morning chill. A few typical inland parkland holes increase in difficulty as you approach the bayside stretch, where cross-winds and soft spring turf begin to make club selection difficult (club up 2 on the water and adjust from there). The routing builds to a crescendo on tough bayside finishing holes requiring ballsy shots over plenty of water, sand, and marshland.
OCG&Y's Newport Bay #18
Just for fun, play the 18th from the black tees to see if you can carry 240 over the bay from a peninsula tee to an angled fairway in bay winds.
If you have the family in tow, you're in luck. There's probably more All-American family fun to be had here than anywhere outside Mickeytown (although for the life of me, I don't quite get the preponderance of beach towns filled with Russian and Ukrainian workers these days--whatever happened to beach jobs being the coveted All-American summer college gig?). Family entertainment options include endless mini-golf with creative themes, Old West hi-jinks like panning for gold plus waterslides at Frontiertown (Rt. 611 West OC, www.frontiertown.com), go-carts galore, wet-n'-wild kids adventure cruises on the Duckaneer pirate ship (410-289-3500, www.talbotstreetpier.com), rides for the under-10 crowd at Jolly Roger Amusement Park, plus Jolly Roger's massive Splash Mountain water area (30th & Coastal Hwy, www.jollyrogerpark.com), another fun water park at Fenwick's Thunder Bay (Rt. 54 & Coastal Hwy, DE, 302-539-4027), and kid-friendly bayside dining in the sand at Fish Tales (21st & bayside, www.ocfishtales.com). Spend rainy days at Laser Storm laser tag, the golf simulator at Ocean Resorts GC (play famous worldwide courses next to the bar while it details your swing path and clubface angles on every shot-- I learned more about my golf swing on their simulator than I have in most lessons I've taken), Ripley's Believe It Or Not at the Inlet, Old Time Photos (3 OC locations), or local movie theaters. For your golf widow, the area's selection of day spas is a little thin, but you can get a nice massage at Creative Day Spa (www.creativedayspa.com, 410-250-8664) or Visions Day Spa (12207 Coastal Hwy, www.visionsdayspa.com, 410-250-5188), and do quality outlet shopping (www.ocean-city.com/shopping/) in West OC (www.ocfactoryoutlets.com) or nearby Rehobeth DE (www.tangeroutlet.com).
And you can't come here and not hit the boards. OCMD's boardwalk (www.ocboards.com) is my sentimental favorite, and Travel Channel ranks it right up there in America's Top 5 along with places like Atlantic City and Wildwood, NJ. Nothing beats the summertime sights (ahem) and sounds of OC's boardwalk, but for me it's the smells that really spark up nostalgia of family vacations back in the day. Warm-summer-night-saltwater air, combining with the burnt oil smell of creosote from the boards, the occasional whiff of coconutty Coppertone, further mixed in with plumes of intoxicating fryer scents like french fries and funnel cakes, followed by the sugary aura of the cotton candy stands. Throw in the endless t-shirt shops, callers from games of chance beckoning you to join in, and the rides on the pier (www.ocpierrides.com) cranking pop tunes. In your mind's eye you'll be right back chasing teenage girls with the buddy you drug along for your family vacation with your grandparents. Don't we all wish.
For pure boardwalk guilty pleasures, hit the warm buttery-carmel goodness of Fisher's Carmelcorn (@ Talbot, www.fisherspopcorn.com), then order a large tub of their highly addictive white cheddar flavor to go. Get some hand-cut Thrasher's Fries (@ the Inlet since 1929, also N 4th) splashed with vinegar, salt water taffy from Dolle's (@ the inlet, www.dolles.com) or Candy Kitchen (multiple OC locations, www.candykitchens.com), and some Boog Powell's Barbeque (@ the Inlet) imported from Baltimore's Camden Yards.
Then check out the crazy mish-mash of wall art piled high for sale at Ocean Gallery (@ 2nd, www.oceangallery.com).
Oddly, I've never found the classic tasty boardwalk pizza joint here that'll keep you coming back year after year (ala Mack's in Wildwood). Lombardi's (94th & Coastal Hwy, www.lombardisrestaurant.com) is the best I've found in town, or the Baltimore Sun rates Pino's Pizza (81st St & Coastal Hwy, delivery anywhere in OC, 410-723-3278) as OC's Best.
The perfect 36-hole compliment to Newport Bay is nearby Rum Pointe (www.rumpointe.com). Lunch at Rum Pointe's upscale grill room, then tee it up on a great upscale Pete & P.B. Dye bayside links. The winds coming off the bay play a major role until the back 9 routing ducks back into woods for a few holes, before returning bayside for a watery finish. Rum Pointe features forced lay-ups, long par 5's, blind shots, plenty of water and sand, some serious wood plank cart bridges, seriously hot cart girls, and a tee built on a pier jutting out into the bay.
Rum Pointe #16
It's a tall test for one of the first rounds of the season. Check local guide Sunny Day (www.sunnydayguide.com) for off-season coupons, or call the course about their Triple Crown Summer Special: play Lighthouse Sound, Rum Pointe, and Man O' War for $199--a GREAT deal (must play after 11:30).
By now you're powerful thirsty and hungry, so head for Phillip's Seafood, an Ocean City institution since 1956 (Flagship Original @ 21st St [closed off season], also 13th & Boardwalk, and 141st St & Coastal Hwy, www.phillipsseafood.com). Great steamed Maryland blue crabs, classic crab cakes (Maryland-style or grilled), tasty fish preparations, some of the best fresh warm sourdough rolls on the planet slathered in salty sweet farm fresh butter, and local Evolution Brewery's hand-crafted beer on tap. Anything on the menu featuring crab is outstanding; their crab soup is good enough to be canned for nationwide grocery sales, their crab imperial defines crab imperial, and the crab-stuffed mushroom caps are one of the best apps on the planet. Or just go for the upstairs seafood buffet at the 21st Street location and try everything on the menu. Tip: Go early for dinner, when you can get some great early bird specials, including their famous crab cake platter for $10.
Or try other crab and seafood favorites like Higgin's (31st and 132nd Sts), Mug & Mallet (2nd & Boardwalk), Captain's Table (15th & Boardwalk), Crabcake Factory USA (120th & Coastal Hwy), or Harpoon Hannah's (142nd & bayside).
Tip: Skip Macky's Bayside Bar & Grille on 54th. The beach-edged setting is cool, but the service is terrible and the food is worse.
Fat Guy's Notes on partying following a crab feast: If you've been picking fresh steamed Maryland hardshell blue crab for the past couple hours, you're probably wearing a big ol' grin, still have some crab guts on your shirt, already have a belly half-full of beer, your fingers are nicked up and stinging, and you reek of Old Bay. So first, go shower up, you slob. Don't go out smellin' like that. And B: it feels like you ate a lot, but unless you were gorging on rolls, your stomach really isn't that full. I know from experience that heavy drinking following a crab picking session is done on a surprisingly empty gut, so be careful out there.
Tourist fave, Gotta-Get-The-T-Shirt bars include: Big Peckers (73rd & Coastal Hwy), boardwalk icons Purple Moose, Brass Balls, Bad Ass Cafe, and The Bearded Clam, and Pittsburgh Steelers bar Buxy's Salty Dog Saloon (28th & Coastal Hwy), owned by a guy my Mom taught in school.
Break from the beach theme at a couple newer martini lounges including Jive (82nd & Coastal Hwy) or Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille (66th & Coastal Hwy, www.galaxy66barandgrille.com, entrees $15-$28, top shelf cocktails $7-$10). A stylish novelty in this blue collar resort town, Galaxy looks like it belongs in Malibu rather than OCMD, with upscale fare and creative cocktails amidst a modernist décor with funky lighting, great artwork, OC's Most Creative Menu per local Metropolitan Magazine, and an open air bar on the roof.
Per my buddy Bob who's had a place down here forever, sneak into one of only two OCMD swim-up pool bars at the Holiday Inn (71st Street), where an inch of water covers the bar top, and the barkeep has a clothesline handy for drying off wet cash. For a cheap happy hour, try Coins (28th St & Coastal Hwy) for $1 drafts, $1.75 mixed drinks, $3-a-dozen wings, $4 1/2 lb. shrimp, good crab cakes, and OC's best reuben.
The best club in OCMD is the Big Kahuna / Paddock Partyblock complex (17th & Coastal Hwy, www.partyblock.com/rush). Billing itself as a South Beach-style club, the post-college crowd flocks here for the new pool bar, complete with private cabanas and puffy lounge areas surrounding a pristine pool next to a giant martini glass, and the indoor dance floor shakes after sundown. Or try Club 24 @ Embers (24th & Coastal Hwy, www.embers.com). A slightly older crowd digs the high-rise Ocean Club (@ The Clarion Hotel, 101st & Coastal Hwy) for panoramic top-floor ocean views, good happy hour specials, and hot dancing. Check weekly rag The Beachcomber (www.gobeachcomber.com) for hotspots. Tip: Local DJ Batman has been an OC fixture for decades. Anywhere he's playing will be hoppin' with a mixed-age crowd.
There aren't any Gentlemen's clubs anywhere near here, thus downgrading OCMD as a golfing destination, but there are two Hooters locations (6th & Boardwalk, 122nd & Coastal Hwy) with nice talent, even though their wings suck. Both Seacrets and the Partyblock occasionally host bikini contests.
SATURDAY:
Grab breakfast at TC's Diner, Route 50, West OC. Order the crab omelette.
Sandwiched in between rounds at OC's two premier daily fees, you'll want to throw in a good value round. The area's Best Value is Eagle's Landing (www.eagleslandinggolf.com). Four stars by Golf Digest and $20-$90 cheaper than most area upscale courses. This target bayside adventure by Dr. Michael Hurdzan features plenty of marsh and water, blind shots, fun risk/reward holes, bay winds, huge cart bridges, and a par-3 over an "abandoned" boat, all producing tight matches.
Eagle's Landing #12
A couple non-traditional holes have you hitting 4 iron-5 wood on par 4's, but don't let that fool you. By and large, this is a full-sized adventure. The noise from the nearby local airport noticeable on 4 or 5 holes on the back is offset by the cool visual of small props making low runway approaches right over the 17th green.
Lunch at Smoker's BBQ Pit (9711 Stephen Decautur Hwy aka Rt. 611, 410-213-0040) for award-winning Carolina pulled pork sandwiches and all things BBQ.
The afternoon round today is one of the main reasons you came. Glen Riddle GC's Man O' War (www.glenriddlegolf.com) course is named for the famed thoroughbred trained on the Riddle Horse Farm formerly located here (as were War Admiral and Seabiscuit), before it was converted to an upscale housing and golf complex.
Man O' War #4
To my mind, this windy throwback Scottish links is not only the best course in OCMD, but one of the best modern links you'll find (slightly) inland in this country. The juxtaposition of the horse racing theme combined with old school British Isles golf is an interesting contrast, but Glen Riddle pulls it off nicely. Man O' War is a rumpled flatland, with sandy soil covering plenty of fescue-covered mounds woven among meandering tee complexes (with horseshoes for tee markers), wrinkled fairways with random bunker placements, and elevated greens surrounded by close-mown chipping areas. A rusted starting gate still stands just off the 6th green along the sandy straightaway of a former practice track, which is in play as a hazard on the 6th and 8th holes. The use of bunkering is somewhat minimilist in comparison with many new courses proclaiming themselves to be "links-style", but the randomized trap locations and fairway cambers add a dimension rarely seen in stateside golf. The thoughtful contouring and steady sea breezes make this much more of a true links experience than most modern links designs. Designed by the low-profile Joel Weiman, his routing shifts in and out of the prevailing winds, and asks you to play Scottish rather than American golf (low and creative vs. high and pre-programmed). The rolling greens vary somewhat in size but are generally huge, leaving you the occasional roller-coaster 80-footer reminiscent of British Opens you've seen on TV. The close-cut chipping areas will also have you contemplating a long range Texas wedge or three. The cart path takes a brief swing across the profesionally-landscaped entrance drive and past the community pool, offsetting the distraction from the links experience with views of upscale bikini-clad MILFs. The final 4 holes are cut out of the surrounding woods, but manage to maintain a Scottish flavor. Even at the full-scale $90 greens fees, Man O' War is a bargain compared to pricey sisters Lighthouse Sound and Rum Pointe. At the 1 PM rate of $50 it's a steal, easily the best value in OCMD, and possibly all of the East Coast. Play it soon, before word gets out and it sees enough traffic to justify triple-digit greens fees.
Ask the pro shop politely, and they may also let you on Glen Riddle's tougher, more woodsy private Jim Furyk consult, War Admiral.
The Glen Riddle clubhouse is a unique one, converted from the former stable barn. Housed under the angled open roof lines are a great pro shop, a Ruth Chris Steakhouse (a perfect spot for dinner after the round if you're liquid), and a tony bar next to a couple of the old horse stall doors still intact as décor. At the bar, order the Lemon Meringue martini. For lunch, get the ribeye sandwich, or for dinner, the filet.
For a good happy hour, hit The Greene Turtle West, on Route 611 (12471 W. Ocean City, 410-213-1500, www.greeneturtle.com), an expansion outlet of the original well-known pub at 116th Street. While much of the menu is subpar, their proximity to area courses, cold beer, fairly hot buffalo wings, and 3 pool tables are the main draws for this joint.
Two days of 36 holes and seafood will have you jonesing for some rib-sticking comfort food or a nice steak. Lay down a good drinking base, but don't overstuff yourself in anticipation of tonight's party spot (below). OCMD is not known for it's non-seafood fare, so stick with these local institutions when venturing off the crab track: The Chophouse at Embers is one of OC's finest steakhouses (24th & Coastal Hwy, www.embers.com, reservations recommended). Nick's (145th & Coastal Hwy, www.nickshouseofribs.com) serves good midscale ribs and steak. For Italian, definitely Antipasti (3303 Coastal Hwy, www.ristoranteantipasti.com), named one of the Top 5 Italian restaurants in the country. Head south of the border at Tequila Mockingbird (130th & Coastal Hwy, www.octequila.com, 410-250-4424). Liquid Assets (94th & Coastal Hwy, www.ocliquidassets.com) is part liquor store and part bistro with couches littered throughout, and the kind of place you'd expect Guy Fieri to feature on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Outstanding, creative food, and you have access to the full wine, beer, and booze selection of the liquor store, which will still save you some dough despite the $10 uncorking fee. Can't decide what you're craving? Hit Fenwick DE's House Of Welsh (1106 Coastal Hwy, www.thehouseofwelsh.org, 888-666-0728) for a little of everything. Mondays hit the $5 buffet at Fager's Island. I've never really gotten on a wing kick while in Ocean City, but foodie blogs I've read give first nod to Smitty McGee's wings, with Big Pecker's, Island Cafe, and Kirby's also getting honorable mentions. To save a little money in the budget, a high school buddy of mine owns OC's best spot for subs, Fat Daddy's Sub Shop (216 S Baltimore, www.fatdaddysocmd.com, open late night, tell Ed I said Hi).
Haven't had enough crab and seafood yet? The closest crab houses to Glen Riddle are Hooper's (www.hooperscrabhouse.com), and Captain's Galley (www.occaptainsgalley2.com, order the crab cakes), both in West OC.
OCMD's Must Party, and one of the main reasons to plan a golf weekend here, is the bayside beach bar/club at Seacrets (49th & Bayside, www.seacrets.com).
Yes, this is Ocean City Maryland
Jamaica meets the Assawoman Bay at the coolest outdoor/indoor island-style bar on the Northeastern seaboard, with acres of sand floors, a canopy of palm trees, and half-buried boats for bars. Order a drink to your inner tube while floating on the bay during summer.
Among the frozen house concoctions are my personal favorites, the Rum Runner, the Dirty Banana, and the Pain In De Ass (1/2 Rum Runner, 1/2 Pina Colada, swirled together in a colorful spiral). But be careful; they're nearly $7 apiece, can cause brain freeze, and they'll sneak up on ya over an evening. Try the jerk chicken, good salads too.
Seacrets' ever-growing, rambling complex had managed maintain an organically frivolous feel for years. But in the last few it's crossed the line into more manufactured fun, with the addition of a new entranceway (complete with metal detectors which dump you out at the ATM right before you walk by the merchandise stand), alongside the hoppin' indoor nightclub complete with a light show and their own cameramen showing off the clientele on massive video screens which feed to their website.
The bands I've seen there the past two off-seasons weren't worth the price of admission, but DJ Tuff rocks the joint between band sets. Expect to hunt for a parking spot, pay a cover charge, and bring your ID even if you're 100. The Boomer-Parrotheads-meet-the-college-crowd scene is worth braving the masses. Party holidays like Fat Tuesday and marketed events such as Darkside, Lunasea, and Miss Seacrets draw big crowds, so check the event calendar on the website. Still one of the few bars I've ever been to that breaks my buddy Weasel's rule of "Never go to the same bar two nights in a row," but it's getting closer to becoming a one-night wonder, as the cash-sucking marketing machine has gotten a little too big for its britches. Open all year.
SUNDAY:
By now, you'll be feeling the effects of 36-a-day and a night of partying at Seacrets. Make sure your Sunday tee time is scheduled for late morning or later, and I wouldn't recommend trying 36 holes the day after a night of Rum Runners. Go grab some good hangover grub at Layton's (2 Coastal Hwy locations @ 16th or 93rd, order the crab omlette), or OC's best fresh donuts at the Fractured Prune (28th & Philadelphia, or 9636 Stephen Decatur Hwy aka Rt. 611, West OC, www.fracturedprune.com).
Those looking for more upscale golf will want to play their last round at The Links at Lighthouse Sound (www.lighthousesound.com), a bayside Arthur Hills design with multiple river-and-bayside holes, double greens, the longest cart bridge in the country, pristine conditions, and chock full of risk/reward cape holes. On the 6th, take the 100-yard walk back a crushed-shell path past a perfect little pirate's cove crescent beach to the peninsula Black tee dangled into the bay to see if you can crush a low draw into the wind just to make the fairway.
The Links at Lighthouse Sound #5 overlooks the Assawoman Bay and the OCMD skyline
Ranked by most publications as the #1 course in OCMD, I rank Lighthouse behind behind Glen Riddle's Man O' War, as it's pricey at prime time and therefore not a great value, although the pristine conditions and sweeping bayside views make it easy to see why it's a magazine rater's favorite. Lighthouse once hosted a national made-for-TV event on CBS which pitted Mickelson against an amateur contest winner. Again, check local Sunny Day (www.sunnydayguide.com) for off-season coupons, or call the course for great summer package deals with sister courses Rum Pointe and Man O' War.
Those more interested in value golf and easy logistics will want to play Beach Club Golf Links (www.beachclubgolflinks.com). A classic example of what's happened to the golf industry during the recession, they closed 18 holes at this former 36-hole facility in hopes of using the land to build a McMansion development before the bubble burst in the housing market. Unfortunately the housing development never materialized, and they closed the newer and far more interesting Brian Ault Outer Course, which sadly now sits overgrown. The Inner Course that remains is older, more classic (read: boring), and vaguely Floridian at times, and they've let the maintenance go as revenues have dropped. It's an OK value warm-up round, particularly on the Ruark Golf 3-fer deal, but don't expect great golf.
Beach Club GL
It's location (near the intersection of Routes 50 & 113) makes it an ideal choice for your pre-departure round, regardless of the direction from which you came.
Done. Crank up the satellite radio and put the pedal to the metal, as the inevitable Sunday night home/kids/wife/work anticipation/dread begins to creep back in.
BEST OF THE REST:
A strong addition to the local golfscape is Bayside GC in Fenwick DE (www.golfbayside.com). T&L Golf says: "Jack Nicklaus departs from typical beach golf at Bayside; rather than showcasing the sand with flashed-up bunkering, The Golden Bear tucked it away in small strategic spots, and used tiny elevated greens as another atypical beach course defense." A golfing acquantance with alot of travel experience recently ranked Bayside among his favorite courses anywhere. River Run (11605 Masters Ln, Berlin www.riverrungolf.com) is a challenging Gary Player design, and a hodgepodge of links, wetlands, and woodlands golf with plenty of chocolate drop mounds. Check their website for great deals like a free steak dinner with a weekday round. Deer Run (8804 Logtown Rd, Berlin) is a short-but-fun track shoe-horned into limited acreage, with a nice mix of driveable par-4's and a few all-you-got holes, plus a nasty little bulkhead peninsula par-3 reminiscient of Harbourtown. It also has well-guarded roller-coaster greens, all making it a great value ($40 with website or local rag coupons, www.golfdeerrun.com), but the three finishing holes are weak.
With all these area course options, feel free to skip The Bay Club, Ocean Resorts, and OCG&Y's Seaside course. Regional gems Baywood Greens (well-manicured modern parkland, dripping in colorful floral flourishes, with geometric design touches, tree-lined holes, water carries, an island fairway, and a 2-tier daily-fee pool at the huge neoclassical clubhouse, Long Neck DE, www.baywoodgreens.com), Bear Trap Dunes (windy wetlands faux-links, Ocean View DE, www.beartrapdunes.com), Hog Neck (pinched fairways, slanted bunker clusters, and sloped greens on a former hog farm, Easton MD, www.hogneck.com), Great Hope (isolated links holes, Scottish bunkering, coastal breezes, marsh carries, true greens, native grasses, and wildflowers, Westover MD, www.greathopegolf.com), and Harbourtowne (Pete Dye, wide open front, winding tree-lined back, a Love-It-Or-Hate-It special, St. Michaels MD, www.harbourtowne.com) are well worth a round, but they're all around an hour's drive outside OCMD. Hit any of them on your way into or out of town.
When To Go: The golf season runs pretty much from mid-April through late October, although overall OC is more of a year-round town than it was even 5 years ago. The majority of bars and restaurants now stay open all year. Many boardwalk shops stay open until Christmas these days, and some stay open year-round. I can tell you that the weather for golf is still pretty dicey in late March/early April, as my crew got snowed out one late March weekend a few years ago. Spring in OC can bring a pretty broad spectrum of weather, so pack for conditions ranging from 45-and-rainy to 75-and-sunny. OC has gotten popular as a spring golfing destination with the addition of some quality courses in recent years, so book your weekend early. High season for golfers is during the shoulder seasons of mid-April through late-May, and then Labor Day through late October, with many courses charging premium rates (up to 40-55% higher) during those times. Bob G. recommends delaying your traditional spring golf buddy trip until after June 1, when the greens fees drop drastically and local courses stay surprisingly uncrowded (from mid-morning on) through much of the summer season, although your savings on greens fees may be somewhat offset by higher room rates.
Local golf tour companies like OC Golf Groups (www.ocgolfgroups.com), Ocean City Golf Getaway (www.oceancitygolf.com), and Pam's Golf (www.pamsgolfoc.com), although you may want to book through Pam just 'cause she's kinda hot.
Getting There: OC/Salisbury does have a small airport, but OCMD is more of a regional driving destination. It's less than 3 hours from Baltimore, DC, Wilmington DE, and Philly, and is a popular spot with Pittsburghers despite being 6 hours away (it's the easiest beach to get to from the hills of western PA without passing through Philly). From points north, take I-95 S to Dover DE to pick up Route 1 S all the way down to OC, with the options of peeling off onto Rt. 13, or Rt. 113, depending on which end of OC you're heading for. From points west and south, take Rt. 50 over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge then straight into OC (avoiding summer Saturday arrivals or departures if at all possible). The eastern shore of Maryland is Purdue chicken country, so grab a pine tree air freshener to prepare yourself for the associated aromas if you'll be driving in on Route 50.
Orientation and Where To Crash: OCMD sits on a spit of sand about 3-6 blocks wide with one main drag (Coastal Highway) 160 stoplight-laden blocks long before it suddenly becomes Fenwick Island, DE at the state line. It's separated from the mainland by the Assawoman Bay (I can't make this stuff up), thus limiting access to the mainland courses.
West Ocean City is a developing stretch along Rt. 50 on the mainland, just over the bridge from OC. Berlin, MD is the next town out Rt. 50 to the west. A quaint Eastern shore town specializing in antique shops, Berlin was used as the backdrop and filming location for the Julia Roberts/Richard Gere film Runaway Bride. West OC and Berlin host most of the area courses. Bethany Beach and Rehobeth Beach DE lie just to the north of Fenwick. Salisbury, MD is the closest sizeable city, and home to local beach bum college Salisbury University.
So think strategy with your lodging choice. Staying at, say, 120th Street in Ocean City, can mean a 30+ minute drive to all your tee times in West Ocean City/Berlin. For easy access to area courses, stay below 10th or within a few blocks of the 62nd Street Rt. 90 bridge. Golf weekend hotels with good value packages include Comfort Inn and HoJo's on the boards (www.ocmdhotels.com), or the Holiday Inn at 17th street has a great Atruim Bar for indoor shoulder season partying with no transportation hassles. OC's Best Value is the Francis Scott Key Motel (Rt 50, West OC, www.fskmotel.com), and it's also convenient to most of the area golf courses. Clean but spartan rooms, a great indoor pool area for the kids (complete with water slides and fake palm trees), an outdoor pool and pirate ship water area, a surprisingly nice restaurant, and during spring golf season you may as well join the foursome next door who's partying 'til 1 AM. The caveat for staying at the Francis Scott Key is the drive back over the bridge if you plan on partying at the beach will require a designated driver. OCMD is a classic beach motel kinda town (www.ocmotels.com), save for the recent condo tower explosion; I grew up staying at the vintage Beachmark (73rd & Coastal Hwy, www.beachmarkmotel.com). Seacrets die-hards stay next door at the Seacrets Hotel, or book a decent value room at the nearby Princess Bayside (49th & Coastal Hwy), but watch the variable hot water temps and ask for a room away from the lounge.
If you're bringing the brood along, crash at the centrally-located beachfront Castle In The Sand Motel (37th & Coastal Hwy, www.castleinthesand.com) with various room configurations suitable for families, daily camp-like activities for the kids, a great pool, WiFi, and their own beach bar for Mom and Dad after the kids go to bed (oh come on, why do you think they make baby monitors).
Upscale lodging in OCMD is limited, so try The Edge for an edgy, pricey couples getaway, the Princess Royale (94th & Coastal Hwy) with a huge indoor pool atrium, or the Hilton right on the beach. Or, the recent OC condo boom could make a cheap fringe-season rate for a nice beachfront unit with a kitchen worth the extra drive to get to your tee times (www.ocvacations.com). Those with more money than time may want to splurge on the on-course golf apartment at Rum Pointe Golf Links in West Ocean City, which sleeps two foursomes, with walk-out access to the course and discounted greens fees at three nearby upscale sister courses.
Tip: Speed traps and DUIs are huge revenue generators for OCMD, so I would stay within 5 mph of the speed limit at all times, and use designated drivers, cabs, or hop an OC Transit bus up Coastal Highway ($2 ride all day, runs every 5-7 minutes 24 hours during summer) if you've had a few. Cops are EVERYWHERE down here, even during the off-season.
Tunes: 93.5 The Beach might be the best modern rock station I've ever heard (definitely a hard edge), or for more of a beach/reggae vibe tune to 98.1 Irie Ocean Radio, which broadcasts from Seacrets.
And oh yeah… before you lay eyes on the bittersweet sign leaving OC via Route 50 that reads "Sacramento CA 3073 miles", don't forget to pick up your "I Got Crabs In Ocean City MD" t-shirt (also funnier if you read the T&L Golf review of OCMD first).
Discount coupons: http://www.vgnet.com/oc/vdc.php
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2010 Fat Guy Update: While my original long weekend itinerary above reflects 30 years of OCMD experiences with recent updates, I thought I'd give you a fresh take. After spending a full week there again this year while trying some new courses and restaurants, along with revisiting some old mainstays, I've put together a more concise little redux of OCMD on a more geographic/categorical/ranked basis:
West OC/Berlin MD- Much of the area golf is scattered around inland Route 50 across the Big Assawoman Bay from Ocean City.
1. Glen Riddle GC, Man O' War Course- An authentic links for the most part, with great random fairway cambers and bunkers, huge elephant graveyard green complexes with curvy collection areas, borderline great conditioning, and it's a bear when the bay breezes are up. Laid out on the former Riddle horse farm where Seabisquit and Man O' War were trained. A relative good value for the greens fees.
Best Bar Nearby: The on-site bar at the Ruth's Chris Steakhouse is housed under the angle roof lines of the former horse stable barn, and two of the stall doors remain in tact as decor. Order the Lemon Merange martini.
Where To Grub Nearby: If you're liquid, it's hard to pass up a meal at Ruth's Chris. Order the ribeye sandwich for lunch, or the filet for dinner. For better value grub, hit Whisker's Pub (www.whiskerspub.com) for the Crabby Burger.
2. Rum Pointe GL- A very good upscale bayside links featuring plenty of water, cart bridges, bay winds, and a few holes tucked back in the woods.
3. Glen Riddle GC, War Admiral Course- Man O' War's sister course opened as a private member's-only club, but has opened to limited public play during the economic downturn. The Jim Furyk consult layout is less linksy, more wooded, and tougher that Man O' War, from what I've heard.
4. Eagle's Landing GC- Easily the best value in OCMD. Target marshland golf.
5. Ocean City G&YC, Newport Bay Course- A good first-round course with a few parkland holes before it winds out to the bayside. Fun carries over water, marsh, and sand require ballsy shots. Play the 18th from the Black tees to see if you can carry 240 over the bay to an angled fairway in bay winds.
Best Bar Nearby: Dr.Unk's (9636 Stephen Decautur Hwy aka Rt. 611, West Ocean City, www.drunksoc.com). Don't let the name fool you, this isn't some redneck local's joint. A classy darkwood little bar close to Eagle's Landing, Rum Pointe, and OC Golf Club, with a good set-up for catching the game, but there's a bonus: They open at 6AM for a good pre-round breakfast with killer Bloodys. If you're rushing to the first tee but still need a quick bite, hit the Fractured Prune (www.fracturedprune.com) next door for OC's best fresh donuts.
Where To Grub Nearby: Hooper's Crab House (Rt. 50, West Ocean City, www.hooperscrabhouse.com). Come for the waterfront dock bar Sneaky Pete's, and stay for the $26 all-you-can-eat Maryland hardshell blue crabs.
Sneaky Pete's
Or hit Smoker's Pit BBQ shack (Rt. 611, West Ocean City) for award-winning smoked meats.
6. Deer Run GC- A fun, good value short track with tough green complexes and a Harbourtowne-like bulkhead par-3 over water, but the 3 finishing holes are weak.
7. The Beach Club- This former 36-hole facility is a prime example of what's happening to the golf industry since the golf boom peaked in the '90's and then the recent recession. Before the housing bubble had burst, they closed the newer Outer course, a fun Brian Ault design that combined wetlands, woodlands, and links elements and made you think a shot or two ahead, with the hopes of wrapping an upscale housing development around the older, more classic (read: boring), and vaguely Floridian Inner course. Then the real estate bubble popped, the housing development was scrapped, and the better 18 holes on-site now sit neglected and grown over. It's a crime to see. In addition, they've let some of the maintenance go on the remaining 18 holes with the economic downturn, including some burned out rough, fairways and tees overrun with crab grass, and letting some of the bunkers grow in with grass. By summer 2010 it was starting to look alot like a club on the brink of bankruptcy, although it's not a bad throw-in warm-up round if you're playing the 3-fer deal with Lighthouse and Man O' War.
8. The Bay Club, East & West Courses- Admittedly I only played here once and it was over 10 years ago, but the conditions on both courses were terrible, the routings were ho-hum, and the staff was rude.
Where To Stay: If most of your tee times are in West Ocean City/Berlin, stay below 33rd Street for easier access to the mainland courses.
Family Value/Closest: Francis Scott Key Motel (Rt. 50, West Ocean City, www.fskmotel.com) is a good value for basic accomodations. It's also a good spot if you have the family along, as they feature an indoor pool, Pirate Ship Sprayground, hot tubs for sore golf muscles, and a surprisingly good on-site restaurant. Or try the nearby Comfort Inn Suites (www.comfortinnsuitesoceancity.com) with it's own mini-waterpark. In Ocean City proper, try Castle In The Sand (37th & Coastal Hwy, www.castleinthesand.com). Sure, it's a little bit of an extra drive to the West OC courses, but it's also midway to the Bishopville/Ocean Pines tracks. Plus, out your backdoor is the only pool left in OC with a diving board, and right out your front door is one of the best beach bars, Coconuts. And the it's only hotel on the strand with waitress service (booze allowed) on the beach. The rooms are pretty dated but clean, and they come with kitchenettes and a seperate living room with a foldout couch for the kids.
Good Golf Package Hotels: Quality Inn, Howard Johnson's, or Comfort Inn are all located on the Boardwalk below 15th Street and all offer golf packages.
Mid-Century Throwback Motels: A drive up North Baltimore Avenue between 21st and 33rd Streets is like a time warp back to 1958. Check out the old school neon and classic wrapped-around-the-pool architecture of the Eden Rock (www.ocedenrocmotel.com), Empress (www.empressmotel.com), Ocean Mecca (www.oceanmeccamotel.com), Flamingo (www.flamingo-ocmd.com), Thunderbird (www.purnellproperties.com/thunderbird) motels, or the divey pool bar at the Ocean Voyager (www.oceanvoyagermotel.com).
Party Hotels: Tidelands Carribean Motel (www.tidelandscarribean.com) has golf packages, plus the Blue Fin Pool Bar & Grill on-site with a hottie staff. Plim Plaza (www.ocmdhotels.com/plimplaza) also has a nice pool bar.
Bishopville/Ocean Pines- Three of the better area courses are located just off inland Route 90 across the Little Assawoman Bay from the 62nd Street bridge in Ocean City.
1. The Links @ Lighthouse Sound-
This uber-upscale bayside links is ranked #79 on Golf Magazine's Top 100 You Can Play, with sweeping bayside views, waterfront breezes, outstanding conditions, and it's chock full of great risk/reward cape holes. But as you'd expect, it's pretty pricey and not a great value.
2. River Run GC- This Gary Player design is a hodgepodge of parkland, woodlands, and wetlands with plenty of chocolate drop mounding, with a good on-site restaurant.
3. Ocean Pines G&CC- This former private club has opened to the public after the economic downturn. A classic layout by Robert Trent Jones Sr. is cut out of the surrounding maritime pine forest and housing community.
Best Bar Nearby: The on-site grill room at Lighthouse Sound is hard to beat for bayfront views, whether you played there or elsewhere. Order a drink called the Back Nine, which is their politically-correct name for a slightly jazzed-up John Daly. For a great beach bar, head back to Ocean City proper for the best Carribean style beach bar on the East Coast at Seacrets (48th St & the Bay, www.seacrets.com), with acres of sand floors under a canopy of palm trees, buried boats for bars, order a drink to your inner tube while floating on the bay, and there's an indoor night club. Order a Pain In De Ass, a frozen combination of a Rum Runner and Pina Colada. Break from the beach theme at Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille (66th & Coastal Hwy, www.galaxy66barandgrille.com) for eclectic modern decor, OCMD's most creative menu, great cheesesteaks, an outstanding cocktail selection, and a sexy rooftop bar.
Where To Grub Nearby: My playing partners at Lighthouse highly recommended nearby Grove Market Restaurant & Smokehouse (12402 St. Martin's Neck Rd, 1/2 mile to the right out of the parking lot, 410-352-5055).
Grove Market Restaurant & Smokehouse
The road shack exterior of this local's secret gives no hint of the eclectic gourmet cuisine and charming interior awaiting inside, even if you are sitting on plastic resin chairs. No menu, just what the chef prepared from the catch of the day, freshest local meats, and the organic vegtables grown on-site. The toughest part is scoring a reservation. With a limited number of tables and high demand, it's not uncommon for the Grove Market staff to never return messages left for reservations by non-regulars. Snagging one is a real score, so my playing partners suggest the following strategy: Stop there for a beer or three at the bar, shoot the breeze with the barkeep, joke with the hostess a little, and make sure everyone you meet remembers your name. You may even have to pull this act a couple times to make sure it takes. From there, inquire about a reservation while there, and you may still have to call, leave a message, and hope they remember you. For less hassle and a smaller check, head back into Ocean City to Dead Freddie's (64th & Coastal Hwy, www.deadfreddiesoceancity.com) for a great deck bar and good food.
Where To Stay: If most of your tee times are in the Bishopville/Ocean Pines area, stick to digs within about 10 blocks of the 62nd Street Route 90 bridge.
Holiday Inn (71st & Coastal Hwy) has OCMD's only swim-up pool bar in a good value, party atmosphere.
Fenwick/Long Neck DE- These 3 newer tracks are all about 45 minutes to an hour north of OCMD (depending on where you're staying), but at least 2 of the 3 are worth the drive.
1. Bayside GC- Jack Nicklaus, atypical beach golf with minimal fairway bunkering and small greens, and a fave of a well-travelled golf acquaintance.
2. Baywood Greens- Great conditions, geometric design touches, tough holes, and floral flourishes galore, plus a nice daily fee two-tiered pool for your golf widow/family, but it's pricey and the furthest area course from Ocean City proper.
3. Bear Trap Dunes GL- A solid windy faux-links partially routed around a housing development.
Where To Booze & Grub Nearby: Both Bayside and Bear Trap have nice little grill rooms on-site, or head for Harpoon Hannah's (Fewick Island DE aka North OC, www.harpoonhannahsrestaurant.com) for their deck tiki bar and good seafood. If you're headed back to Ocean City proper, my Lighthouse playing partners and my buddy Bob recommend Liquid Assets (94th & Coastal Hwy, www.ocliquidassets.com). Part liquor store and part bistro with couches littered throughout, this is the kind of place you'd expect Guy Fieri to feature on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Outstanding, creative food, and you have access to the full wine, beer, and booze selection of the liquor store, which will still save you some dough despite the $10 uncorking fee.
Where To Stay: Partiers playing the DE triumvirate should stay in Dewey Beach and party at the Starboard and Rusty Rudder. In North OCMD, stay beachside at the Carousel Hotel.
Ocean City Proper: Bars, Restaurants, and Motels
Beach Bars: An important distinction here... Don't call it a beach bar if it ain't got sand leading into a natural body of water.
1. Seacrets- The coolest true beach bar on the Northeastern seaboard. Acres of sand floors under a canopy of palm trees, and walk from the buried boat bars out into the bay where you can order a drink while floating on your inner tube. Decent food and a hoppin' indoor nightclub too. Order a Pain In De Ass, a colorful swirl of frozen Rum Rummer and Pina Colada. Bring your ID and a Boomer-Parrotheads-meet-the-post-college-crowd mentality.
2. Coconuts @ Castle In The Sand- The only place in OCMD with booze and waitress service allowed on the beach. Live music 2-6 daily and a 53-year-old bar. I preferred a rum drink called a Tiki Torch over their house specialty Tipsy Turtle, and definitely order the deep fried mac-&-cheese wedges. Trust me on this one.
3. Macky's- A lively open-air porch bar hangs off the back of the restaurant, with tables littered all over the sand out back until you walk into the bay. Fun happy hour skits and antics, but don't plan for a meal here... the food is mediocre at best, and the quesadillas gave my wife the trots.
Deck/Dock Bars: If you walk on boards over or near the water, it's a deck bar.
1. Fager's Island- Recent buzz I heard said Fager's had surpassed Seacrets as THE nightspot in OCMD, but I suspect that's more for the over-30 crowd.
2. Sneaky Pete's- A great divey dock bar on planks over the bay hanging off the back of a good crab house (Hooper's).
3. De Lazy Lizard's- I've read good reviews, but never been there.
4. Sunset Grille- Looks like a great upscale bayside dock bar with nice floral flourishes, but I've never been there either.
Pool Bars: If there's a pool within the same fenceline, it's a pool bar.
Party Block Pool Bar- South-Beach-style pool bar features cabanas, pool bar, and beautiful people.
Holiday Inn- One of only a couple OCMD swim-up bars. The barkeep keeps a clothes line handy for drying off cash.
Blue Fin Pool Bar & Grill @ Tidelands Carribean Hotel- Opens for breakfast and Bloodys at 8 AM.
Carribean Pool Bar @ Plim Plaza Hotel
Lenny's Beach Bar & Grill @ Fountainbleau Hotel
The Manana Mode Pool Bar & Grill @ Hilton Suites Oceanfront- Another swim-up bar, guests only.
Rio Grande Tiki Bar @ Econo Lodge Oceanblock- The local's hangout.
Rum Runners @ Commander Hotel
The Pool Bar @ Francis Scott Key Motel- In West OC.
Dives/Taverns:
Davey Jones Locker Room- On the Boardwalk at the Inlet, a classic second story sports bar dive with sweeping views of the beach, ocean, boardwalk, and pier rides.
Coins- OCMD's best happy hour, good crabcakes, and the best Reuben in town.
Sports Bars:
Pickle's Pub- A good sports bar and multiple pool tables.
Buxy's Salty Dog Saloon- A good Pittsburgh Steelers bar with good pub food.
Johnny's Pizza Pub- A new modern pizza pub/sports bar with plenty of plasmas. Order the crab pizza.
Green Turtle (West & Original locations)- Famous for, well... their t-shirts, the original has been here forever. The West OC location has decent wings and a couple pool tables, but the rest of the menu is kinda shaky.
Irish Pubs:
Shennanigan's- A good family-style Irish pub on the boards.
Duffy's- A classic Irish pub.
Clubs: Ocean City is more of a dock/beach bar kinda town, so there's really only 3 or so clubs in town worth mentioning.
Party Block / Big Kahuna / Rush
Seacrets
The Ocean Club- Top-floor high-rise ocean views and a dance floor for the over-30 set.
H2O- If you're the unlucky recipient of a teenager's boredom wrath for dragging them along on a totally lame family vacation when they'd much rather be home chillin' with their peeps/boyfriend/ girlfriend, ease that angry boredom for a night or two by dropping them off at this hoppin' Under 21 dance club just off the Boardwalk down near the Inlet.
Seafood:
Phillip's Seafood- The OCMD institution for crab and seafood with 3 locations.
Higgin's
Mug & Mallet
Tip: Ocean City is not known for it's non-seafood cuisine, so stick to these local institutions when venturing off the crab track:
Steak:
Ruth's Chris- A great room in the former horse stable barn at Glen Riddle GC, great steaks, but only if you're liquid.
Chophouse @ Ember's- A decent "upscale" steakhouse.
Nick's Ribs & Steak- Good midscale ribs & steak.
BBQ: Five years ago there were 2 legit BBQ joints in all of greater OCMD. But the Food Network has popularized BBQ as the new American food group, and now the place is lousy with them. To my dismay, I haven't personally sampled a single one, so here they are in alphabetical order.
Boog's- A good location right on Route 50 in West OC, but no idea how the BBQ is. I don't think it's associated with Boog Powell's, but I'm not sure.
Boog Powell's- The famed BBQ from Baltimore's Camden Yards has a location on the boards at the Inlet.
Grove Park Smokehouse- I hear this joint is so good, the locals try to keep it a secret from the tourists.
Open Pit- I haven't even read anything about this place, good or bad, just saw it on Coastal Highway.
Smoker's Pit BBQ- A great location near some of the West OC courses, and award-winning BBQ.
Italian:
Antipasti- Named as one of the Top 5 Italian restaurants in the country, but pricey.
Adolfo's- Recommended by a fellow Pittsburgher I met in the pool.
Pizza: The one thing OCMD still lacks is a truly great boardwalk pizza joint.
Lombardi's- The best pizza I've found in town.
Pino's- Rated as OCMD's best by the Baltimore Sun.
Wings: Believe it or not, I've never had wings in OCMD.
Smitty McGee's- Consistently mentioned as OCMD's best in foodie blogs I've read.
Kirby's
Big Pecker's
Island Cafe
Tunes:
93.5 The Beach- Great modern rock
98.1 Irie Ocean Radio- Beach/Reggae
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