Fat Guy's East Coast Beach Bar Golf Trail
Beach towns from Massachusets to Alabama and beyond
Seacrets, Ocean City MD
I remember reading an article once where Conde Nast Traveler paid Ben Affleck to drive up the Southeastern coast in a Ferrari and write about his favorite stops along the way (obviously this was post-Good Will Hunting and pre-Gigli).
Like you, I thought, 'Nice work if you can get it.' Since nobody's paying me to write this, plus I have a real job and kids and drive a Dodge, you'll have to settle for 20 years of beach bar and golf travel experience, plus some research from my usual golf mag and online resources.
Naturally, good beach bars in good beach towns usually mean good beach/links golf too.
When To Go: Memorial Day to Labor Day, for tolerable Atlantic Ocean water temps.
East Coast
Cape Cod, MA:
The Course: Ocean Edge GC (www.oceanedge.com, Brewster MA). Recently torn down and rebuilt by Nicklaus Design, the golf course at Ocean Edge is now brawnier to look at and better defined in its shotmaking demands. The front side still doesn’t have much topographic pop compared to the more dramatic back nine, but its new routing makes good use of the cross-Cape winds, tacking and turning in relation to the line of play. Ocean Edge has large greens, but they don’t play that way, thanks to shaping that divides them into sectors. The par-three third, with its long diagonal green, is a good example, as is the one-shot eighth, which plays downhill over Blueberry Pond and features a putting surface bisected into raised and sunken tiers. [T&L Golf '08]
The Bar: The Beachcomber (www.thebeachcomber.com, Wellfleet MA) was the #1 rated bar in America by Esquire, and it doesn't hurt that it sits between two massive dune hills right on the sand.
"We were lost on Route 6, and a lady told us to go back, take a left, and follow the road to the water. This was out toward the tip of Cape Cod, Atlantic side. At the end of the road, we found a clapboard barn sitting halfway down a sand dune. No, a sand mountain. So much sand above and below us it didn’t even feel like America. Inside, the fried oysters were briny and crunchy. The bottles of Sam Adams were so cold you had to keep switching hands. A band played loud enough to be heard outside, and a baseball game was on the TV. After midnight, we all ran up one of the dunes, no man or woman wearing much more than underwear. From up top, the Beachcomber glowed below. Way down on the beach, people were starting a bonfire. We lunged toward it all at once, falling more than running, a tangle of limbs hurtling through the deep, cold sand."
Rhode Island:
The Course: Fat Guy digs Weekapaug GC. Despite the fact that it's only 9 holes, you'd be hard pressed to find more quaint ocean/bay views anywhere. Hard by the bay, Driver/Wedge from the ocean, and normally windy, this track is flat with some challenging bunkering around the greens. The bay comes into play on a few holes. Geese were an issue if memory serves.
The Bars: Esquire drinks at Ocean Mist in Matunuck (www.oceanmist.net). "Ocean Mist is a beach joint. No oyster bar, no lobster pound, no T-shirts that will spark conversation on the other side of the world. The outdoor deck is so close to the sea that an offshore breeze can knock the head off your beer and send it swirling into the Atlantic. They do business all year round, but you want to go in the summer, sometime before Bill Belichick murmurs his first regular-season press conference. Claim some real estate on the deck and look for Block Island or watch surfers line up on the point break a few clicks to the southeast. Order a Bloody Mary and some stuffies."
Ocean Mist
Closer to the course, Fat Guy downed a few at the Andrea Hotel (89 Atlantic Ave). Right on the beach, great views, New England nautical decor, good drinks, decent food, with easy access for a stroll on the sand.
NYC:
The Course: Take a walk back in time to golf's Golden Age of Design with a 1929 John Van Kleek routing at NYC muni Silver Lake GC in Brooklyn. It's a New York muni, so don't expect great conditions or a quick round, but tee off in that mindset, and you'll have fun.
The Bars: NYC might be among the last places you'd think you could find a decent beach bar, but it just goes to show that you can find anything in New York. Hit Harry's at Water Taxi Beach (2-03 Borden Ave., at 2nd St., Long Island City; 212-742-1969). "If you thought Long Island City was the antithesis of the Hamptons, the folks behind Schnack and New York Water Taxi would like you to reconsider. They’ve trucked in Jersey sand and two dozen picnic tables to create a man-made beach, complete with a tiki hut, $2 Schaefers during happy hour, and a grill serving elk burgers, occasionally fish tacos, and Black Angus hot dogs. Until October 10, you'll find extended families and P.S. 1 defectors playing volleyball to a thumping sound system or simply taking in the best view of midtown Manhattan this side of the Donald's chopper. Getting There: The easiest way is by water taxi (schedule permitting), but if you're coming from the Jackson/Vernon Ave. 7 stop, walk along Jackson Avenue to Borden Avenue, turn right, and then enter the beach driveway.
Travel Channel's Sexiest Beach Bars takes us to a different kind of island. Ruby's Old Tyme Bar and Grill is located on New York's historic Coney Island. It's said that the bar housed an under-the-boardwalk cabaret before it became the Hebrew National Deli in 1934. Rubin Jacobs purchased the space in 1975, and it's been serving beer in plastic cups ever since. The history of Coney Island can be seen in photographs behind the bar, but grab a beer and hit the boards to experience this New York landmark firsthand.
The Hamptons:
The Course: Montauk Downs State Park MGC, Montauk, on the eastern tip of Long Island, NY (3 hours from NYC). Golf Digest says, "Montauk Downs charges $46 for New York residents, and $92 for out-of-staters. Rees Jones polished another New York State Parks course, Bethpage Black, before the 2002 and 2009 U.S. Opens, and in 2003 he put together a reconditioning plan for The Downs. The result is a 6,976-yard test of local knowledge and patience. Sitting on high ground pinched on four sides by lakes, the Long Island Sound and the Atlantic, The Downs is about handling prevailing wind."
The Bars: Travel Channel named Montauk's The Surf Lodge as one of the 25 Sexiest Beach Bars on the planet.
"Montauk considers itself the 'un-Hampton,' a sleepy fishing village with miles of beautiful coastline. The Surf Lodge on Fort Pond in Montauk is nestled on the pond's coast, only half a mile from the beach. Don't feel like changing after riding the perfect fat wave? No worries. The Surf Lodge welcomes flip-flops and board shorts as much as a laid-back attitude. Chill out with a cold one while listening to Bob Marley and The Rolling Stones in front of a lakeside bonfire."
If your golf widow would like a taste of the uppity side of the Hamptons, Travel Channel also named Sunset Beach on Shelter Island as another one of their Sexiest Beach Bars. New York City refugees, Hamptons residents and yachters know there's no better beach locale than Sunset Beach. The signature cocktail is the Sunset Beach Rosé, a light fragrant rosé produced by Andre Balazs that patrons have been sipping since 1997.
Jersey Shore:
The Course: Tradition abounds at Brigantine GL (Brigantine, www.brigantinegolf.com), a 1920's-vintage VanKleek & Stiles Scottish-style seaside links on a small barrier island. Back in the day, this windswept layout was used by greats like Walter Hagen as a warm-up course for the British Open before the long boat ride out of New York City across the pond. After numerous owners and varying states of neglect over the years, Brigantine received a $2.5 million restoration back in 1989 to return to its original glory. A great value, but there is one caveat: the sand flies can be an issue here when there's a land breeze, so bring the heavy duty bug spray and a pair of wind pants, just in case.
The Bar: Atlantic City is alot of things... the rejuvinated gritty gambling capital of the East Coast (with some great recent upgrades like The Borgata), arguably the boardwalk capital of the world, inspiration for the Monopoly board game, a surprising little golf mecca, and still a ghetto (once you get a couple blocks off the boards)... but a palm-laden Caribbean-vibe beach it's not. Atlantic City beach bars have to do three things: get permitted by city council, accomodate the mobs of Philadelphians and New Yorkers that flock here on summer weekends, and make a boat load of money for the casino to which they're connected. As a result, A.C.'s "beach bars" end up looking more like wood-plank decks on the sand with a vibe closer to a pool-club-snack-bar-with-a-beach-view than any kind of sand-between-your-toes-and-hammocks-hanging-between-two-palms feel. Even so, veteran rock star Sammy Hagar makes everything cooler (except maybe Van Halen), so when he lends his Mexican-beach-themed brand to Bally's glorified deck bar, you know it's worth a visit. Head for Sammy Hagar's Beach Bar at Bally's (www.ballysac.com). Think Mas Tequila.
The Course: Sand Barrens GC (Swainton, NJ, just south of Atlantic City, www.sandbarrensgolf.com). Hurzdan & Fry had originally designed a parkland course for the site at Sand Barrens before they discovered the layer of sand just beneath the soil. Soon bulldozers were half-improvising a pine-lined target links of free-form bunkers, lengthy waste areas with wild grasses, and massive, four-puttable greens. Fry, the aesthetician of the design team, thinks about such things as how shadows will define the bunkers; play late in the day to fully appreciate his art. Avoid the first few tee times of the morning; the last time I tried to go off early here during summer, the staff showed up collectively late, hungover, and surly (granted, I was also hungover and surly, but at least I was on time).
The Bars: For some reason there are only a precious couple of true outdoor beach bars on the Jersey shore outside of A.C., so we'll head for one of the best old school cinder block bunker bars, and it's only a half-a-block from the ocean. #1 Tavern (1st & Atlantic Avenues, North Wildwood, NJ 609-522-1775, www.supertullynut.com, open May 1-Sept 31) is Wildwood's best party beach bar.
Back in 1969, owner Mark Tully spent the summer playing around with mixing different cocktails, and came up with fruity 5-liquor drink he dubbed the "Tully Nut" ($7). Patrons have been flocking to the joint for the drink ever since, and the place is usually busy-to-packed with a young party crowd. The owner has since semi-retired and left the bar to his sons to run, but the drink's recipe is so secret, he won't even tell his kids! He still comes in to mix up huge batches of the stuff himself, which are then kept chilled in those glass recirculating lemonade machines you see on stands at the boardwalk. Only Tully's lawyer has access to the recipe, which is locked up in a safe deposit box in case of his untimely demise.
For a great college-style party, head for Sea Isle, and booze it up at La Costa Lounge (JFK Blvd) or the Ocean Drive (Landis Ave), both a block off the beach. My 20-something buddy Matt, a Jersey shore novice originally from the Midwest, recently spent a weekend in Sea Isle, got sucked into the Ocean Drive for an afternoon session, and emerged having lost his driver's license and credit card, with a vague impression he had a great time. In Avalon, the college crowd and divorcee's alike head for the landmark hotel and beachfront lounge at The Windrift (80th & the beach, www.windrifthotel.com).
The Course: Cape May National (Erma, www.cmngc.com) is a decent value, particularly for an upscale beach enclave. A nice little marshland track with unique charms and character, featuring plenty of water carries and fast greens. A fun routing and worth a round, but with a few of caveats: Pace of play can be a serious issue during high traffic vacation weekends (i.e. 4th of July) due to the proximity to area beaches. With all the marshland the mosquitos can get bad, so avoid twilight rounds and bring the bug spray. And, while it was built with utmost respect to nature and laid out to allow room for a bird sanctuary and wildflower preserve, the natural maintanance techniques can allow it to burn out in late summer.
The Bar: Travel & Leisure digs The Rusty Nail in Cape May, naming it one of the Best Beach Bars in America. "This iconic surfer bar on the grounds of the Beach Shack was first hot in the ’70s, when lifeguards from the nearby station came nightly for an ice-cold beer in a frozen mug. When a road separated it from the beach, the owner dumped 10,000 pounds of sand next to an outside breakfast nook and turned it into a tiki bar with its own beach of sorts. Happy-hour crowds spill outside for the sunset, fire pit, live music, and the coldest beer in Cape May. Order the house drink, The Hammer, made with coconut and spiced rums, passion fruit, fresh-squeezed lemons, limes, and oranges, and served in a hollow coconut."
Delaware Beaches:
The Course: Bayside GC, Fenwick DE (www.golfbayside.com). T&L Golf says: "Jack Nicklaus departs from typical beach golf at Bayside; rather than showcasing the sand with flashed-up bunkering, The Golden Bear tucked it away in small strategic spots, and used tiny elevated greens as another atypical beach course defense." A golfing acquaintance with alot of travel experience recently ranked Bayside among his favorite courses anywhere.
The Bar: The Starboard, Dewey Beach, DE. It's a block off the beach, but you'd be hard pressed to find a better party than the one going on at The Starboard on summer weekends.
It's a low-ceilinged wall-to-wall boozefest with DJ's spinning summer & party staples. DelawareOnline says, "Starboard's beer-soaked outdoor deck is brimming with partyers singing along to 'Cotton Eye Joe' with drinks raised in the air. Body shots get taken to unthought-of levels here. Even middle-aged locals say, 'We become one with the bar. It's like an extension of college. We jump right in, and it's like a mosh pit every night.' Bartender jobs get posted only when a returning vet dies, so they know patrons from one season to the next. Inside, two big rooms will be packed with folks dancing to DJ John Hardy's music. Every weekend about 50 patrons forget a credit card at the bar." Now that's a bar.
Ocean City, MD:
The Courses: OCMD is an old stompin' grounds of mine. If you're hell-bent on the beach golf theme and liquid, then buck up for the highly-rated but pricey bayside holes on Arthur Hills' Links at Lighthouse Sound or P.B. Dye's Rum Pointe. Great designs, waterfront greens, outstanding conditions, and bay views from an upscale 19th hole in the cedar-shingled clubhouse. Or, go for the still-upscale-but-better-value Glen Riddle GC's Man O' War Course in nearby Berlin. Built on the former horse farm where Seabiscuit and Man O' War were trained, this surprisingly legit near-links features authentic Scottish touches like rolling fairway cambers, sandy soil, random fairway bunkers, blind shots, sea breezes, scraggly mounds, and fields of fescue waving in the wind. The horse racing theme runs from the former practice track and rusted starting gate still in place as hazards, to a tony bar set amongst the angled roof lines of the Ruth's Chris Steakhouse housed in the former stable barn.
The Bars: Seacrets, Ocean City, MD. Jamaica meets the Big Assawoman Bay at the coolest outdoor/indoor island-style bar on the Northeastern seaboard, with acres of sand under a canopy of palm trees, and half-buried boats for bars. Order a frozen drink called a Pain In De Ass while floating on an inner tube in the bay. OK, so it's touristy, but this is what you think of when you think "beach bar".
Family guys will want to crash with the brood at Castle In The Sand (37th & Coastal Hwy, www.castleinthesand.com). Grab a room on the first floor of their Castle South building for the perfect family vacation set-up: Ten steps out your backdoor is the only hotel pool in OCMD that still has a diving board, ten steps out your front door is Coconuts Beach Bar & Grille (complete with a beach volleyball court), and ten steps off of your bar stool at Coconuts are the beach dunes. Plus, Coconuts is the only bar in OCMD allowed to serve alcohol to their guests on the beach. My wife and I would put the kids to bed every night, turn on the baby monitor, and hang guilt-free at the nearby tiki bar until the Mai Tais caught up to us, which is when the separate bedroom came in handy. OK, so the walls are paper thin and the rooms are pretty dated, but the convenience outweighs the occasional loud teens cruising the halls late night and the two toddlers-on-crack stomping on your ceiling. Daytime brings camp-like kids' activities, and once a week they show a Pixar movie on a projection screen against the wall of the hotel after dark. Summer room rates run around $1,600 a week.
If you're just looking for a beachy family spot for some good food and blender drinks, head for the kid-friendly bayside dining in the sand at Fish Tales (21st & bayside, www.ocfishtales.com). Technically it's more of a dock bar where they trucked in a small beach and put up some palm trees, but the overall vibe works, and the pirate ship playset in the sand is perfect for keeping the kids from climbing your leg so you can enjoy an umbrella drink while you wait for a table. Order the fish tacos, lobster mac & cheese, and sweet potato fries. Tip: Fish Tales is stupid popular with the family crowd, especially for dinner. Go early, late, or an hour-plus before the kids are going to be hungry. 
There are also some good OCMD boardwalk and dock bars worth a mention. On the boards, hit The Purple Moose, Brass Balls Saloon.or catch a game among the divey second-floor boardwalk/beach/ocean views from Davey Jones Locker Room at the Inlet. Good dock bars on the bay include Fager's Island, BJ's On The Waterfront, Dead Freddie's Island Grill (a slightly more upscale dockside version of Fish Tales), De Lazy Lizard's, or the upscale Sunset Grille. In West Ocean City, head for Hooper's Crab House. Come for their waterfront dock bar Sneaky Pete's, and stay for the $26 all-you-can-eat Maryland hardshell blue crabs.
Virginia Beach, VA:
The Course: Hell's Point, Virginia Beach. An early Rees Jones layout cut out of the Virginia pines, but still close enough to the ocean to smell the salt air. The course emphasizes strategy, not length. 61 sculptured bunkers and several lakes come into play, with narrow fairways and undulating greens. One of Fat Guy's Top 50 Coolest Course Names.
The Bars: Golf Magazine recommends Mahi Mah's, a lively saloon and oceanfront dining spot in the Ramada Inn On The Beach, where the raw bar is for real.
Outer Banks, NC:
The Courses: Curritick GC, Corolla NC (www.thecurrituckgolfclub.com). This course is a total lunch-eater. 15-20 mph, 1-3 club wind. Currituck sits just off the dunes of the beach and hard against the sound on the other side, so it's pretty open to the ocean winds. I'm guessing the wind was worse than normal when we played, but is usually the big factor here. Club selection is key with the wind to factor in. Why Rees Jones had to take a nasty, constant seaside wind and add hazard after hazard (including 3 consecutive holes on the front with water AND O.B. very much in play on every shot), I'll never know. I lost 2 sleeves plus. Notice I used the word "wind" 5 times in the first 5 sentences. Way underrated at a 128 slope from the Blues. You'll develop typical home owner's envy with all the palatial beach houses surrounding the course. Pace of play was pretty good. The waterside holes down along the sound were very scenic. Good conditions. The prime time rates are pricey, but it was a great value at the $52 1 PM preseason twilight we paid back in '01. Total hottie working in the pro shop, and the beer cart grrl wasn't bad either.
For course options closer to the southern end of the Outer Banks, play Nags Head GL (www.nagsheadgl.com). An East Coast version of Spanish Bay on an 80% scale, this course is routed among the same sand dunes the Wright Brothers used for their first flight. It has some gorgeous bayside holes and fun links elements, but the caveat is that it's shoe-horned into a McBeach house development.
The Bar: I'll recommend this one with a caveat of mixed third hand feeback I've heard, but it carries some weight that Travel Chanel rated the waterfront atmosphere at Fishbones Sunset Grille & Raw Bar (www.fishbonessunsetgrille.com) as the Outer Banks' best, with palm-laden outdoor dining, live entertainment, 3 tiki bars, and jet ski & boat rentals.
Some word of mouth I've heard gives consistent warnings of bad service, crowds, and mediocre food. Hit the lull between the post-lunch boozers and happy hour, and stay away from the menu.
Wilmington, NC:
A buddy of mine spent his college and drinking-age summers tending bar down here, and it sounds like a compact version of OBX, with a little more nightlife.
The Course: For you Donald Ross fans out there, you won't find a better Ross muni than Wilmington MGC. In 1989 the bunkers were restored and renovated to complete the visions Donald J. Ross began in 1926. In 2002, the course was named one of the top 10 public access golf courses in North Carolina by Golf Week Magazine.
The Bars: The Ocean Grill's tiki hut bar sits on a pier perfect for watching sunsets in Carolina Beach, and serves up a menu of colorful locally-named cocktails. At night they keep the outdoor lights low, and the sound of the crashing waves nearly drowns out the music and cacophony of boozy voices.
Or hit the Last Resort in Carolina Beach. "The smallest bar in North Carolina" is just steps from the Intercoastal Waterway.
Myrtle Beach, SC:
The Course: You can't have a beach-themed golf trail without hitting buddy trip mecca Myrtle Beach. We'll go local flavor with the Low Country feel of Caledonia Golf & Fish Club (www.fishclub.com). Designed by target genius Mike Stranz, it was built on a former rice plantation with a Magnolia Lane entrance. The routing winds through mossy oaks, and you can't beat the Low Country scenery. Golf Digest Top 10 in Myrtle, #86 GD Top 100 Publics 2007, #10 Golf World 2008 Reader's poll.
The Bars: TravelGolf.com says, "Bummz Beach Cafe (www.bummz.com) is located right at the heart of the main drag on Ocean Boulevard in Myrtle Beach and has an indoor spot that often hosts karaoke, as well as a back patio and boardwalk to the beach."
Ocean Annie's at the Sands Ocean Club Resort (9550 Shore Drive, www.oceanannies.com) is a great party bar.
A golf mecca like Myrtle deserves more than a couple nominations, so I'll give Honorable Mentions to:
A little closer to Caledonia, the waterfront bars down on Murell's Inlet don't necessarily sit on the beach, but many have sand parking lots and great Low Country views. My buddy Jed, a former Myrtle resident, digs River City Café for a peanut-shells-on-the-floor, cold-long-necks-in-the-cooler, license-plates-on-the-wall, no-pretense joint with juicy sirloin burgers.
The Course: Glen Dornoch GC, Little River SC. Admittedly I've never played Glen Dornoch, but I've consistently seen it ranked among the Myrtle Beach area's best courses. I mention it more because it's the closest good course to my favorite bar in Myrtle...
The Bar: Crab Catcher's. This is more of a dockside river bar than a true beach bar, but you can't beat it for that backwater Low Country feel. Matriculate up Route 17N to Little River, SC just shy of the NC border, and bang a right onto Route 50 aka Minneola Ave. Just a few blocks down from the hustle and bustle of 17, the road peters out by the riverside at the sand parking lots for the off-shore gambling boats that depart from here. A homey, low-ceilinged vibe, and owned by a personable family, with a great outdoor deck bar and good food.
Where To Stay: AOL Travel ranks Camelot By The Sea (www.oceanaresorts.com) as one of their Top 10 Best Budget Beach Hotels in America.
Hilton Head, SC:
The Course: Waterfront golf on Hilton Head means only one thing: Pete Dye's famed lighthouse target on the 18th at Harbourtown Golf Links Ocean Course. T&L Golf says, "Playing Harbour Town is like downing eighteen straight espressos: Each tastes equally good and yet you become ever jumpier. The agony and the ecstasy of this masterwork is that there's absolutely no letdown, not a single 'let it fly' shot. It's as exacting as a New Yorker copy editor. The par threes are justifiably renowned as one of golf's best collections, all as precise (like the 'split the oak uprights to the faux island green' seventh) as the famous waterfront seventeenth is gorgeous. It's the two- and three-shot holes, however, that are for us the heart of the course: Placement, trajectory and curvature must always be controlled for any chance of finding and holding the wee greens in regulation. One minor caveat: The conditioning on our last visit was fine, but not quite worthy of the big ticket—a longstanding issue here."
The Bar: Coco's On The Beach @ Hilton Head Resort. Play a few games of beach volleyball right off the front porch to work up a thirst, jump in the ocean to cool off, then have a few Palmetto Ales on Coco's colorful bar stools.
Or hit the Tiki Hut at the Holiday Inn Oceanfront on Coligny Circle.
Daufuskie Island, SC:
The Course: If you're more of a golf adventurer than a golf tourist, then grab your sticks after playing Harbourtown and take the one-hour ferry boat from Hilton Head over to Daufuskie Island's Nicklaus-designed Melrose Course. Sometimes the ferry doesn't run for various reasons, like the weather's bad, the captain's hungover, or general lack of interest. If not, you might be able to hire a private boat, or swing a ride out with some Fuskie locals who are on Hilton Head for a grocery and supply run.
Once you get there, you realize this is also the island that houses Haig Point, an uber-upscale private development and its namesake Rees Jones course, which makes Golf Digest's America's Greatest 100 Courses lists. A poster child for the real estate excesses of the late '80's & '90's, the upscale Dafuskie Island Resort that the Melrose course was built for went bankrupt after the economic downturn. Sadly, the island quickly took back Daufuskie's sister Bloody Point course, already so overgrown that parts of it look like Jurassic Park. A bunkruptcy judge kept a few guys on the grounds crew at Melrose in hopes of keeping the resort sellable, and they've been keeping the thing in remarkable shape on less than a shoe string. There are no amenities or facilities, but there are gorgeous swales, oceanside holes, and all the oaks dripping Spanish moss you can stand on a one-time Golf Digest 4-1/2 star course. Greens fees are $75 and the ferry ride is $42.
As for the locals... well let's just say this place is a tenous John-Berendt-esque mix of transplanted Blue Blood retirees and Cajun country's sinister voodoo cousins. Top it off with one of Travel & Leisure's top rated beach bars and some good island lodging, and this is the kind of iddylic hidden gem of a spot that you envision heading for when you have those insomnia-driven, post-good-movie fantasies about needing to disappear after being framed for a murder you didn't commit. (OK, maybe that's just me?)
The Bar: Marshside Mama’s, Daufuskie Island, was named one of Travel & Leisure's Best Beach Bars.
"The Scene: 'Our bar is like Canterbury Tales; there’s a little bit of everything,' says bartender Tyler Gerow of the honky-tonk Marshside Mama’s. Owner Beth Shipman cooks up mouthwatering gumbo, shrimp, and grits, and there’s always the freshest fish because fishermen pull up to the dock to drop off the catch of the day. Even though it’s only a 45-minute ferry ride from Hilton Head, the ferry doesn’t always run, so the crowd is mostly local boaters. They rock out to live bands on weekends and follow the lead of owner Beth, who’s known to yell out, 'No whining, just dance.' Signature Drink: Marshside Mama’s Rum Fruity: four different types of rum mixed with fruit juices, $8." [Travel & Leisure]
Charleston, SC:
The Course: "Wild Dunes Resort opened the Links course in 1980, and Tom Fazio's first major solo design set tongues wagging and tee sheets ablaze, thanks to a rolling landscape draped with marshes, ancient oaks and scrub-covered dunes that Fazio called "an architect's dream." Its par-5 18th hole, the Atlantic hard by the left edge, quickly became one of the most-photographed in golf. It's been restored after some serious hurricane damage a few years ago, and is still a Must Play." [Golf Magazine's Travelin' Joe]
The Bar: The Windjammer (www.the-windjammer.com, Isle Of Palms) is such an experience that Esquire named it to their list of the Best Bars In America. "You haven’t truly experienced this oceanfront dive until you’ve been there on a summer Sunday afternoon -- when you’ve walked in from the beach, up the back steps, past the nonstop volleyball tournaments and the band on the deck stage. There’s a moment -- right at the door -- when you go completely blind, your sun-scorched retinas failing to immediately adjust to the dark of the bar. And all at once it comes clear -- the Corona bottles, the leathery old men shooting pool, the most beautiful women you’ve ever seen, wet-haired and bikinied: a tada! moment that all great entrances deserve."
The Windjammer's bikini contest
Kiawah Island, SC:
The Course: Let's face it kids; beachfront property ain't cheap, so sometimes you gotta dip into the savings account for great beachfront golf. Kiawah Island GR is like a 26-mile Tommy Bahama ad, and Pete Dye's Ocean Course is the very definition of East Coast beach links. Best played barefoot and taken as a walk on the beach, briefly interrupted by some tough golf shots. Score takes a backseat to the gorgeous 360-degree Low Country and ocean vistas. The elevated fairways (suggested by Dye's wife, to give players views of the ocean over the dunes) are closely flanked by waste areas, dunes, and marsh, largely leaving you only 3 types of lies: short grass, sand, or lost. Hitting those raised fairways is key, with windswept, angled tee carries from the Blues. The front is a unique, well-done marshland prelude to the more memorable seaside back, which features ocean winds and cart paths winding through dune complexes. The par-3 17th is an all-you-got knee-knocker 3-wood over water, just off the beach.
The Bar: What could make the pairing of the best oceanfront course on the East Coast and a beach bar even better? When the beach bar is the 19th hole. Golf Digest's Matty G. says, "From my favorite hole [at Kiawah's Ocean Course]-- the 19th -- I ordered a dirty martini on the rocks with blue-cheese olives, and I took a seat overlooking the 18th green, where only minutes before I had hooked, sliced, chunked and yipped my way to a bogey. In the Southern comfort of the Ryder Cup Bar in one of my favorite clubhouses in golf, the three-club wind was no longer a factor. I had a clear view of the Atlantic Ocean, the benefit of a red sunset, a plate of the crispy shrimp appetizer, a stiff drink and some stories to tell." Golf Magazine's Travelin' Joe says, "This stunner concocts the best mojito in the business."
Savannah, GA:
The Course: "I think you'll warm to the Wilmington Island Golf Club (912-897-1612, www.wilmingtonislandclub.com) a 1927 Donald Ross design that's dotted with mature pines and live oaks and goes for just $69, which includes cart and range balls. It's open to outside play all day Tuesday-Friday and after 12:30 p.m. on the weekend." [Golf Magazine's Travelin' Joe]
The Bar: I couldn't go through all this and not pass along one of Ben Affleck's Conde Nast recommendations. Ben says you gotta eat at North Beach Grill, Tybee Island, GA (a kitschy counter-culture community about 30 mins. east of Savannah, with a broad expanse of sand which is every bit Hilton Head's equal). He planned his whole trip around North Beach Grill's outstanding jerk chicken.
Where To Stay: AOL Travel ranked Tybee B&B Georgianne Inn (www.georgianneinn.com, circa 1921) as one of their Top 10 Best Budget Beach Hotels in America.
Sea Island, GA:
The Course: We'll go upscale again at this posh golf-centric resort. Sea Island GR's Seaside course is a trophy round at a resort that reeks of a Ralph Lauren ad featuring D.L. III, who's a regular and also designed Sea Island's Retreat course. "The reason you should play Seaside last is that it's by far the best of Sea Island's three courses. The minute you finish playing Seaside, redesigned by Tom Fazio in 1999, you want to play it again, and you might not especially care about the other two anymore. That's not a knock on Plantation or Retreat, but more a compliment to Seaside. They're all good walking courses, and I recommend taking a caddie. The stories they tell about the history of the property make it a better experience." [Golf Digest]
The Bar: While not a beach bar in the sand-between-your-toes sense, the golfer in you will love Sea Island's waterfront Oak Room Bar, patterned after NYC's famous Oak Bar. Named to Golf Digest's 2008 50 Best 19th Holes list. "See dolphins surfacing in the bay outside the windows of the Oak Room bar at the Lodge; the mojito is the drink of choice in this dark-wood, four-sided bar, and be sure to order the black-eyed pea hummus and homemade flatbread; live music always seems to be playing, including great bagpipes at dusk."
Amelia Island, FL
The Course: Amelia Island Resort's Ocean Course (www.ameliaisland.com). "Bobby Weed's creation features 5 oceanfront holes and another 10 with lagoons or marsh wetlands in play. Pros: The sheer beauty of the ocean holes. Plus, if you're a straight hitter, length is not a demand. Cons: On almost every hole, sacrifice distance for accuracy. Leave the driver in the bag. " (T&L Golf) The resort is one of the most relaxing, genteel, and quintessentially Southern in all of golf.
The Bar: It doesn't get any more beachfront than Sandy Bottoms Beach Bar & Grill (www.sandybottomsamelia.com, Amelia Island), with tables plopped right on the sand. Order the gumbo and lobster bites for apps, and the Caribbean Mahi Mahi for dinner.
Ferdinandia Beach, FL:
The Course: Stretch your golfing dollar with a round at strong value Ferdinandia Beach GC ($39-$45, 800-646-5997). A fine example of mid-20th-century municipal minimalism with 3 nines designed between '56 and '72 by former club pros. Simple tee boxes, small greens, and deep bunkers set in an enchanted maritime forest." (T&L Golf)
The Bar: Sliders Seaside Grill (www.slidersseaside.com, Ferdinandia Beach) is just over some small dunes from the beach, with outdoor tables next to a kiddie playground shaded by palms. Go for the crab cakes and a frothy blender drink.
St. Augustine/Daytona Beach, FL:
The Courses: Hammock Beach (www.hammockbeach.com, Palm Coast). Per T&L Golf: Think Nicklaus, the first oceanfront course in Florida since 1929, a British Indies getaway, and a track like Royal Troon with better weather, and you've got Ginn Ocean Hammock (800-654-6538, $185-$205, Palm Coast). A fabulous parcel of sandy hammocks within sight and sound of the pounding surf. Using the earth from 10 manmade lakes to sculpt a prototype shoreline links, Nicklaus created a brilliant strategic test through scrub-covered dunes, oaks, and pines. Green shapes, bunker depths, and hole orientations were used to create a varied canvas that tests shot making to the max. The par-4 9th with rolling dunes framing the right side, is the real deal. St. Augustine's World Golf Village serves as a good base camp, with 2 quality courses including the only course in the world designed by Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer.
The Bars: Plan your St. Augustine golf weekend with a Monday departure so you can hit nearby Anastasia Island's Must Party, the Sunday afternoon live reggae dock party (3PM-7PM) at The Conch House Marina (www.conch-house.com). This dockside bar has a beachy/nautical aura, and sees a few hundred partiers who drive or boat here from as far away as Daytona every Sunday. You may end up in line to do body shots off a hottie. Get there early to grab a parking spot or dock slip, or stay right there at the on-site motel. Afterwards, snag one of the crow's nest tables on the water for dinner, check out the gator pen, and order the conch fritters and grilled scallops.
Also worth a mention is Hurricane Patty's of Oyster Creek Marina (69 Lewis Blvd, www.hurricanepattys.net), another St. Augustine marina bar with reportedly haunted restrooms. Order a Landshark and the Low Country boil.
South of Ocean Hammock in Daytona Beach, catch the Spring Break/Caribbean vibe of the Ocean Deck. A spring-break institution, this oceanfront spot serves fresh seafood and has live reggae.
The Ocean Deck 
Baja Beach Club (640 North Grandview Ave, 386-248-3224) in Tallahassee is another spring break hangout, but even middle-aged golfers have a good chance of seeing white-hot bartenders and bikini-clad babes. [TravelGolf.com]
Vero Beach, FL:
The Courses: Sandridge GC is Vero's municipal course, although you'd hardly guess it from the very strong layouts and conditions of the Dunes and Lakes courses. The value here is outstanding, and quite probably the best value course I've ever played. We paid $22 for a May 2010 afternoon rate for 18 strong, challenging holes on the Dunes, and found it to be in very good condition. Par-5's that require actual strategy, a semi-island green, and a memorable back 9 wound among a former sand mining ridge with plenty of water, scruffy waste areas, and cool 360 vistas. Plus, a rarity in Florida: There's no housing on either course.
The Bar: Captain Hiram's (www.hirams.com, Sebastian) is a fun waterside spot with a very Bahamian outdoor area featuring sand floors under a canopy of palm trees, and a sizeable-but-cozy indoor restaurant for those who prefer air conditioned environs. The food is OK but nothing to write home about, although the beach party atmosphere more than makes up for it. Live music weekends. Bring the bug spray for dinner and partying alfresco at night.
Palm Beach, FL:
The Course: Local PGA and Champions Tour pro Mark Calchaveccia digs PGA National. "All those courses there are good, but the Champion, where they now host the Honda, is a great course."
The Bar: The Old Key Lime House (www.oldkeylimehouse.com, Latana) has been around since 1889, and defines what a Florida waterfront bar should be. All at once it manages to be equal parts: the hurricane shutters of Old Florida, the bright colors of the palm-laden Caribbean, the open-air thatch roof vibe of a true beach bar, the dockside feel of a proper Jimmy Buffet hangout where the occasional sea plane isn't out of place, and indoors it even manages to feel like the century-plus-old joint that it is, while still having enough TV's to pass for a sports bar.
Miami, FL:
The Course: CRANDON GOLF AT KEY BISCAYNE. Per T&L Golf: The perfect antidote to pricey resort golf, this affordable municipal course lies tucked away in a lushly tropical county park on Key Biscayne. The unspoiled natural setting—replete with palm trees, white and red mangroves and a dazzling assortment of waterfowl—belies its proximity to downtown Miami, a mere fifteen-minute drive away. A number of holes offer mesmerizing views of the city skyline across Biscayne Bay. Originally opened in 1972—the work of Robert von Hagge and Bruce Devlin—Crandon Park, the name commonly used for the course, hosted a Champions Tour event for years, entertaining the likes of Chi Chi Rodriguez, Lee Trevino and Gary Player. The layout received a thorough redesign (courtesy of von Hagge) in the early nineties following Hurricane Andrew. From the championship tees, it can play as long as 7,300 yards, with a whopping 145 slope, and includes a collection of par fives ranging from 555 to 638 yards. The layout features numerous doglegs as well as tons of sand and water. But the biggest challenge may be securing a tee time, as reservations are taken only five days in advance and discounts for Dade County residents make the course extremely popular.
The Bars: Blow the cash you saved playing Crandon Park instead of Doral's Blue Monster on a trip to the quintessential high-end beach bar in the quintessential high-end beach town: Nikki Beach (South Beach, www.nikkibeach.com/miami). This is the model for every high-end beach/pool bar in the world. Puffy white linen beach chase lounges and umbrellas, stylish cabanas for rent, VIP bottle service, swaying palms, gourmet seafood, and the best champagnes among beach-chic fashionistas. At night, Club Nikki features fresh-spun music and live entertainment by dancers, percussionists and aerial performers. You're drinking: Moleca Caipirinhas (Moleca Gold Cachaça, lime and sugar). It's worth blowing half-a-paycheck for the eye candy and one little taste of the good life.
If you can't swing the freight for an afternoon/evening at Nikki Beach, head all the way to the other end of the spectrum at Esquire fave Jimbo's (Duck Lake Road, Virginia Key; 305-361-7026). "Read the brochures and you'd think Miami has a mineral purity to it: gold beaches, platinum towers, quartz hotels, turquoise seas. Bull. The earthy funk of mildew and swamp, the acetylene heat of the subtropical sun, the rifle cracks of thunderstorms and the thundercracks of rifles: That's Miami. Mineral? Nah: animal. There are iguanas in the trees. Alligators in the swimming pools. It's not a city; it's a hallucination. But the hallucination has faded. Maybe it's a surplus of seriousness, maybe a lack of imagination, but these days only a chemical boost can bring the Technicolor dreamworld flooding back. Thank God, then, for Jimbo's. Tucked among mangrove trees beside a lagoon on an island in the middle of Biscayne Bay, it's not just in Miami but of it. Shrimp boats pull in at the dock. Herons poke around the garbage bins. Locals set up grills out front. And in the shack that is the bar itself, cans of beer chill in barrels while the day's catch cures to bronzed perfection in the smoker. You're having: An icy Presidente with the smoked fish and Tabasco. Jimbo's Sure, you'll eat that fish with your fingers. But Jimbo's is quiet and friendly, and it fits the land so right, it's easy to forget that the platinum city exists at all. Sip your beer and listen. That's not the wind in the trees; it's the iguanas."
Jimbo's
Key West, FL:
The Course: Key West GC was designed by Rees Jones, and features stately palms, dense mangrove lined fairways, serene lakes, and undulating muti-tiered greens. But it's the only golf course in the Keys, so beware of long rounds and rare appearances from the drink cart.
The Bars: After the obligatory lost afternoon at Hemmingway's old hang Sloppy Joe's, downshift into a slower Key West vibe, where watching the sunset is a daily ritual rather than a momentary pause for a snapshot. For drinks at sunset, Travel Channel says hit Billy Fish. A great waterfront spot for this Key West tradition, and the house specialty frozen Rum Runner ($8) comes with a test tube shot of dark Bacardi 151.
Naples, FL:
The Courses: If you're staying at the Ritz-Carlton Naples to be stumbling distance to Sand Bar (below), then you'll know where those extra dollars for the room went when it comes time for the concierge to set up a few tee times for you. Ritz-Carlton guests get first crack at access to several legendary Naples area private clubs. First and foremost is the Golf Lodge at the Quarry (www.quarrygolfnaples.com).
This legendary private club was carved out of a watery former quarry site, and offers some of the most extreme holes in the world. The water prominent on every hole of the yardage card looks daunting, but wide fairways and big greens keep the course enjoyable. After a round, spend some time in the "golf lodge," a roomy, modern clubhouse overlooking the 18th green.
The 36-hole Tiburon Golf Club still sets the standard for resort golf in Naples. The lack of rough on Tiburon's Gold course and Black course defines a unique playground. The wall-to-wall short grass can be both a blessing and a curse. Stray shots always seem to find precarious lies in the hazards lining the fairway. Both tracks are certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuaries by Audubon International for their natural surroundings. Many players come looking to tackle the Gold course, host of the Shark Shootout, a casual silly season event for PGA Tour pros. By the time they leave, they end up loving the tougher, more strategic Black course. The Black gives you more variety of holes and different looks.
Architect Rees Jones did a bang-up job making the Naples Grande Golf Club a fun place to play. The golf course starts softly with five non-descript holes. The layout climaxes with several holes along a 30-acre lake on the back nine. The par-5 16th features a risk-reward shot off the tee, depending on the angle of the carry over the water, and on the second shot to a green perched atop rock pilings.
The Bar: Travel & Leisure named the Ritz-Carlton Naples' Sand Bar as one of their Best Beach Bars in America. "The vibe here is casual and cool. Guests saunter up from the beach to sit on a bamboo barstool beneath a tiki roof. Nurse your drink and, with any luck, a school of dolphins will swim by before long." Order the signature drink, a Naples Sunset, a nice blend of rum, peach schnapps, and tropical juices.
Fort Myers, FL
The Courses: Play the waterfront Dunes G&TC in Fort Myers Beach, designed by Mark McCumber. Bring plenty of ammo, as there's water on every hole. For the best in the area, Golf Magazine's Travelin' Joe digs Old Corkscrew (239-949-4700, www.oldcorkscrew.com). "Situated 25 miles south of Ft. Myers, the Jack Nicklaus-designed Old Corkscrew is a blur of sand, water, wetlands and pines, in an exciting, but exhausting package if you’re spraying it. Stay away from the 7,393-yard tips, (76.1/142) and you’ll enjoy. It’s $100 to play through May 31, $85 beginning June 1—and only $50 starting at 1:40 p.m."
The Bar: The Cottage Bar & Grill, Fort Myers Beach. Stumble aways coming off the back deck steps of The Cottage, and you could splash into the Gulf Of Mexico. Good food (order the bacon-wrapped shrimp), good boat drinks, and live tunes on the sand.
Anna Maria Island, FL:
The Course: Longboat Key C&R Harbourside Course ($85-$140, Sarasota, 888-237-5545, www.longboatkeyclub.com, William Byrd) has five 9s end-to-end on a bayside spit. Harbourside is the more memorable routing of Longboat Key's two courses, after a 2004 Ron Garl makeover. Peninsula greens and lovely stands of fig, pine, and palm trees abound.
The Bar: Per Florida Travel & Life Magazine, head for the laid back vibe of Sandbar (www.sandbar.groupersandwich.com). An Anna Maria Island institution with tables just off the water on the sand. Order anything that's fresh from the sea. But beware of Saturday afternoons at Sandbar... they do a big wedding and reception business here.
Tampa, FL:
The Course: Westchase GC, Tampa. Fat Guy Review: By far, the best golfing value I've ever stumbled across. For a $22 weekday twilight rate, I got 15 holes of tough golf on a well-manicured target swampland course, GPS at no extra charge (invaluable with numerous bunkers and blind swamp areas), gorgeous brand new clubhouse, cute beer cart grrls, awaterdrivingrange with floating balls, and 12 holes with nobody in front of me. Even at the $64 weekend rate, it's a much better value than most of the courses I see regularly in Philly. Nearly on same level as TPC Tampa Bay without the $136 greens fees. Routed through a development of $500K homes. Lots of water, O.B., and "Don't Hunt" swamp hazards (due to snakes and gators, but we didn't see any), and long cart bridges through the wet stuff. Bring plenty of ammo, I lost 10 here. Found this one via recommendation from the hotel valet. Highly recommended, great value.
The Bars: TampaBay.com says Tampa's best beach bar is The Undertow (3850 Gulf Blvd., St Pete Beach; 727-368-9000, www.undertowbeachbar.com). "On weekends, its seems all of Tampa descends on this St. Pete Beach favorite. With two buildings, a patio in the sand and a strange running-water moat inset in the long oval-shaped bar, it’s a delightful place to grab a run drink and some wings. Some nights there’s live reggae, some nights it’s canned. Parking is a real pain (don’t even think about parking in the lot) but it’s worth it when you get there. Beach volleyball and a respectable beer list (more than 150 bottles) add to the attraction."
They also gave a nod to Caddy's On The Beach (Treasure Island Sunset Beach), or RecreatingTampa.com digs St. Pete's Swigwam Beach Bar.
Panama City, FL:
The Course: Camp Creek GC (Panama City Beach, www.arvida.com). This semi-private Florida panhandle club is a "dunescape-with-wetlands" design, marked by large bunkers and waste areas. The front 9, routed near the Gulf Coast, is nearly treeless and linkslike. The back 9 is open but more wooded. The signature hole is #16, a long par 3 over a pond to a green nestled in a sand pine forest. Walkers welcome. Excellent practice facility." [Golf Magazine]
The Bar: For those who (still) love a college-style party, head for Club La Vela (8813 Thomas Dr, Panama City, www.clublavela.com), where Spring Break never stops. Per the Travel Channel, "Club La Vela is the largest nightclub in the U.S. It has 11 different theme rooms for partying including the Pooldeck, The Underground, The Darkroom, The Pussykat Lounge, and an area for concerts. The daytime fun starts at 10 am at The Pooldeck. The lagoon-shaped pool area holds thousands of people and is the home of the famous Ms. La Vela Bikini contest, the Wet-N-Wild Wet T-Shirt contest, and the World's Gym Male Hard body contest."
FL Panhandle:
The Course: The Lost Key GC (www.lostkey.com, Perdido Key, FL) is one of those rare resort courses that throws a relatively high degree of difficulty at you but manages to entice you back for more just by the sheer beauty of the place. The course is laid down gently on Perdido Key, between downtown Pensacola and Gulf Shores, Ala. It's a narrow, barrier island with sand dunes as white as the reflecting clouds, and it has retained that wild, barrier island feel, even as high-rise condos have risen on the increasingly developed island.
The Bars: Head for Florida/Alabama state line for the legendary Flora-Bama Lounge, a funky, rambling beach complex awash in local color, which has inspired songs from the likes of Jimmy Buffet, and was named Best U.S. Beach Bar by Playboy.
Or, Esquire digs the Helen Back Cafe (www.helenbackcafe.com , Ft. Walton Beach). "There's something particularly gratifying about boating to a bar — especially when it's high season on the Florida Panhandle. Because after a day battling the Gulf's bristly waters, the last thing you want to do is join the crowd bottlenecking into Destin Harbor for another souvenir-glass daiquiri and a popcorn-shrimp po'boy. No, you want to go to Helen Back. You want to head west to Fort Walton — fast — until you feel the jarring waves of the channel taper into the calm of the Intracoastal. After you idle into one of Helen Back's dock slips, you want to sit on the giant deck and watch the boats come in while you wrap your hands around a tall pint and eat the best pizza you've ever shoved in your sunburned face."
Gulf Shores, AL:
The Course: Kiva Dunes GC (www.kivadunes.com) is only a half-a-block from the beach, so you can smell the salt air, and the course has natural dunes, wetlands, gators, ocean winds, a good variety of holes, and a Redan par-3.
The Bars: It's hard to miss the Pink Pony Pub (www.pinkponypub.com, Gulf Shores). It's the big pink building on the sand that's hosting a raging party with live music and a great specialty drink menu.
Or head for LuLu's at Homeport (www.lulubuffet.com), on the marina in Gulf Shores. LuLu happens to be Jimmy Buffet's little sister, and this is her beach party. Hang at the outdoor bar with palm trees and sand floors, with enough plastic buckets and sand shovels to keep the little ones entertained for hours. Order the fried green tomato BLT or the shrimp basket, wash it down with the house's Crazy Sista Honey Ale or a Mo Perfect margarita, then have some Key Lime pie for dessert. This place regularly commands table waits of up to 2 hours during high season, so come during off-peak, or arrive patient and not-starving.
Where To Stay: AOL Travel ranks the Gulf Shores Hilton Garden Inn Orange Beach (www.hiltongardeninn.hilton.com) as one of their Top 10 Best Budget Beach Hotels in America, plus they have a tiki bar at the beachside pool.