Brackenridge Park Golf Course
Just outside San Antonio, TX
The historical importance of Brackenridge Park, an early A. W. Tillinghast design outside San Antonio, is hard to dispute. When it opened in 1916, it became the state’s first public eighteen; later, it became the first inductee into the Texas Golf Hall of Fame. When it was host of the Texas Open, from 1922 to 1959, legends named Hagen, Hogan, Nelson and Snead all won titles there.
The years bring ravages as well as glory, of course, and Brackenridge Park addressed them in 2008 with a $7.5 million makeover. Texas-based architect John Colligan relied on a copy of the original blueprints to reinstate the course’s Tillinghast look. Newly enlarged greens feature squared-off corners and significant internal contour. In order to re-create vintage strategies, Colligan added groupings of deep, Tillie-inspired bunkers across fairways and around greens.
The construction of a highway in the 1960s forced much of Brackenridge Park’s back nine to be condensed and rerouted, but Colligan worked to recover as much of the original routing as he could—six of the original holes are now back in play. He also restored several dilapidated stone footbridges crossing the San Antonio River. A narrow serpentine pond, created to replicate a former tributary, cuts in front of the new greens at ten, seventeen and eighteen.
The course was stretched to 6,500 yards, but Brackenridge Park still makes for a gentle stroll—just the way Tillinghast wanted it.
Best Bar Nearby: Travel Channel recommends Far West Rodeo Bar, complete with a huge dance floor for two-steppin' and line dancin', the obilgatory mechanical bull, and a real-live rodeo ring right in the bar! Up to 3,000 cowpokes visit here on any given weekend. Golf Digest says break a leg to get to Liberty Bar (210-227-1187). Legend has it the Liberty was once a brothel, but it's now a cigar-friendly tavern where the cooks make everything from scratch. If the walls begin to look plumb, you've been there too long. OR, Swig (210-476-0005) is THE martini and cigar bar on the Riverwalk, directly beneath Howl At The Moon (210-212-4695), which should require no explanation. Golf Magazine likes Carlsbad Tavern and Casbeer's Center Bar & Grill for good burgers and fresh jazz, blues, and roots music (whatever that is). OR, hit Laboratory Brewing Company for cervezas, tamales, and tunes. Try Gruene Hall for well-known TX acts. Check local alternative weekly paper The Current or www.SanAntonioCVB.com for who's playing where when.
Where To Grub: Golf Digest says head for the San Antone Riverwalk, the heart of a downtown on the come, and a great place to relax at a cafe. The Riverwalk's best eatery is Boudro's (210-224-8484), or try Zinc (210-224-2900), a classy wine bar owned by the same folks. For Mexican, hit Mi Tierra (210-225-1262) on Market Square, near San Antone's best art gallery, Galeria Ortiz. OR, try the chimichangas at Tomatillos. Golf Magazine likes the upscale El Mirador (yo quiero lobster tacos); the earthier La Calesa for interior-Mex; or local fave Los Barrios. Tired of the Tex-Mex theme? For fine Northern Italian, Golf Magazine recommends Aldino; Koi Kawa for sushi; creative Pacific Rim delights at Craig's Saute & Grill; Cantonese at Gin's; or for dressy French, splurge at Le Reve. Travel Channel loves the BBQ at Rudy's in Leon (http://www.rudys.com/index.html), advertising the worst BBQ in TX. Served sauceless to prove how tender the meat is, sauce choice is up to you. Their tangy/spicy sauce is one of Fat Guy's personal favorites. Take a couple bottles of Rudy's famed dry rub and sauce home for grillin'. About 40 miles NE of San Antone is Kreuz Market in Lockhart, TX, one of the first BBQ stands in the country, serving simple dry-rubbed BBQ seasoned only with salt & pepper, and the only side is bread. Food Network says the best breakfast tacos in America, made from all fresh ingredients (including made-to-order flour and corn tortillas) is at Taco Taco Cafe.
Further Diversions: Remember The Alamo, which is where "Don't mess with Texas" got it's venom. Brought the kids? Travel Channel rated New Braunfeld,TX's Schlitterbahn water park as America's best in 2006. A German castle theme and a roller-coaster-like raft slide make this a hot place to cool off. Or hit Six Flags or SeaWorld.
Where To Stay: Westin La Cantera Resort (210-558-6500) has stay-n-play golf packages. Hit breakfast at Brannon's. OR, Travel Channel loves Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort (800-233-1234, www.sanantonio.hyatt.com), which also has stay-n-play packages. Check out "Texas upscale" dining at the on-site Antlers, or relax at the Windflower Spa. Kids can play in a 4 acre water complex complete with waterfalls, sandy beach, and lazy river, or parents can get some quality time after dropping off the little ones at Camp Hill Country. Midscalers should head for chain hotels such as La Quinta or Hampton Inn near Six Flags.